Lunati Voodoo 383

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xmerlinx

xmerlinx

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Would a Lunati Voodoo 10230703LUN (Formally 60303) be too much for a stock 383? I already own it.

SPECS: Hydraulic Flat Tappet. TDuration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 226/234; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .494/.513; LSA/ICL: 110/106; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd; RPM Range: 1800-6200

It’s going in a 73 Duster with a 3.91 and automatic. I have a performer RPM, Schumacher headers, mounts and 440 source stealth heads. The 383 came out of a low-mile Dodge Monaco 2 door. It’s an old project I’m trying to revive… Not trying to race it.

I did research, but results are all over the map. I thought one of you folks may have first hand experience?
Any advice is appreciated.. Thanks!
 
I like that cam for a 383. It will have some lope, but the duration is moderate, and you have good heads and gear, and a not- too-heavy car weight. A 3000-3500 converter will really help.
If you had 2.76s, not so much.
No first hand tho. Other than a pure stocker, my cams are always bigger than that.
 
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I think that would be a nice cam for a 383 with a little compression, and some stall in the converter. The 3.91's will help.
I generally go for a little less stall on the street but a good 3000 stall would be nice.
 
33IMP said:
I like that cam for a 383. It will have some lope, but the duration is moderate, and you have good heads and gear, and a not- too-heavy car weight. A 3000-3500 converter will really help.
If you had 2.76s, not so much.
No first hand tho. Other than a pure stocker, my cams are always bigger than that.
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Glad to hear there is no need to buy another cam..
 
496 polara said:
I think that would be a nice cam for a 383 with a little compression, and some stall in the converter. The 3.91's will help.
I generally go for a little less stall on the street but a good 3000 stall would be nice.'
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Yeah, a 3000 stall seems to be magic number for this cam in other threads.
 
I don’t know where a piston sits exactly on the ‘69 383 engines. Once you get the parts swapping, take the time to measure where the piston sits in the bore. Also the head gasket dimensions and head cc amount to calculate your ratio.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I don’t know where a piston sits exactly on the ‘69 383 engines. Once you get the parts swapping, take the time to measure where the piston sits in the bore. Also the head gasket dimensions and head cc amount to calculate your ratio.
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Will do... But if I find the compression is too low should I bail on that cam?
 
Just be aware, Mopar tended to rate their compression ratios a bit higher than they really were. As Rumble said, actual measurements of YOUR stuff is important. I do believe the stealth heads are a bit smaller in the chamber than the 906s that would be (i think) on a 69 383, so that should help with c.r.
High 8s, low 9s, c.r., I would run that cam. 9.5 would be perfect.
 
I ran a mp 474 cam in a bone stock bottom end 73 400 in a charger in highschool and stock converter with 2.90 something gears .
Just saying that cam had a bit more duration than the ops choice. I did have to double foot the car a bit but it really liked it when I switched over to the 3.92 gears 8.25 rear end.
69 383 also has just a bit over 9 to 1 as a standard non HP.
To sum up my garbage...I like the cam for the 383 .
 
Naw that's a goodun for a 383. I'd like a tight 3800-4200 better, because the short stroke will want to rev. As long as it's a tight one, it'll idle around town like a stock converter.
 
thats the same cam I chose for my 1966 383 build .still working on it slowly.
 
I wouldn't worry about the compression ratio too much. Yes I know it's ideal if you had a zero deck, good quench, 10.5 compression etc. But the cam will behave the same regardless of the compression. It'll just be softer, everywhere. It's a small percentage per point of compression.

I'd worry more about the stall and gearing, and other supporting parts. Looks like you have a good intake and heads, and have a set of headers. Good. You have all the right ingredients for a ripper. Don't skimp on the converter, that will make or break the combo.

The gurus here can help you dial in the right converter. It's relative to the torque peak, but I'm not good enough to predict that RPM. Others here are experienced enough.

That's not a huge cam by the way.
 
I have that cam in my 383 bored over 30 with 9.5:1 comp. 727 trans and 3.91 gears and love it. Coan built me a torque converter with all the specs i gave them and for the street and is a 3000 rpm tight. This motor really does come to life right about that point.
 
Gr8polarbear said:
I have that cam in my 383 bored over 30 with 9.5:1 comp. 727 trans and 3.91 gears and love it. Coan built me a torque converter with all the specs i gave them and for the street and is a 3000 rpm tight. This motor really does come to life right about that point.
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Great to hear I'm headed in the right direction.
 
I have that cam in my 383, recommended by Lunati. .030 over, stock crank, rods, old trw flat tops, eddy heads, street dominator intake, 4.10's and at the time an old fairbanks 2,400 stall. Dart went 12.80's with a bad bog in the carb.
 
nasty68 said:
I have that cam in my 383, recommended by Lunati. .030 over, stock crank, rods, old trw flat tops, eddy heads, street dominator intake, 4.10's and at the time an old fairbanks 2,400 stall. Dart went 12.80's with a bad bog in the carb.
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To what rpm does your car pull to before you notice a lag in power? I am thinking i need to change the springs out in mine, seems to drop off to early for the cam. I dont even know what springs are in the engine, was even curious the day i bought the car last year since it has 906 heads on it.
 
Gr8polarbear said:
To what rpm does your car pull to before you notice a lag in power? I am thinking i need to change the springs out in mine, seems to drop off to early for the cam. I dont even know what springs are in the engine, was even curious the day i bought the car last year since it has 906 heads on it.
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Only had it to the track once so far and i was shifting at 6,200 and it felt like it was still pulling. I am running the stock springs that came with the Edelbrocks. The specs are close to what Lunati recommends. They told me i would be fine using those springs.
 
nasty68 said:
Only had it to the track once so far and i was shifting at 6,200 and it felt like it was still pulling. I am running the stock springs that came with the Edelbrocks. The specs are close to what Lunati recommends. They told me i would be fine using those springs.
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Are you running the rpms?
 
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