dusterglenn
Well-Known Member
What's the minimum gap for the lower control arm bump stops?
Lower control arm bump stops
- Thread starter dusterglenn
- Start date
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Really depends on what torsion bars you have. If they're stock, you should probably use the process for setting ride height in the manual. If they're not, it depends on the wheel rate of the torsion bars you're using.
Also depends on the bumpstops. The factory "progressive" bumpstops can be a little closer, but if you've gone to poly button style stops you don't want to be contacting those all the time.
You can also check out this thread to see where some other folks are at for their settings...
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=240698&highlight=bump+stop
dusterglenn
Well-Known Member
I've just installed PST 1.030" bars, and have the stock bump stops. Currently have about a 1/2" gap with the stance just about where I want it.
BigBlockMopar
BigBlockMember
.5" is very usable if you don't encounter a lot of (serious) speedbumps during your trips.
Given the position of the bumpstop on the LCA, a .5" play at the bumper means you have say, 2.5" possible movement at the wheel (just guestimating a bit here).
Given the position of the bumpstop on the LCA, a .5" play at the bumper means you have say, 2.5" possible movement at the wheel (just guestimating a bit here).
With the 1.03" bars and the stock bump stops you should be pretty good at a 1/2" or so.
If you do find that you're contacting the stock bumps stops more than you'd like you can replace them with poly "button" style bump stops, like these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-9121g/overview/
Now, the factory bump stops are progressive, and that was a designed way to increase the effective wheel rate as the suspension traveled close to the frame. Ie, in stock form the car uses the bump stops as part of its suspension, not just to keep things from crashing into each other metal on metal.
BUT, upgrading the torsion bars increases the wheel rate, and since modern shocks etc are capable of dealing with the higher rates, you don't necessarily need the progressive aspect of the bump stops. The larger the torsion bars get, the less that's necessary. So, you can eliminate the stock bump stops and replace them with poly's, just keep in mind that you won't want to be hitting the poly bump stops nearly as frequently as you might have been hitting the factory bump stops because they will not progressively add wheel rate like the stockers, they're just there to keep things from going metal on metal.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Riding on the factory bumpstops in the corners, on the street, with the 1.03s, isnt all that bad; until you find the curb. Its also hard on tire life. Bottoming out crashing over speed bumps at the local diner; not nearly as much fun. A half an inch with OEMs should be lots. I use the distance from the lowest point of the K-frame to flat earth as my measuring stick. With 235/60-14s, 5.75 +/-.25 seems to work well.
BigBlockMopar
BigBlockMember
It's one of the reasons I want bigger torsion bars.
With my car's current stance, Hotchkis adj. shocks and 1" bars, the (trimmed) bumpstops still get quite a workout at times, especially when you encounter about 20 to 40 speedbumps everyday like me.
With my car's current stance, Hotchkis adj. shocks and 1" bars, the (trimmed) bumpstops still get quite a workout at times, especially when you encounter about 20 to 40 speedbumps everyday like me.
Keep in mind that putting larger bars will help keep you off the bump stops, but the reduced travel means those forces are going to be transferred to the chassis, and you!
BigBlockMopar
BigBlockMember
I can take the force! 
I know the chassis will get stressed more and I plan to add reinforcements accordingly.
The entire transmission crossmember is already welded to the floorboards and I will also weld the current subframe connectors to the floorboards as well.
In addition to that I plan to install torqueboxes too.
If I get a chance I want to reinforce the front radiator cross bar too. As well as the rear most left to right frame 'connector' just behind the rear bumper.
I know the chassis will get stressed more and I plan to add reinforcements accordingly.
The entire transmission crossmember is already welded to the floorboards and I will also weld the current subframe connectors to the floorboards as well.
In addition to that I plan to install torqueboxes too.
If I get a chance I want to reinforce the front radiator cross bar too. As well as the rear most left to right frame 'connector' just behind the rear bumper.
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