MIL-SPEC cannon bulkhead connectors?

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FISHBREATH

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Have any of you guys used, or considered using, MIL-SPEC type cannon bulkhead connectors to replace the factory unit?

They come with O-rings and are weather-proof. I am seriously considering replacing my factory unit with something like this.
 

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you can... if your going to all that work why not just by pass the whole idea of a buckhead connector??

you would have to check the amp rating s for each tab to make sure they are not designed for reference voltages (5v)...
 
Just because they are "mil spec" does not make them "better" in certain ways. They still have amp ratings on the pins, and that IS THE BIG trouble with the original --too much current going through some connections.


"When" I rewire my Dart -- if I live that long -- the connector is "going away."
 
What are referred to as "Cannon" plugs, look really trick on a car, but can run into some serious money. I've used Switchcraft mil-e-quals (available from Waytek), they come in pin sizes for up to 12 gauge wire and are reasonably priced. However the crimpers and pin inserters/extractors are about 500 dollars. There are solder types available if you want to go that route. Even though these things can cost a lot of money, nothing on your car will draw more attention.
 
Sky,
I too have been looking into mil-spec multipin connectors, I went to Waytek and the ones they have are plastic not metal. Yes they are much less.
I already have the bulkhead connectors but i need the mates for them and have been quoted upwards of $60 apiece.without the backshell.
I may forgo the entire idea and pass straight through the firewall with fireproof bulkhead sleeves.
Andrew
 

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I first had experience with the MIL-SPEC cannons when I worked at the Grumman Low Speed Wind Tunnel years ago. The instrumentation techs preferred to use solder because it was faster and easier to rewire the connectors with that method.

At the LSWT, some wiring through the connectors was used for low voltage signal and power of 5 to 24 volts and higher voltage up to 120 volts. Yes, referring to spec sheets is required when choosing the correct connectors.

I plan on doing away with my ammeter and replacing it with a voltmeter anyway, so I am seriously considering using the cannon connectors.
 
I first worked with them in 1959, and the design was old then! FWIW, I personally didn't like them, but if you do decide in their favor, use the the version with a bayonet coupling. The screw type have lots of problems with threads galling.

I like the idea of upgrading bulkhead connectors, but I would use a newer design.
 
The only real trouble spot on the factory bulkhead connector are the two wires for the ammeter which get dirty then melt the plastic housing. I eliminated the factory ammeter connections in the bulkhead on my dart by making a copper buss bar that passes through the bulkhead and connects the wires with ring terminals.
 
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