Master Cly. Heat Shield

-

340Dart

Obsessive Dart Disorder
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2005
Messages
778
Reaction score
233
Location
Mount Morris, New York
Doe's this help if you have under chassis headers on a small block or is this more for fender well headers?

Fred B
 
This helps anytime the master cylinder is so close to your primary tube/s that it may be heating up the fluid. This is especially the case with big blocks in A-bodies (and with larger than normal race headers).
 
It would help on any car from a 255 to a street Hemi, keeping heat off of the master cylinder helps for better performance and longer lasting seals. It also helps protect it from the heat comming of the engine, I have one on my car!
 
Well, if you need a pic........:cheers:

Picture 086.jpg


DSC02795.jpg
 
I fabbed one up using a block of wood and a rubber mallet....
SANY0004-vi.jpg


I figured it couldn't hurt....
 
The one I got from Accurate years ago is aluminum. I would think aluminum would deflect the heat better.
 
Aluminum conducts heat much better than steel. Heated air in the engine compartment will eventually transfer some energy to another surface. Air is a good insulator, especially if you have some venting going on in there. Radiant energy is the greatest problem, though. Those pipes get real hot. You can feel the radiant energy by moving your hand closer to the pipes. It decreases the farther away you move from the source. Radiant energy can be reflected somewhat by a shiny surface, but it is not complete. The surface will eventually heat up and conduct heat away.

My '68 GTX came with an aluminum foil-covered packet of insulation that sat between the lifter valley tray and the intake manifold. I don't know how effective it was, but it was there.

Anything that you can do to reduce the amount of radiant energy from directly shining on the master cylinder from the pipes is better than nothing. Radiant energy transmits line-of-sight. Fiberglas is a good insulator (asbestos was better, but that is another story). Remember, it is material with tiny air pockets that actually slows heat transfer through conduction. Therefore, a shiny metal shield backed with a Fiberglas pad might be the ultimate remedy. Same would go for the starter motor.
 
Hi guys, i have a 66 Cuda with a 340 and hooker super comp headers, i recently updgraded by brakes to the SSBC kit that came with a dual master cylinder. THe master clylinder just touches one of the tubes at the end, in some of the pictures on this thread people have a dual mster that appears to have plenty of clearance from the header tube. Can some one provide me the number for the master cylinder and heat shield.

Thanks
Rob
 
i don't have the numbers but mancini sells them.
in your case, you might also consider one of the offset MC mounts that are neccessary on hemi a-bodies. they were made so the MC cleared the big valve covers.
i would think the more room betweem MC and header tubes the better.
 
Use a thermal barrier coating on the headers,too- it'd bring the entire underhood temperature down and keep the heat in the exhaust pulse, thus meaning quicker moment down the pipe.
 
Use a thermal barrier coating on the headers,too- it'd bring the entire underhood temperature down and keep the heat in the exhaust pulse, thus meaning quicker moment down the pipe.
 
Heat shields are Mancini Racing part number MRE318. They are made from polished stainless steel primarily for looks and corrosion resistance but the shiny surface also helps to reflect the heat. Mopar Performance also has them in the catalog.
 
-
Back
Top