RidingBean
Member
Hello,
I am new here and recently acquired a 1973 Dart. I decided to drive it from California to home to Texas during a recent vacation. A friend owned it, and had some work done to it, but there were still a few issues. Thanks to this forum, and Mad Enterprises, I repaired several current and future problems with one repair. I am sharing this in the hopes that if anyone else starts chasing gremlins like I did, this will save some pain. I know, a lot of words here. It can save some headaches also.
First, the list of issues: The car had trouble starting. Previous owner thought it was the neutral switch, I did too, until I learned manual trans of this year does not have one. The starter would engage at times when the park lights were turned on. The car would stall unless it was revved up when you turned on the headlights. I replaced the battery with a brand new one rated for the engine, the old one was low on crank amps.
I drove the car for awhile, it got harder and harder to start until it WOULD NOT start. I did the normal tests and narrowed it down to the relay. Jump the relay and it would start. Easy, replace the relay. No fix. Another relay, same deal. Started pulling the column apart to check the ignition switch, but the bearing wouldn't come lose and there is not tool available. (I am on vacation, not near my house) I decided to go old school and install a start button, bypassing the switch. Worked perfectly.
Started driving to Texas and the starting got worse and worse and each stop. Had to resort to jump starting and that worked. Must not be charging the battery. I am on the way home, so I will deal with it there. At the second to last fuel stop, battery completely gone. All my lights and accessories and working, though. Hmmm, alternator is doing something.
Got home, started looking into it and found the ammeter info here. Did the repair found at http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml and all is fine. Every single issue I had is gone since I bypassed the gauge and bulkhead connectors.
If you are skeptical, as I was for about 20 minutes before I thought it through, all of the components I was having trouble with run through that circuit for the ammeter. This is something that I was completely unaware of, and I can guarantee that most repair shops will have no clue about. (ask the previous owner) The headlights, ignition switch and charging system ALL go through there. Not the smartest design, but not the worse I've seen.
Lesson to learn, if you are even beginning to have any of my problems, likely it is this issue. If you are not, be prepared to do the work in the future. Also, since I did this, I can now install a higher output alternator. I've already beefed up those parts.
I am new here and recently acquired a 1973 Dart. I decided to drive it from California to home to Texas during a recent vacation. A friend owned it, and had some work done to it, but there were still a few issues. Thanks to this forum, and Mad Enterprises, I repaired several current and future problems with one repair. I am sharing this in the hopes that if anyone else starts chasing gremlins like I did, this will save some pain. I know, a lot of words here. It can save some headaches also.
First, the list of issues: The car had trouble starting. Previous owner thought it was the neutral switch, I did too, until I learned manual trans of this year does not have one. The starter would engage at times when the park lights were turned on. The car would stall unless it was revved up when you turned on the headlights. I replaced the battery with a brand new one rated for the engine, the old one was low on crank amps.
I drove the car for awhile, it got harder and harder to start until it WOULD NOT start. I did the normal tests and narrowed it down to the relay. Jump the relay and it would start. Easy, replace the relay. No fix. Another relay, same deal. Started pulling the column apart to check the ignition switch, but the bearing wouldn't come lose and there is not tool available. (I am on vacation, not near my house) I decided to go old school and install a start button, bypassing the switch. Worked perfectly.
Started driving to Texas and the starting got worse and worse and each stop. Had to resort to jump starting and that worked. Must not be charging the battery. I am on the way home, so I will deal with it there. At the second to last fuel stop, battery completely gone. All my lights and accessories and working, though. Hmmm, alternator is doing something.
Got home, started looking into it and found the ammeter info here. Did the repair found at http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml and all is fine. Every single issue I had is gone since I bypassed the gauge and bulkhead connectors.
If you are skeptical, as I was for about 20 minutes before I thought it through, all of the components I was having trouble with run through that circuit for the ammeter. This is something that I was completely unaware of, and I can guarantee that most repair shops will have no clue about. (ask the previous owner) The headlights, ignition switch and charging system ALL go through there. Not the smartest design, but not the worse I've seen.
Lesson to learn, if you are even beginning to have any of my problems, likely it is this issue. If you are not, be prepared to do the work in the future. Also, since I did this, I can now install a higher output alternator. I've already beefed up those parts.
