master cylinder upgrade help

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dust-u

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I could use a little help on this one...removed the power brakes in my duster and installed the master adapter/master and installed a adjustable brake pushrod...all in all pretty straight forward...BUT.. my pedal seems a little more firm than I would like..It also seems to have some difficulty returning after depressing.. It does come back..but not all the way the brake pedal and the clutch pedal were NEVER even on this car..I did make sure the bolt was not too tight on the pedal..I bench bled the master pretty good as well..I will bleed the brakes .but figured air would give me a soft pedal?...has anyone else encountered the same issue as me...? what was your solution.. ? any recommendations.?:burnout:
 
I did the exact same thing as you. Went from a power to manual system with the power master. The pedal was real hard and I used both feet to stop quickly. It was a hard to keep it from creeping at lights and stop signs. I drove with it like that for 4 years.
My fix was I bought a 15/16" manual brake aluminum master and adapter from Dr. Diff. I installed it today and bleed the brakes.
I haven't driven it yet but it has a nice pedal feel with a little more travel.
Got it for a $109 with the shipping. Money well spent for good brakes.
 
that's the set up I have now..let me know how yours goes
 
yes..the aftermarket pushrod uses a "heim? joint end..and if the bolt is overtightened the pedal will bind
 
So when you tigthen this bolt, the center of the heim joint should tighten against the side of the pedal......right? If I am imagining this right, then this is the way it is designed. This should still allow everything to move freely. I am thinking that something is offset too far to one side and the heim is running out of sideways flex range, or there are some washers missing.

Perchance is the pushrod going to the wrong side of the pedal??

Pictures sure would help. What is the pushrod brand/model?

BTW, going from the 1-1/32" dia MC to the 15/16" dia MC should reduce brake pedal force approx 20%.
 
My Dart has a very hard pedal, no issues stopping but it's just feels like I am trying to push a wall. Hope this works for you too, if it does I see this in my future.
 
My understanding is that, if all the other components remain the same, switching from power to manual will require a smaller cylinder master to achieve a good pedal feel. 15/16" or 7/8" would be the sizes to look at.
 
nm9...I looked at that...bolt is now tight pushrod is a straight shot..took the car out today..stops well ..just a hard pedal...otherwise ok
 
OK, so no return issues now? If it still sitcks, and this is the same MC as before, then it could just be crud/rust built up in the MC bore; I am replacing one right now in a car that has set a lot and has that issue.

See if you can establish that you have the 1-1/32" (1.03") bore MC; if so, then the MC change is in order if ...... Is it correct to assume that when you say 'hard pedal' that you mean it takes more force than you think is normal to stop?
 
its a brand new 15/16... guessing it is...what it is...
 
Confirm you have a 15/16 bore master.
My old cast iron power master is a 1 1/8 bore, really hard pedal.
 
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