master cylinder question

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coffeedart67

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Have a new master cylinder and have a few questions. The new master cylinder is Cardone 13-1323M, it has a different lid than both of the previous master cylinders did, the previous master cylinders had what I could best describe as double hump lids, with a single bolt and a spreader bar (m shaped bar)to hold it down, the new one has a single hump lid. Is this the right master cylinder? The new master cylinder has a small tabon the firewall side to hold in the piston(I assume), do I remove this prior to installation? The previous master cylinder has it removed, the master cylinder that was before that one had a sheetmetal cup spanning two countersunk holes that are present on all three masters. What do I do?
Will get pics in a little bit. I searched for about an hour, cause I now I saw a thread with pictures of the same masters as I have, but couldn't find it.
Thanks
Aaron
 
13-1323M is a new master cylinder and they don't have the old style lids. Some of the remans don't have them either. Without knowing the application I have no idea if it is the right one for your car.

You are talking about this type of cover.
 

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Oops, sorry. 67 Dart with 10" drums all the way around. Here are the pics.
From left to right, the master that was on it when I bought it 20 years ago, the one I replaced about 10 years ago, the new one.

From the backside.

Close up of the tab, and the sheetmetal cup thing.



Thanks
Aaron
 
Does your car have a power booster? I am pretty sure that manual and power MC's are different PN's (check rockauto). The MC in your bottom photo looks like the factory manual ones on my 64 Valiant and 65 Dart, with 2-bolt retainer. Your new one looks like the power MC on my 65 Newport (single pot.), with tab retainer (not original).

For sure leave the retainer on or the piston will pop out. Manual MC's have a rubber bellows which attaches to the 2-bolt retainer. Using a power MC wouldn't allow the bellows (not big deal, could fab some foam). The piston hole might be shallower, so your pedal might sit higher. Power MC's have a smaller bore (in 1972), so your pedal would be easier but travel farther.

If you get another MC, consider a 2-bolt alum MC as I am currently doing on 2 cars. For one (power) I got Dr. Diff's adapter plate ($35 free ship ebay, or Summit's). For the other (manual), I plan to just drill 2 holes thru the firewall & bracket. Most people use an MC from ~85 Dodge truck. I am using one from 95-99 Breeze ABS since I used on my 65 Dart.
 
no booster. Part number matchs up, to manual 10" drums all they way around. Got thinking about the rear of the master and the mechanic I had change the master last time probably switched the sheetmetal cup thing(which I assume also retains the piston).
Got the front brakes done, working on the rear, and the shoe retainer spring torture device contraption is giving me fits, so took a little break
Thanks
Aaron
 
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