manual box rebuild

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72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
Joined
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Im looking into a manual box rebuild. Anyone have any good write ups? Also a source for the parts and part numbers I may need. the box is unknown to me so id like to go though it.
 
Many posts on this with PN's and photos, several in the last few months (including mine).
 
BillGrissom said:
Many posts on this with PN's and photos, several in the last few months (including mine).
Click to expand...



I did browse before I asked this question. Also I just searched and found your thread but all I seen was something on a cracked box. If you could point out a few threads that would be appreciated.
 
Does 2537349-1 sound familar? thats the numbers I got off it. Does that seal kit come with everything you need? I guess what have you done to yours in the past?
 
The 349 box you have is the better box. The pinion shaft on yours has 121 needle bearings as opposed to the 350 box which uses 3 bronze oilite bushings. To me the needle bearing box is easier to turn the wheel while the car is sitting still. The main issue manual boxes have is the top of the pinion shaft where the three teeth are. The center tooth will have wear on both sides of that tooth because that is where the steering is most of the time, straight ahead. If you take a die grinder with a stone bit and reface that tooth smooth again the box will operate smooth as silk when you put it back together. I've done a bunch of these like this with great success.
 
72ScampTramp said:
I did browse before I asked this question. Also I just searched and found your thread but all I seen was something on a cracked box. If you could point out a few threads that would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
I know there are many more, but I am not going to look them up for you. One recent one gave a link to a moparts thread with PN's for the seals and bearings.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
The 349 box you have is the better box. The pinion shaft on yours has 121 needle bearings as opposed to the 350 box which uses 3 bronze oilite bushings. To me the needle bearing box is easier to turn the wheel while the car is sitting still. The main issue manual boxes have is the top of the pinion shaft where the three teeth are. The center tooth will have wear on both sides of that tooth because that is where the steering is most of the time, straight ahead. If you take a die grinder with a stone bit and reface that tooth smooth again the box will operate smooth as silk when you put it back together. I've done a bunch of these like this with great success.
Click to expand...


Nice info do you normally just buy the kit from firm feel or do you have another source? Im not opposed to tackling this but new to cars as I am everything is a learning curve. I have no reason to believe this box is bad but nows the time to go though it.
 
You can get an "idea" of the need to rebuild by the amount of free play when the wheels are straight ahead. The stud and lock nut is how you adjust this excess play out. loosen the nut and turn the stud CW. But if you have wear step up on the center tooth than yes you need to reface that tooth. Otherwise if you remove the play while the wheels are centered than when you turn the steering wheel left or to the right the pinion teeth and the worm gear teeth will be in a bind.
 
ok so you are saying to install the box first and check for play? Right now there is no engine in so its easier now.
 
No you can test it on the bench. count the turns from lock to lock, should be about 5 1/2 turns. Now center the shaft about 2 3/4 turns from lock. See how much play it has and does the shaft turn smooth.
 
You are correct it is about 5 1/2 lock to lock. However I noticed that there isnt any play but when turning it back to center it seems to drag and get harder to turn.
 
72ScampTramp said:
You are correct it is about 5 1/2 lock to lock. However I noticed that there isnt any play but when turning it back to center it seems to drag and get harder to turn.
Click to expand...

The reason it gets tight and seems to drag is because someone else has already over adjusted the stud. Sounds like your going to have to rebuild it.
 
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