Low dollar torque strap

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Speaking of torque straps.....

Check out what I found today. :banghead:

I guess my strap (chain) didn't work. I left a little slack in the chain and it did nothing, so what a few have been saying about having no slack seems to be true. I'm going to try using a solid link next to see what that does.

Good thing they're not too hard to replace, but dang, this is broken mount #3 in ~3 months. :wack:
Brokenmotormount.jpg
 
UOP said:
Check out what I found today. :banghead:

I guess my strap (chain) didn't work. I left a little slack in the chain and it did nothing, so what a few have been saying about having no slack seems to be true. I'm going to try using a solid link next to see what that does.

Good thing they're not too hard to replace, but dang, this is broken mount #3 in ~3 months. :wack:
Brokenmotormount.jpg
Click to expand...

That is strange . How much torque and HP you make ? I don't think Ive had mounts break so quickly or often . Personally after seeing yours I'm going for the poly locks .
Just can't believe how often you break those mounts ! Either you have a total torque monster or I have good luck ,
Could it be they are really old stock and the rubber has broken down ?
 
jomoper said:
while i had the engine sitting on the k member i noticed a pre drilled hole in the motor mount. Since it pretty much lines up with the mounting ear on the block i got an idea to make a cheap torque strap with an eye bolt and a longer bolt for the motor mount. After a quick trip to the local hardware store here's what i came up with -. A longer grade 8 bolt $1.05 with a short length of tube over it (which i already had ). And a j bolt (eye bolt would not fit) for around $2.00 . I adjusted the bolt so that the engine can move about 1/8" or so before it contacts the j- bolt . I'm hoping this will preserve my engine isolators although i don't really think with my mild 360 it's going to be all that much of an issue.
Click to expand...
i use a turn buckle on mine hope it does the job and i got it very tight
 
jomoper said:
While I had the engine sitting on the K member I noticed a pre drilled hole in the motor mount. since it pretty much lines up with the mounting ear on the block I got an idea to make a cheap torque strap with an eye bolt and a longer bolt for the motor mount. After a quick trip to the local hardware store here's what I came up with -. A longer grade 8 bolt $1.05 with a short length of tube over it (which I already had ). And a J bolt (eye bolt would not fit) for around $2.00 . I adjusted the bolt so that the engine can move about 1/8" or so before it contacts the J- bolt . I'm hoping this will preserve my engine isolators although I don't really think with My mild 360 it's going to be all that much of an issue.
Click to expand...

What about taking a small rubber bushing, like ones out of leaf springs, cutting it short and putting it on the bolt that's into the engine so the eye bolt goes around the bushing, thus softening noise.
 
Question: Where are you buying your mounts? I've not had ANY motor mount from O'reilly's or Autozone for ANY car last for more than a few weeks.
 
My 360 is quite mild, 350hp/400tq, maybe. The mounts I'm using are some I had left over from when I was setting up the car, but they don't look old. I do know that I would be leary of using the poly locks with my setup but in your case they seem to be the perfect choice.

I forgot the brand but I got the mounts from Oreilly.
 
mopardude318 said:
why would you be leary with the poly locks???
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X2 the only reason I'm not using them is they kept telling me the new shipment would be in tomorrow , after 2 weeks of tomorrows I told them to cancel the mounts and send me a torque strap instead , half the price twice the peace of mind . You also only really need 1 poly lock the drivers / torque side if you can find someone to split a pair with you they do work .
 
In reference,to post 30:O reillys, A zone,Napa,all sell Anchor mounts.China made,don't like horsepower at all.
 
When I used to run a stock 340 it would break the mount the first time I stepped on it. Then I put a chain with a very slight amount of slack, maybe 1/8" or so, and that solved that problem. I run the Schumaker torque strap now and love it.
 
jomoper said:
While I had the engine sitting on the K member I noticed a pre drilled hole in the motor mount. since it pretty much lines up with the mounting ear on the block I got an idea to make a cheap torque strap with an eye bolt and a longer bolt for the motor mount. After a quick trip to the local hardware store here's what I came up with -. A longer grade 8 bolt $1.05 with a short length of tube over it (which I already had ). And a J bolt (eye bolt would not fit) for around $2.00 . I adjusted the bolt so that the engine can move about 1/8" or so before it contacts the J- bolt . I'm hoping this will preserve my engine isolators although I don't really think with My mild 360 it's going to be all that much of an issue.
Click to expand...
I would reverse the j bolts direction , have the open side facing in towards the water pump , not towards the steering box , or is that bassackwards ?
 
Moroso solids....,my gear driven 451, solid lifters, big headers....didnt matter if the frame rattled, it was your teeth that would bug you. calmed down on the road through.
 
mopardude318 said:
why would you be leary with the poly locks???
Click to expand...

I'm curious too?? I run the Poly locks on my Cuda with a very torquey 408 and they work great. My old 360 was pretty mild but it'd snap biscuit mounts left and right. The Poly locks solved that issue and are as quiet and smooth as a stock biscuit mount.
 
UOP said:
My 360 is quite mild, 350hp/400tq, maybe.
Click to expand...

That car must be twisting like a bastard. Have you done any bracing/chassis mods?

To the OP, I believe the most effective and inexpensive route would include a heim joint attaching to the motor (the schumacher/mancini straps have them). Mancini's torque strap is nice, but could be made for $20-25. Here's a pic I found on a member's thread, but it only shows the upper strap with the heim.

You can make this at home with some threaded rod to screw the heim joint in. Because the heim rotates freely within the joint, you can dial in your slack within a milimeter if you want.
 

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UOP said:
Speaking of torque straps.....

Check out what I found today. :banghead:

I guess my strap (chain) didn't work. I left a little slack in the chain and it did nothing, so what a few have been saying about having no slack seems to be true. I'm going to try using a solid link next to see what that does.

Good thing they're not too hard to replace, but dang, this is broken mount #3 in ~3 months. :wack:
Brokenmotormount.jpg
Click to expand...

Run a solid mount on the drivers side and throw those in the trash!
 
Mad Dart said:
Run a solid mount on the drivers side and throw those in the trash!
Click to expand...

Old thread. I'm still using cheap Oreilly mounts, but I added a solid link similar to the Shumacher strap that you guys can get. So far so good.

photobucket-37005-1361576003307_zps8815b9e3.jpg
 
Back in the day, chebby had a problem with broken motor mounts allowing the engine to torque over and pull the throttle to wide open. They issued a 3/16" cable and a clamp as the recall solution. I think this can still be done for less than $10.00 if galvanized cable and clamps are used. It would be pricier if stainless steel is used. Big box hdw stores or farm supply stores should have the supplies.

Install like chain shown in photos of other posts. Won't rattle like chain, especially if cable run through rubber tubing (extra $s).
 
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