Looking for advice

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mewk61

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I am looking for advice on what to do to get my 75 Dart /6 to run. I have a dead spot that I just can't fix. I have moved the timing around to see if it changes, no change.I have pulled the carburetor apart several times trying to check for a dirty jet or anything that seems to keep this car from running right. I did find a bad piece of rubber on the accelerator pump which must have happened when I put it back together after putting the rebuild kit inside. I cleaned it out and I ordered a new kit and thought that would fix the problem. No dice. I am getting a squirt of fuel while looking down the carb, but I don't think it is very strong. I am to the point of frustration. My son went as far as purchasing a brand new 350 CFM and two to one adapter on his own. He came home and said "Now lets get this thing running". Spending $350 of his own money. Unfortunately, they gave him the wrong adapter and we couldn't try it. I told him we will get a two barrel intake and use his new carb. Am I making the right decision? Will I have a hard time finding the linkage?
I want to get this car on the road as this was a father/son project and we are at the last stage to have him driving it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
A flat spot when you pull out ? Stumble from Idle ? or dead when you are moving and go for power ? It just may be the float setting is too low. I went with factory spec on my 63 Valiant and it would stumble, and also during acceleration in a turn. Set the float higher and all was right. Just a thought..
 
It is a flat spot from stop to start moving. Once it gets moving, it runs fine.
 
If the accelerator pump was leather and you did not soak it in oil or ATF, that could be your problem. You should have a STRONG stream of fuel from the time you move the throttle. Also, that pump linkage can be bent to adjust it. For instance, if you are able to open the throttle and there is no fuel at first, bend the rod so that you get a squirt of fuel as soon as you move the throttle. Also too, the linkage should be in the pump arm hole closest to the carburetor, if there is more than one hole.
 
Darter6 said:
A flat spot when you pull out ? Stumble from Idle ? or dead when you are moving and go for power ? It just may be the float setting is too low. I went with factory spec on my 63 Valiant and it would stumble, and also during acceleration in a turn. Set the float higher and all was right. Just a thought..
Click to expand...
2x... a low float will do just that. Good suggestion.

Make sure any check ball in the accelerator pump inlet is seating well and is the right size.....it needs to seat to close off the fuel inlet and let the accel pump push the fuel out and not just flow back into the bowl. Look at the Mikes Carburator site and the part 2 video on rebuilding/checking a Holley 1920 to get the principle.
 
Thanks, I will try these suggestions. I did not soak the accelerator pump in anything. The linkage is on the top slot of the carb and something seems not right. I believe it is correct, but I will watch the video to ensure I have it right. The float might be something I need to look at also.
Thanks for the help.
 
nm9stheham said:
2x... a low float will do just that. Good suggestion.

Make sure any check ball in the accelerator pump inlet is seating well and is the right size.....it needs to seat to close off the fuel inlet and let the accel pump push the fuel out and not just flow back into the bowl. Look at the Mikes Carburator site and the part 2 video on rebuilding/checking a Holley 1920 to get the principle.
Click to expand...

Funny you bring up Mike's Carburetor. Lemmie tell you. That guy is straight up. I ordered a Thermoquad electric choke housing from him. It was showing in stock on his site. Couple days later he emails me saying he actually did not have it and refunded my money and apologize profusely. Then a few more days later, I get another email saying he found it and he was sending it on. He refused payment saying that it was his mistake and he should have had it in the right place to begin with and to please use him again in the future. ........and I have and will continue to.
 
^^ That is a pretty good tale RRR. His videos seems like he is just an old school guy who likes to do what he does.....carbs!
 
mewk61 said:
Thanks, I will try these suggestions. I did not soak the accelerator pump in anything. The linkage is on the top slot of the carb and something seems not right. I believe it is correct, but I will watch the video to ensure I have it right. The float might be something I need to look at also.
Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
Just to note, if the accel pump plunger is rubber, don't soak it; that's not needed.
 
Thanks, it is rubber.
I see there are brass replacement floats that are recommended to change in my carb. I checked my float for leaks prior to installation by submersing in fuel and found no problems. What your opinion on this?
 
Just a side note/idea. My car does the same thing cause my economizer/power valve cover is warped creating a vaccum leak.

Also if still wanna do the two barrel, I got a spare intake I could let go but shipping my be costly.
 
Most people seem to prefer the brass. The plastic floats can get 'gaslogged' with gas in the material and not really have much loose gas inside or show any sign of a leak. They will be heavy and the gas level in the bowl will be higher. However, your symtoms are the reverse of a heavy float. If you ar not getting carb flooding, and gas leakage, I would be inclined to not be looking at the float per se; just setting the float level higher to see if it helps.

And examine the check ball operation for the accel pump......just a bit of dirt in the check ball seat or a small groove there will hamper the accel pump operation.
 
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