manifold vaccum for vaccum advance ?'s

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Lonewolf3165 said:
Oklacarcollecto said:
Just take it to a shop that is known for being able to diagnose & repair dirveability issues. Chances are if you waste your time looking around for a guy who just knows old mopars you'll be probably getting more of the same as here. You may just end up with Bubba who used to work on his Duzder & dat ran good. Not much business in that anymore. Any good qualified technician with skills in driveability should be able to diagnose this in a couple of hours or less. I've been a foreign car specialist most of my professional career, now I own one of those so called "ricer shops". Muscle cars are my passion & hobby though, & I can tell you I've solved more than my share of problems caused & made worse by guy who were the so called "experts" on these older cars. It doesn't matter what brand of car it is the same rules apply to diagnosis & repair.
Take it to a qualified shop.
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that's correct; doesn't matter how new or complicated the engine is the basic's still apply and need to be checked first; every gas engine needs corectly timed ignition, good compression and very good spark
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66plyValiant said:
Lonewolf3165 said:
that's correct; doesn't matter how new or complicated the engine is the basic's still apply and need to be checked first; every gas engine needs corectly timed ignition, good compression and very good spark
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That isn't my original post you have quoted. The reason I said what I did is because most younger mechanics have little to no carburator knowledge and if they can't hook it up on a scanner they are lost. Many repair shops are no different than the guys behind the parts counters that don't know how to find a part without the computer so that is why I said "Find a real pro that knows these engines and take it to be repaired". Pro means PROFFESSIONAL, not someone that has worked on a couple of cars many years ago. When I said ricer shop I was trying to convey to him to find someone that knows his type of engine. I am sorry if I offended anyone with the ricer comment but if you will read the entire thread I think you will understand why I said it way.
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ok boys, i figured out what was causing the thudding out my exhaust while at an idle. It was the piece of crap ecu i bought from car quest. I have a brand new mopar gold ignition module the ones thats spos to be used for racing only. I pulled the car quest ecu off and bolted on the mopar gold module and fired it up and let it idle untill it was warmed up, then i took it for a little cruise and came back and let it idle in park and i sat back and listened to the exhaust for over 5 minutes and i douldnt hear the thudding out the exhaust sound. so thats one down one more to go.
I have a compression tester and am going to perform a compression test on the engine as soon as my girl gets off work so i can have her crank the motor over while i read the compression gauage. And i will post those results as soon as i can.
I have watched several you tube videos on how to perform a compression test and i have the right fittin for my engine. The only thing i dont have is a leak down tester. So will still have to schedule an appointment to get that done.
And while i was on my test drive running the gold module i noticed smoke still came out the exhaust when letting off of the throttle when getting on her a little bit, so i know the miss was not causing that issue. I'm really hoping its valve guides or valve seals causing this because if its piston rings i'll be really upset with myself... Not that i'm not already but iron ram cylinder heads was already a future plan, if its valve guides and or valve seals it wont upset me as bad because that will mean getting new cylinder heads needs to be done quicker then i had originally planned.
While the truck is at an idle there is no smoke coming out the exhaust and when i first start it up it doesnt smoke out the exhaust, so i'm hoping that is an indication that the pistons and rings are probably ok. Because like i said i had a 318 with shot piston rings and that thing smoked everytime you fired it up and it smoked while at an idle this magnum is not doing that, it only smokes when your driving down the road and get it on it pretty good and back off the throttle. And if its parked i can rev it up to around 3 to 4 thousand rpm and when i back off the throttle no smoke comes out then ether, its only when i'm going down the road. I'm hoping and preying these are sighns of valve guides or valve seals rather then pistons and rings.
 
...................The gold box does not like to be run 4 extendes intervals........it also needs a super hot coil.....the gb is a multi spark, so u prolly need plugs.....kim.....
 
Hotter plugs or colder plugs? I'm running the ngk zrf511's right now. still havent gottent the compression test downe yet, but i will here very soon.
 
ok guys, i did a compression check on the engine. Every cylinder came out at 150 and every cylinder got to 150 within 4 or 5 seconds of cranking it over. Some of them landed at 147 and 148 and 150 but they were all within 5 psi of eachother.
Now i looked at all of the plugs and they were all nice golden brown except for cylinder number 5. The plug on cylinder number 5 was black, really black. Now when i'm driving hard and back off the throttle real quick most of the smoke comes out of the drivers side exhaust pipe. A little bit comes out the passenger side but not near s much as what comes out of the drivers side exhaust pipe. And i do have an H pipe on my exhaust so i think thats why a little bit comes out the passenger side because all of the passenger side plugs looked good.
I called a friend of mine who is a certified mechanic, he is not a young mechanic ether he is 42 years old and been in the mechanic buisness since he was 18. He told me that this is mot likely a valve seal letting oil blow by on to the number 5 cylinder, he said that is most likely oil thats causing the number 5 cylinder spark plug to be black.
He said since my compression test checked out good that it is most likely the valve seal on the number 5 cylinder. He said very rarely does just 1 piston ring go out, he said if 1 piston ring goes out then so does the others.
This engine sat for almost 2 years without being ran, and he reminded me of that, he said that when it sat that long without being ran that the valve seals most likely hardned up and that they most likely cracked and thats whats letting the oil come by when i back off the throttle while cuising down the road.
So he advised me to pop the valve cover off on the drivers side and to check the valve seals with a screwdriver, he said if there isnt any bounce to them then they are hardned up and need changed. He said for me to try replacing the valve seals first, and if it still smokes after that then that would most likely mean the valve guides are shot too and that i could ether pay to get these heads re-built or just buy brand new ones.
 
