Looking into doing my first paint job next year.

[timk225]

I'm in the research stage of painting my 1973 Duster next year. I've done all sorts of mechanical work on my old Mopars over the years, but nearly nothing for paint and body. So it's all new to me.

The body has a few small rust spots, but overall is a very solid car. I know someone who could do a great job and I've seen his metal fabrication work, but he won't be cheap.

This will be no show car, just a half decent driver quality paint job. The phrase to keep in mind is "ALMOST AS GOOD AND A WHOLE LOT CHEAPER".

Here's what I have figured out so far for what I think I want to do.

Color - 1971 EL5 Butterscotch. Single stage solid enamel. I don't want any kind of base / clear, and it's not a factory metallic color. I don't know if urethane would be easier for a first timer to spray.

I could pay for a real paint job, but first of all, I don't want to, and second, that's not what this car is for, plus I don't want to have to worry too much about the paint getting marked up or keyed on a $20,000 paint and body job.

I've been watching some videos on the subject, and I have a fair idea of what needs to be done. But actually doing it is another thing. A few metal patches need made and welded in. Are quarter panel patch panels made for a '73-'76 Duster? I don't want to order a full quarter panel and cut it up.

Any suggestions on a brand and type of paint? I can get hold of a stand up air compressor, add a filter dryer, and get the best paint spray gun on the shelf at Harbor Freight, or ebay used.

Need to figure lots of stuff out.

 

[Woods74]

#1 Time

On average, a decent paint job takes 1500 hours of intensive labor. There is hell of a lot that goes into executing a paint job and requires many hours of study, experimentation and navigating dangerous situations. Your passion, drive, budget for tools and consumables need to be on point or your frustration will take the wheel. It's fun but it takes A LOT of dedication, tireless hours putting it on and taking it off. Sanding till your extremities are numb all the time.

#2 Tools

https://www.ebay.com/itm/295051275740?_skw=Astro+Pneumatic+AST+888S
https://www.ebay.com/itm/291154498172?_skw=DA+sander

https://www.ebay.com/itm/336194584879?_skw=UPOL+body+filler
https://www.ebay.com/itm/364674391104?_skw=UPOL+2253
https://www.ebay.com/itm/177545454434?_skw=UPOL+Glazing

https://www.amazon.com/KQCXIK-Premium-Sanding-Anti-Clogging-Sandpaper
https://www.amazon.com/Multitool-Oscillating-Attachments-Sandpaper-Woodworking
https://www.amazon.com/3M-77-10-75-Scotch-Multipurpose-Adhesive


Sandpaper rolls:

36 Grit
80 Grit
120 Grit
180 Grit
320 Grit
400 Grit
600 Grit (Metallic basecoats)


https://www.harborfreight.com/4-78-in-soft-rubber-sanding-block-69574.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/17-inch-auto-body-hand-sander-1727.html
https://www.amazon.com/Preppin-Weapon-Sanding-Block-Blue


#3 Safety

This **** WILL kill you quick if you don't respect it! The ingredients in automotive 2k primer, and paint is highly toxic and is to be treated as radioactive. It gets into your blood through your eyes, skin and obviously lungs like a sponge within seconds of exposure. If you smell the paint, you've already over exposed for the session.

Internal organ inflammation is a consequence leading to cancer and other long term nasty health issues. Stay hydrated constantly when spraying and sanding. Limit exposure whenever possible, take breaks often.

A Tyvek suit, head sock, black heavy nitrile gloves taped, full leather boots and a full face fresh air respirator is mandatory.

Half face with organic filters, t-shirt, shorts and flip flops is only OK for sanding.

#4 Prep Protection

Protection is vital, discover the backmasking technique for the entire car, with skirts below. Sanding and polishing overspray isn't that cool. When your installing over or near use towels, rags, and blankets or get good at touch-ups and blends.

#5 Enviroment

Paint outside early in the morning is best, with a breeze, focus panel by panel is ideal to create quality and not get overwhelmed. I have zero bugs or debris in paint this way. Flawless.
Seal all doors and windows in the house and keep the animals and neighbors away.
Paint when ambient temps are above 50F and below 90F with 85% or less Relative Humidity. Get a gauge don't guess.
In a shop, use cross draft ventilation with as much open as possible working towards the fans in 1 long sweep, walking back and forth the entire work with 50% overlap like a robot.

#6 Paint

Good product that doesn't cost a fortune: Automotive Art Motocryl 50 Line, Wanda and SPI. Look into Marine paint as well.

#7 Youtube university



The OG's who know and share:

https://www.youtube.com/@diyautoschool
https://www.youtube.com/@OldBondoBilly


Then when you think you've put enough on and sanded enough off, lay down a couple wet 'teacher' coats and chill back for awhile.

Enjoy, observe, satisfy. Let your appetite and bank account rejuvenate.


This should get you started. Feel free to message me if you have questions.

 

[Kendog 170]

I would never paint outside but you need good ventilation. Filters on one side and a fan in a window on the other. You could do your bodywork and final sand and bring it to Macco. Probably pay less than a $1000.
This was my filter set up.

 

[andysauto1]

Single stage in the color you picked will be tuff for a first timer. Might want to consider base clear. Light colored metallics are not very forgiving in single stage

 

[Kendog 170]

Light colored metallics are not very forgiving in single stage

I don't think there's metallic in Butterscotch. I do like base clear better. My ragtop is single stage PPG and still fades every year. My hardtop is BC/CC and is holding up much better. Both my rides live outside.

 

[timk225]

Eeeehhhh.... maybe I'll just get the expensive guy to do it. It'll cost, but I know he knows his stuff. I understand how the chemicals are dangerous and protective equipment is needed, but it doesn't make sense to buy all this stuff for one car. Not a good financial investment. I'll let someone do the spraying who already has the gear.

On my Duster, aside from some small patches in the quarters, the roof needs the most work. Whoever had this car before me stored it for 20+ years with a poor car cover or something, so the roof paint is shot, there's a lot of surface rust and pitting there now. I was watching this video this morning, and it seemed to have good ideas for the rust repair prep on the roof in my case: .

Different things I've seen call it by different names, but as near as I can tell, it all comes down to phosphoric acid, then neutralize and epoxy prime.

Some have said sand the car and take it to Maaco. I don't think there are any in the Pittsburgh area anymore, plus I had a bad experience with one of those places in the late 90s. They painted a vehicle for me, and the color coat had bubbles all popped out through the paint on one door and the roof, and they had the nerve to ask me to pay to fix THEIR MISTAKES! I said no and they ended up fixing THEIR MISTAKES for free, even then I knew they didn't let the previous coat evaporate fully before painting the color coat. So I tend to look at all cheap paint places as an extreme rip off.

From what I've seen with doing some sanding and painting on the interior front floor in the car, Eastwood might have enough of what I need to get the roof rust stopped, then maybe spray and sand several coats to fill the dips and get it a little smoother.

I've got a bunch of cash in crypto investments right now (buy SUI while the price is low, $1.50 or less like it is now, look at its history over the past year on coinmarketcap.com) and let it ride to profits when interest rates get dropped next summer. That alone could cover the entire cost for me. Although just because I'll have the profits doesn't mean I want to spend it all on one paint job. I'll talk to some people and see what can be done. Meanwhile, I am open to more suggestions here.