Master Power Brakes Combination Valve

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ecw329

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Does anyone have any experience with these???
it makes it virtually impossible to bleed the rears because when it senses the pressure differential it blocks flow to that side. Also, it keeps sticking itself on one side closing one until we reset it by cracking the other side's bleeders....Whats the deal???
 
When bleeding with these you have to be careful not to let the brake pedal travel more than halfway to the floor. That is the point that the valve trips and shuts off fluid flow to the open circuit. Either that or invest in a vacuum bleeder and bleed from the wheels.
 
I started a post on this same subject a few months ago. I ended up changing mine around to a later model and did away with that valve. But I think that you could gravity bleed the system and get it to work. I had the same problem you are having. If you look back on my old post you can check it out.
 
I threw out the GM master cyllinder and prop valve I got with my manual disk brake system from Master power and got a C-body manual disk master cyllinder from Advance auto for $15.oo and I'm using that and an adjustable rear porportioning valve and the brakes feel really great.
I did not have to make any adjustments to the reap prop valve after I initially installed it per instructions.

Master power brakes have a pretty good tech guy, I forget his name, that will help answer all your questions.

At the time I bought my brakes they were giving GM master cyl's to the Mopar guys but I hear they are offering Mopar master's now, but that is only what I heard.
 
the gm master that came with the kit was crap (fluid coming out of the back side of the piston) so we replaced it with a master for a 73' duster with front discs, so i guess you guys didnt have much luck with that combo valve either hu?? anyways just to get it straight yall did away with the valve and plumbed in a prop. valve for the rears....? thanks for all the feedback!!
 
ecw329 said:
the gm master that came with the kit was crap (fluid coming out of the back side of the piston) so we replaced it with a master for a 73' duster with front discs, so i guess you guys didnt have much luck with that combo valve either hu?? anyways just to get it straight yall did away with the valve and plumbed in a prop. valve for the rears....? thanks for all the feedback!!
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I did, but you may not get complete blessings from everyone on this as different master cyllinders vary in hydraulic pressures which could result in problems for you.

I just put a T-in line from the front portion of the master port for the front brakes, and of course the rear has an adjustable valve.

BUT I still suggest you call the master power brakes tech guy.
 
been on the phone with him multiple times and he says its most likely a pressure problem, and we are thinking is it a pressure problem because of inqdequate volume displaced by the master to the rears because of the wheel cylinders being too large.... 15/16" instead of 13/16" as was stock on a bodies with front discs





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