Master Cylinder bench bleeding help plz

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1BadDodge71

1BadDodge71

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I had to buy a new master cylinder for my Duster and brakes being my weakest parts of working on a car,how do I know its been bled correctly?It says to keep pushing in the plunger until no more air bubbles are in the clear tubes,but I think Ive done this 30 times and im still getting air bubbles in the fluid.
 
If you don't maintain enough fluid in the resivor, or let it get below the ends of the tubes, it can suck air in it again. If you get your fluid "airated" with bubbles by doing it so much, or too fast, you might want to let it set a while so the bubbles can deteriorate.
 
1BadDodge71 said:
thanks hemied .
Ive kept the fluid topped off and Im trying not to do it too fast.Ill let it sit awhile.I hate doing brakes,lol
Click to expand...
Well it is all relative, brakes are better than exhaust. :)

I swear, every time I do exhaust work, I say it will be the last.
 
I guess I need to bleed them,I dont know.The brakes are really stiff and when I brake,it pulls to the left side and noticed brake fluid coming out of the cap and the cap is on tight .Is this because there is alot of air in the system?
 
ok,im wondering why its leaking fluid from around the cap.This is exactly what my old one did,except that one also leaked from the back.And the pulling hard to the left when I brake.I took my hand off the wheel for a bit while driving straight and the steering didnt wander,only when I brake.
 
if they are drum brakes make sure they are clean and adjusted correctly, after that or if they are disk brakes it sounds like you have air in the right side and need to bleed that side again (always bleed the side opposite of the direction it is pulling, if it pulls to the right, bleed the left side, if it pulls to the left, bleed the right side)
 
thanx caferacer:cheers:
yes,they are drums and tomorrow im going to pull the front wheels off and look at the wheel cylinders.I replaced the shoes and drums,but I think my left front wheel cylinder is bad because I cant seem to be able to adjust it.
 
If the master cylinder is new, or rebuilt, often the 'rubber' seal they use isn't a good rubber, its some sort of poly-something. I found they don't seal like the old rubber ones. Try to find one from an old master cylinder, and use it. Also make sure your master cylinder lid isn't bent. I had one that was bent just the slightest, but it will never seal properly.
 
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