Magnum head choices for my mild build

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6-david-5

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Hey gang

I want to sanity-check my line of thinking on my 5.9 Magnum engine. I want to install this in my '65 Valiant Convertible, but I'm concerned about using the stock Magnum heads. I'm aware the stock heads have a propensity to crack between the intake & exhaust valve seats, but I have not dealt with that personally. This is what the total of this inquiry is about--what your experiences have been with Magnum heads from a 5.9, and what my best course of action would be with me in the midst of my planning stage.

I did once have a '97 Ram xcab w/a 5.2 & 46re, and drove that truck for 15 years from 84,000 miles up past 280,000! Never had the heads off, and never had overheating problems--just the typical beer-barrel intake manifold problems. For that truck, however, I collected this incredibly-low-mileage 5.9 long block that I dreamed about installing 1 day. This block was sold to me back in 2003 with having reportedly 5 MILES on it!! It was out of a wrecked 2002 3/4-ton truck, and the unpainted iron is all new-looking and bright-gray! You would think this engine was BRAND-NEW, or just a "customer-return" with how unused it looks!

As my old ram truck became fraught with needs, and life was presenting DRASTIC changes, I didn't pursue the swap with my Ram truck, and kept the engine on the stand. The truck has since been sold and is long-gone.

Fast-forward to the most recent couple of years--I now envision this motor in my Valiant. This span of time has provided the luck of hearing about the nightmares guys are having with their 5.9 Magnums in their trucks with the heads developing cracks. As I am gearing up for my '65 Valiant project, I am thinking the following:

Inner Dialog 1). "The original heads from this 5.9 motor are practically new, and they would probably be no problem for as long as I have this car--even as I contemplate keeping it indefinitely. I should go to work on the valve pockets & do some light porting, and reassemble these heads and get them ready for use."

Dialog 2). Although this 5.9 is going to be in a spirited cruiser with nothing-but-street-miles, a carb, and a reasonably mild cam (most likely less than .500" lift) with the stock valve gear, the "case studies" are out there on these heads, and preparing them for use for this car COULD have me ripping this thing back apart sometime in the future--maybe even LATER into the future when I might be less-inclined to rip this thing apart. Worse, if money was an issue later, I may be addressing issues with cylinder heads, which may or may not lay the car up for who-knows-how-long due to cost/time/life. I should probably find a buyer for these original head castings, and cap this build off with a set of EQ heads.

Dialog 2.1)............. HOWEVER, with a fully-prepped set of EQ heads, it is approaching aluminum head money! But I really wouldn't need, say, a set of Edelbrock RPM's! It would just be nice to take some weight off the front while I'm spending that kind of money. I WISH THEY MADE E-STREET heads for the Magnum!

I don't know what the cause of the cracking is on OE Magnum heads, or if them being on a car would improve their longevity. I have heard guys have driven on them cracked and they never knew! I'm looking to clear my perspective so that I can get past this rut!

Your experiences with this quandary would be greatly appreciated!

David
 
OMG, dialogue to long, thoughts all over the place, can't read any more dribble.

Magnum blocks can use the following aftermarket heads.

Iron ram/EQ
Magnum R/T (set being sold on MoPars as we speak. Other wise, rare head these days.)
Edelbrock Magnum head
W-2 or W-5 with pushrod oiling.
Any head with pushrod oiling.

Cracks in OE are a normal happening, sooner or later. You'll never know it happened unless it is a massive crack leaking oil or coolent. So do t worry about it. I ha e 275,000 on my '00 Magnum now and it runs beautiful. And probably has cracked heads. Or so the boards of people here will insist they do without actually knowing but will assume so because people post about it. There for, it must be true. After all, it is the Internet and nobody lies about anything.
 
P.S. Make a plan and stick to it.
;)
 
I have a set of EQ heads that are prepped and dressed for a flat tappet cam with a lift of no more than 525. I originally purchased these for a mild 318 build I was going to do until I said ”oohh squirrel!" And changed my mind to build a stroker. I now have a set of eddy rpms on the way and would like to recoup some of my money from the EQ's. I'll let them go cheap, if you're interested start a conversation with me and we can discuss things more
 
P.S. Make a plan and stick to it.
;)
I think rumblefish gave me the same advice early in my build..... I would be driving now and have saved a lot of money if I had listened.... Don't make my mistake lol listen to him and make a plan and don't deviate!
 
My 00 ram (bought new) currently has 240,000 on it and I'll bet the heads are cracked. I'll keep driving it for now.

Like you I have a motor for my 5.9 swap but it has 110,000 on it and I'll more than likely do eq heads on it before installing it. But if I had a 2 mile motor, I'd drop that baby in and not look back.

CE
 
Are you porting these heads, or just slamming it together stock?

If stock, stick with the stock Magnum heads and enjoy the build for what it is. If you ever wind up with the typical Magnum head crack, you'll never even realize it unless you wind up pulling the heads for a completely unrelated reason. You won't even hear it or see it on a vacuum gauge.

However, if going through all the effort of porting, AND if money isn't a concern, get the EQ heads, which will also give you the option of running your choice of LA intakes rather than either the Chinese Crosswind or one of the Mopar M1 small block Magnum intake variants.

As for my experience - I put a set of ~75,000-mile Magnum heads on my roller-cam LA 360 and didn't do anything to them. And the only thing that I can get to idle smoother than that 360 is a slant six.

-Kurt
 
Eq's make more power and are more reliable.

But I, too, am tempted by aluminum.
 
The reason Magnum heads crack is that the factory thermostat is 197* and they all came with a plastic tanked aluminum radiator. If you get a leak between tank and core, most people dont notice it until they see steam and by then its too late. If you haul a bed full of bricks everyday in central Texas or Sacramento , I would expect cracks also. If your engine has spent its life on a stand, you are fine. If you are not running a cam larger than [email protected] .500 lift then porting is a waste of time. If you absolutely must break out a die grinder to feel whole, do a SMALL gasket match on exhaust and intake but dont mess with the push rod area. Otherwise, take them off, sell them and buy EQ's.
For the sake of this posts integrity, I will not share my opinion about aluminum heads on street car with under 10-1 compression as it will only start a food fight, mostly digested food...you can PM me if you want to know or just search iron vs aluminum and get ready for an angry novel...usually gets shut down on page 10. If you want a mild build, spirited street driver, which 300 HP in a 65 will be spirited, up the cam, timing set and dont mess with the rest. If you want a truly enjoyable driver, keep the injection!!!!
 
I have a set of EQ heads that are prepped and dressed for a flat tappet cam with a lift of no more than 525. I originally purchased these for a mild 318 build I was going to do until I said ”oohh squirrel!" And changed my mind to build a stroker. I now have a set of eddy rpms on the way and would like to recoup some of my money from the EQ's. I'll let them go cheap, if you're interested start a conversation with me and we can discuss things more
So these are drilled for a LA style motor?
 
Part number CH-318A is magnum pattern Ch-318b is LA style if memory serves
 
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