mallory 11k tach hook up w/points dist. help please !

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stroker402

1968 dart GTS convertible
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mallory 11k tach hook up problems help please !

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I have a mallory 11K tach with shift lite and rev. limiter .. has 4 wires on it to hook up.
Green coil neg.
red 12v source ,
black ground
white lite.
hooked it all up to these instructions and when I hook the green coil wire up it will kill the engine..
I am running a oem mopar dual point dist.
what do you think the problem might be ? maybe needs a tach adapter ?
or just won't work with a points dist.?
Thanks for any help.
 
here is the mallory tach I'm tring to hookup with a mopar oem POINTS distributor.
Had it wired the way mallory says to do it and will not work
 

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if it wont work, then its broke. green= neg side of the coil, red=power, black=ground , just for kicks , un hook the white wire, and hook the green wire to the + side of the coil.
 
Maybe this can help shed some light.

anyone make anything out of what mallory says here how to hook up?





TECHNICAL BULLETIN

TACHOMETER/FUEL INJECTION

ADAPTER APPLICATIONS

Since there seems to be some confusion and

misinformation about the applications of the Mallory

29074 and 29078 Tach/FI Adapters, we’ve put

together a little tutorial that explains why and when

each version is needed.

Background:

Years ago, before electronic ignitions were common

(and even after they were, in some cases), tachometer

designs were geared toward the existing point-type

ignition systems. This meant that a parallel-connection

tach (one that was triggered from the coil ‘-‘ terminal)

usually required a relatively high voltage (50-100v) to

trigger properly. The other type of tach commonly

used was the “series” tach, which was triggered by

the current pulse in the ignition supply line whenever

the points closed.

When aftermarket electronic ignitions started

becoming more popular, there arose a need for some

way to trigger these tachometers, most of which were

OEM designs. In addition, more cars were using

electronic fuel injection systems, and many of these

systems required a HV pulse on the coil ‘-‘ terminal to

tell them that the ignition was working before they

would trigger the injectors. The first “tach/FI” adapters

were just a coil of wire that simulated a weak coil

primary. Our version is the 29074. When connected

between the points trigger lead and the ignition power

wire, they would make a HV pulse on the trigger wire

when the ignition was triggered. In addition, they drew

a couple of amps through the ignition wire, and this

was generally enough to trigger a series tach that was

in the circuit.

As distributors with magnetic pickups became more

popular triggering sources, the 29074 style adapter

wouldn’t work, because the point lead was no longer

available as a trigger lead. In this case, a more

complex adapter was designed (the 29078). This unit

gets it’s trigger information from the “Tach” terminal of

the ignition box and generates a HV pulse for parallel

tachometers or FI systems, and it also pulls a couple

of amps on the ignition line to trigger series tachometers.

Application information:

Some of the problem with applications is because the

catalog description for the 29078 is incomplete. BOTH

adapters can be used for either tach (series or parallel)

or FI trigger. The issue that determines which is used

is the triggering method:

If you are using the points trigger lead (in other words,

points, OEM electronic, UniLite, 50-series, etc.) for the

ignition, then a 29074 is the appropriate adapter. It

should work with both parallel and series tachometers.

If you are using the mag pickup for triggering the

CD box OR if you plan to change from points/OEM

electronic/UniLite, etc. to mag pickup in the future,

the 29078 would be the choice. In this case, a parallel

tach or FI trigger would connect to the output of the

29078, rather than the CD box tach terminal.

FORM 1488M

9/04

Made in U.S.A.

Printed in U.S.A.

MALLORY IS A DIVISION OF THE MR. GASKET PERFORMANCE GROUP

10601 MEMPHIS AVE. #12, CLEVELAND, OH 44144

216.688.8300 FAX 216.688.8306

www.mrgasket.com



Craig Cicak

Prestolite Performance

Technical Services

10601 Memphis Ave #12

Cleveland, Ohio 44144

216-658-6492

216-688-8301 fax

[email protected]











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if it wont work, then its broke. green= neg side of the coil, red=power, black=ground , just for kicks , un hook the white wire, and hook the green wire to the + side of the coil.

sorry .. my error >>>>
black is ground and
white is for light
.. white is not a ground .
 
sorry .. my error >>>>
black is ground and
white is for light
.. white is not a ground .

the reason i suggested switching the green to the positive, is because when i bought my duster and decided to add a tach, it did not work, but it worked fine in my charger, so i put it back in the duster and hooked the green on the + side of the coil, and of course it worked because the PO had the coil wired backwards. i also just ran the light wire together with the hot.
 
If it kills the engine, either the tach is bad, the green wire is shorted to ground, or it's a special order positive ground tach.

Have you been inside? Are there any configuration switches/ jumpers?

Did you buy it new?
 
It is a used tach . do not know history on it .......
Yes tony ........ I took the cover off and looked inside and there was a switvh for 4,6 or v-8 engines . It was on the 8 number for v-8.
All the wires were intach , nothing cut or pinched.
don't know if it was a tach for a pos. ground.

I hooked it up to my other dart with a msd unit and a electronic dist. the needle would idle right for a few seconds then start climbing without even reving the engine..
then the next time I touch the red wire to the battery pos is sparked all over. think it is shorted out inside..
I think the tach is junk..
oh well ...... I tried.
 
I think you have two threads going? If you'd like to pay shipping, I'd be happy to take a look at it for you.
 
something fried out in the inside ... It filled the clear glass up with smoke when I was testing it .. the insides smell like smoke bad .. something burned up ,, when I had the cover off and looked inside I did see one wire attached to the circuit board that was black and sooty.. that must be where something melted down.
major Junk now !
 
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