Does the #5 intake port correspond with the broken manifold bolt/stud? May be sucking oil from the valley if the intake has lost it's seal there.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
66plyValiant said:
That isn't my original post you have quoted. The reason I said what I did is because most younger mechanics have little to no carburator knowledge and if they can't hook it up on a scanner they are lost. Many repair shops are no different than the guys behind the parts counters that don't know how to find a part without the computer so that is why I said "Find a real pro that knows these engines and take it to be repaired". Pro means PROFFESSIONAL, not someone that has worked on a couple of cars many years ago. When I said ricer shop I was trying to convey to him to find someone that knows his type of engine. I am sorry if I offended anyone with the ricer comment but if you will read the entire thread I think you will understand why I said it way.
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No harm, no foul Oklacarcollector. It was a long hot week & it was late so I was probably a little edgy.
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pjc360 said:
Now i looked at all of the plugs and they were all nice golden brown except for cylinder number 5. The plug on cylinder number 5 was black, really black.
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Golden brown/ light tan is best. Oil burning usually appears as a light gray spotty ash color on the electrodes. Black, like soot, is usually over rich or a dead hole(not firing). If it's wet it fuel fouled.

Glad you ar narrowing this thing down. I had seem problems with Ignition ECUs in the past.
 
I'm not sure what is going on with the quoting thing... nobodys quotes are coming out right..
 
no, the broken intake stud is by the number 6 cylinder on the passenger side.
every plug except for cylinder 5 looked good. And the number 5 plug was not wet, just real dark.
 
I have the drivers side valve cover popped off right now, so these valve seals are loctaed under the sprrings correct? This is the first time i have ever popped the valve cover off this engine. Do i need to take anything off to get a better look at the seals? like the rockers?
 
pjc360 said:
I have the drivers side valve cover popped off right now, so these valve seals are loctaed under the sprrings correct? This is the first time i have ever popped the valve cover off this engine. Do i need to take anything off to get a better look at the seals? like the rockers?
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Have you ever looked at a valve seal? They are always under the springs. You should be able to use a light and see them if you don't have double springs.

Normally I would say yes to removing the rockers but ........
 
The intake seal should fit over the guide boss, meaning down toward the bottom of the valve stem. Look at some of the others then look at the #5 intake and see if it came loose and is riding up the valve stem. They should look similar to this..............
 

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pjc360 said:
I have the drivers side valve cover popped off right now, so these valve seals are loctaed under the sprrings correct? This is the first time i have ever popped the valve cover off this engine. Do i need to take anything off to get a better look at the seals? like the rockers?
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You should be able to see it through the spring. If it's just a nick where it seals around the stem I doubt you will see it.

IF you start pulling the rockers off make sure you keep them on the shaft or at least in order. The shaft only goes on one way, pay attention to how it's on there. When you put it back together don't crank to hard on the bolts, they will snap easy. In fact clean the holes out before you put them in there.
 
Badsport said:
You should be able to see it through the spring. If it's just a nick where it seals around the stem I doubt you will see it.

IF you start pulling the rockers off make sure you keep them on the shaft or at least in order. The shaft only goes on one way, pay attention to how it's on there. When you put it back together don't crank to hard on the bolts, they will snap easy. In fact clean the holes out before you put them in there.
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XS2 .....



when you pull the shaft off, take it off with the bolts in their holes. you dont need to take the bolts out of the shaft. make sure they go back on the exact way they came off
 
ok, i wont take the bolts off, I'm just going to remove the rockers near the number 5 cylinder and have a look at the seals. if they are bad they should be hard and cracked and dry, correct?
 
well i took the rockers off near cylinder number 5, but i cant tell if the valve seal under the spring is good or not? ive never seen them before so i have never seen a bad valve seal or a good one..... I'm thinking maybe i should have my mechanic friend stop over tommarrow after he gets off work and take peak at them.
i'm not 100 percent sure, but i thought i could see a tear near the top of the seal, maybe not a tear but it looks as if its swelled up a little bit and not extrmely tight, if that makes sense.
 
ok quick question guys, and its a dumb question. But i called the part store to order new valve seals and they asked me if i was wanting to get intake seals or exhaust seals? I said intake seals. Did i get it right? bad intake seals will let oio by when vaccum is high correct? Just wanted to make sure i had them order the correct seals.
 
pjc360 said:
ok quick question guys, and its a dumb question. But i called the part store to order new valve seals and they asked me if i was wanting to get intake seals or exhaust seals? I said intake seals. Did i get it right? bad intake seals will let oio by when vaccum is high correct? Just wanted to make sure i had them order the correct seals.
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Yes, intake is correct. For the most part exhaust seals are more umbrella shaped and ride the ext. valve stem to shed oil off the stem. Not nearly as critical, but if your doing 8 it wouldn't hurt to do 16:D. But yes the intake side is most important.
 
ok, well if i might as well do exhaust seals while im in there i will order them tommarrow.
My mechanic friend said he would help me change out the seals, so he's going to call me ether this coming weekend or the next to do it. I'm going to put the valve cover back on it and drive it to his house and we will change them in his garage.
I still dont know if it is the valve seals causing this issue, but my mechanic friend seems to think there is a very good chance thats what it is, specially since the number 5 spark plug is getting drinched in oil and thats obviously where my miss is coming from.
He said since my compression test checked out, its most likely not the rings. I'm 4000 feet above sea level and my engine was landing at 150 psi on the compression test and getting there within 4 or 5 seconds of cranking. He said my compression test came out real good and that he highly doubhts i hurt a piston or fried the piston rings with it putting out 150 psi on the compression test.
 
i would say at 150 , its definitely not a ring. after you get those new seals on, give it some time to burn off the excess oil before you start to panic LOL . also make sure that cylinder is firing even if you have to switch a wire and plug out.
 
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