Mid 70's 360 motor mysterious water leak

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Tooljunkie said:
RRR,thats a great idea, but i havent seen studs that long in my travels,t-rod is unacceptable.
Guess long grade 8 bolts and cut head off and thread.
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Why is all thread rod unacceptable? You can get it in grade 8.
 
Yes, but i live in the sticks,would have to order it and i know it be pricey. Non stock always is.
 
Thanks everyone. Ordered a new high volume water pump. Since the front will be partially apart, the timing chain cover and chain may as well be done at the same time. At least checked!
 
carguy47 said:
Thanks everyone. Ordered a new high volume water pump. Since the front will be partially apart, the timing chain cover and chain may as well be done at the same time. At least checked!
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And when it goes back together use RTV on the water pump bolts this time. :D
I like to put it on the entire length of the threads as deep as the threads are, let it sit for a couple of minutes to skin over and put them in.
 
I don't use any sealant there and never had a leak. But, if you were going to use a sealant I would recommend using liquid Teflon sealant on that bolt (and any that need to be loosened and retightened). RTV of any kind will harden in place. If you loosen the bolt, then retighten, you broke the seal. Teflon will just move around and re-seal. It doesn't harden.
BTW - my guess is the bolt is too short. You don't need a stud, in fact it might be hard to work with doing regular maintenance down the road - but you do need to make sure the length is right so the threads engage well up the threads. And use the teflon not RTV.
 
Just don't put too long a bolt in and go through a cylinder wall.

I use black rtv on the threads, works for me.

Whenever I see blue rtv...i also see shade tree tell tales..like hacked up wiring, bolts missing and stripped.
 
Lol,no. Chuck some good rod in the lathe and twist off exactly what i need
 
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