I thought you might have the "good gas" at the pump out there. 8 bucks a gallon?
Love and HATRED of the 225 Slant Six
- Thread starter MonkeyDunk
- Start date
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Yup. That's about right where it is. It is good. 112 octane leaded. It's purple. Might even be 114. I'll ride down that way next time we're out.
Like the good ol' Unocal days... Couldn't gat a match within three feet of that S***.
You ain't kiddin. Used to be like that with regular a long time ago.
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
Put me in the category of "I don't hate the slant, I just have no use for them". I've owned one (not an original slant car) and it sort of ran fine, but just not where I live in this hobby...This replaced it...
Nice swap. Is the A/C compressor an upgrade?
Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
Yep, I always weld the top part of the heat riser shut then split the manifold in half to have dual outlets (easier to install and remove) then make sure rear portion with the heat riser doesn’t touch the bottom of the intake.
Then intake will always be warm just from having the exhaust and intake ports right next to each other regardless.
Then intake will always be warm just from having the exhaust and intake ports right next to each other regardless.
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
Aftermarket (Classic Auto Air - don't really recommend, but it's what I bought) AC in a non-AC convertible. Almost ready to finally finish the paint. We tried several weeks ago, but the paint turned out to be contaminated so sanding it back down. Also, not a real Formula S, but the badges have been there since before I first saw the car in 1983. Last pic from 1985. We bought it in 2006.
Beautiful car!!!
Vapor lock. Move the fuel line from pump over the valve cover.
Heat rise, get rid of it, weld the little hold shut. No one will hear it ticking and think bad valve?
Vapor lock. Move the fuel line from pump over the valve cover.
Heat rise, get rid of it, weld the little hold shut. No one will hear it ticking and think bad valve?
JC71340
Well-Known Member
Great car! I have had a couple of slanty's as daily drivers. No need for heat riser valves if the vehicle is not operated in cold weather...period.
dr dodge
Well-Known Member
I drove my dart for years in Houston traffic. I insulated the metal line, that helped, but
if I got stuck in stop n go, up would go engine temp, and the vapor lock would start. I'd get off the road, open the hood, and get hit in the face with a wall of heat. almost instantly car would back to normal, close the hood (and try this again...lol)
I need to put a shroud on it, and that is why I plan on making a 1/2 scale shaker scoop to get fresh air in it,
and somehow "vent" the hood artistically. the plan is to drive this car all over to deliver parts when I start to sell stuff off.
What engine?
jpl572103
Well-Known Member
I'm hating the clifford header closeness to torsion bar and Z bar when trying to remove the transmissioin. Wonder how much of a HP loss if I went to stock manifold. Prob 10.
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