mid plates

-
Assume a plate like the front but between the engine and tranny.
 
Assume a plate like the front but between the engine and tranny.

I knew a guy that had a low 9 second duster , that used a front motor plate , stock rubber trans mount and "no mid plate "
 
I knew a guy that had a low 9 second duster , that used a front motor plate , stock rubber trans mount and "no mid plate "


Only 9.42 here but that’s how mine is set up. My old Daytona had a mid plate and came in very handy once. I had a bad oil leak so I bolted the engine in the car minus the transmission and fired it up. Found my oil leak.
 
Only 9.42 here but that’s how mine is set up. My old Daytona had a mid plate and came in very handy once. I had a bad oil leak so I bolted the engine in the car minus the transmission and fired it up. Found my oil leak.
Yeah it would be kick *** for pulling the tranny period , I`d think .
 
The midplate stops some of the ping pong effect when using a motor plate & a stock type transmission mount under hard acceleration & deceleration. I don't have one in my bracket car yet but it will be going in when the 416 is installed. I'm installing one because I noticed a slight deflection of the motor plate some times. When we first set the car up, we took measurements & then took some after the first few passes. That's when we noticed the slight deflection.
 
The midplate stops some of the ping pong effect when using a motor plate & a stock type transmission mount under hard acceleration & deceleration. I don't have one in my bracket car yet but it will be going in when the 416 is installed. I'm installing one because I noticed a slight deflection of the motor plate some times. When we first set the car up, we took measurements & then took some after the first few passes. That's when we noticed the slight deflection.

Even with the mid plate there should be travel limiters on the engine. You can just use one in one side, but I run them on each side. If you make enough power and get enough hook to warrant an engine and mid plate, you still need something to control engine movement on the X axis.
 
The midplate stops some of the ping pong effect when using a motor plate & a stock type transmission mount under hard acceleration & deceleration. I don't have one in my bracket car yet but it will be going in when the 416 is installed. I'm installing one because I noticed a slight deflection of the motor plate some times. When we first set the car up, we took measurements & then took some after the first few passes. That's when we noticed the slight deflection.

I built fore and aft limiters for mine ''not that it has hooked up that hard yet!"
 
My current build I put one in but using solid motor mounts and a poly trans mount,its a street/strip car just running a mid to help keep the flex stress on the ears of the block with solids.
 
My current build I put one in but using solid motor mounts and a poly trans mount,its a street/strip car just running a mid to help keep the flex stress on the ears of the block with solids.
that's good to know thanks everyone
 
Does this count?.. LOL...
IMG_20200422_173559.jpg
 
That acts as more of a torque strap to keep from breaking the left motor mount under hard acceleration. Breaking the left mount can do detrimental damage under the hood. The limiters act to keep the engine & transmission from moving front to back, or back to front under hard acceleration & deceleration. They are mostly used on higher horsepower drag race cars.
 
This is the only way to go IMO. The mid-plate creates another engine mount that also ties the two frame rails together creating another structural chassis member. A stock tranny mount needs to be used. The limiters are for eliminating fore and aft movement from accelerating, and de-accelerating. The limiters may also prevent your front E ears from cracking caused by this forward and backwards movement. 1K HP? Oh Ya. You need them. (IMHO).
 
That's why I did mine solids and mid plate poly trans, wish I went front plate but its all good. Twin turbo set up I want that engine good and solid for the most part.
 
Last edited:
True but can still help guide, mines .100" steel. They still worked maybe the replacement ones are a little bit longer not sure. Its been a while, thought I had a picture with the dowels I put in but I don't sorry, i just used these from mancini

Screenshot_20200423-205401_Chrome.jpg
 
I had a machinist make me a pair of dowels 1/4" longer than OEM.
 
did anyone replace the dail pins in the block when using the mid plate
I indicated my trans pump housing and corrected. My plate is .090
Thick and the stock Mopar offset dowels were still long enough to locate the trans.
 
-
Back
Top