Manual Heater Hose Valve

-

1969VADart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2013
Messages
2,498
Reaction score
813
Location
Fredericksburg, VA
Since I eliminated the AC on my car, I am thinking I would like to clean up under the hood by eliminating the extra vacuum valve that connects to the AC/heater box and the extra lengths of heater hose. I am actually going to keep the AC/heater box in the car since it will obviously mount under the dash without any problems. I was wondering if anyone has any pictures of a manual heater hose valve (if that is what you would call it) that is installed under the hood to be able to turn the flow of water on and off to the heater core so that I can still have heat when I want or need it? Any information would be greatly appreciated.
 
You should be able to find one at a "real" parts store. Get someone who is willing to help and can look through the parts illustrated guide. Might not even be Mopar, might be chev, etc. You want older stuff, maybe, 60's--80's non AC pickups, as the older ones were cable operated.

A quick Google turned up this:

1972-82%20Dodge%20Truck%20Heater%20Control%20Valve.JPG
 
Home Depot sells a 1/2 ball valve. I have one on my car at the firewall and shortened the open/close handle. $8 and works great. The few times a year it gets chilly I pop the hood and open the valve.
 
You should be able to find one at a "real" parts store. Get someone who is willing to help and can look through the parts illustrated guide. Might not even be Mopar, might be chev, etc. You want older stuff, maybe, 60's--80's non AC pickups, as the older ones were cable operated.

A quick Google turned up this:

1972-82%20Dodge%20Truck%20Heater%20Control%20Valve.JPG

X2 my 78 power wagon has the same valve, NAPA sells them.
 
Home Depot sells a 1/2 ball valve. I have one on my car at the firewall and shortened the open/close handle. $8 and works great. The few times a year it gets chilly I pop the hood and open the valve.

Actually a 3/8 ball valve and 3/8 pipe nipples are the perfect size for 5/8 heater hose
 
Four Season heater and A/C parts(good parts stores carry the line) has a manual valve complete with 5/8'' nipples.Small, in line, and works great.
 
Home depot carries a ball valve with nipples cast in for 1/2" ID hose. All my a bodies have a 1/2" heater input, and 5/8" ouutlet at the heater core.
 
I don't get it. You plan to remove the factory water valve that you can operate with the selector panel inside the car and install something you have to go out under the hood and turn off and on?

I don't see where you are "eliminating" anything. You remove one object and replace it with another object. You still have to have heater hoses to conduct the coolant from the block to the heater core.

I admire your effort but perhaps you should consider something else to modify besides this idea.
 
I don't get it. You plan to remove the factory water valve that you can operate with the selector panel inside the car and install something you have to go out under the hood and turn off and on?

I don't see where you are "eliminating" anything. You remove one object and replace it with another object. You still have to have heater hoses to conduct the coolant from the block to the heater core.

I admire your effort but perhaps you should consider something else to modify besides this idea.

I appreciate your point. The reason I posed this idea was because the current vacuum valve (that mounts on the fender) and excess vacuum lines add additional clutter under the hood. An inline manual valve would remove some of the clutter, particularly from the fender after getting a nice, new paint job. It is not about eliminating function, it is about eliminating stuff that covers up nicer looking stuff under the hood. Never said I was going to do it. Just wanted to get the question out there.
 
i removed all that stuff from my car when i swapped out the slant and now trying to figure out how to make my heat work those few times a year i need to more defrost my windows versus heat my car. i can push/pull the rods to make it switch to where iwantit to blow but without vacuum after awhile they go back to their original positions.

and then there is the whole " it wont get up to temperature" problem which is another whole issues and i hope when i swap in the 360 it will run more than 100 degrees lol
 
-
Back
Top