Mini Starter grind :(

-
rob_robinson87

rob_robinson87

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2008
Messages
594
Reaction score
22
Location
Newport, NC
Ok, I have my engine, tranny, headers, and new starter all in and wired. I was going to bump my starter to make sure all my connections were good. However, when I bumped it, I got a short horrible grinding noise (immediately let off the key). Tried again, same noise... now, here I am.

Now, before we dive in too deep, I know the battery is bad (was questionable a few years ago when I started the restoration), however, I had my sears charger on it on the start position and it powers the interior light and radio fine until I hit the key (the interior lights dimmed bad when I hit the key). Engine turns with no problem with socket on the crank.

Before I pull the starter or do anything else, would a mini-starter not engage but still spin if the battery was that bad (thus giving me the grinding noise?) I assumed it would just click like a dead battery would give.

What worries me is that there are so many variables since the transmission is new (727 replacing 904), converter is a 727 Mancini 11" high stall unit (they show them sold out now), and the starter is new (used the original starter on the old 318 ). By the way, could a 904 converter fit in a 727 and would this cause a problem (just in case the converter I got was mislabeled). Can you tell I'm worrying now?

I do know they used the starter at the machine shop to start it on the dyno... Other than that, so many variables...

I plan on going to go get a new battery for her in the next couple of days. Anything else I may not be thinking of?
 
a 904 converter has a smaller hub..so it will not fit on to the 727 trans.
 
Well, that is good to know, so I can eliminate that problem. I'm hoping I'm worrying too much. I really can't check anything until I have a good fresh charged battery to try. By the way, all battery cables are new, I cleaned everything really good before tighting.

I built this really cool 6-gauge ground cable that bolts in the original location (firewall to block). It should really eliminate any problems there.
 
I ran into this with my Dodge D50, which is running a 273/904 & a mini starter.

The first mini-starter I had in the truck was used (believe it was for a 90's ram 1500 with a 5.9L) the first thing I noticed was the bendix was smaller on the mini starter when compared to my old fullsize starter. A few people told me it was ok, So I bolted it in and as soon as I hit the key, it wanted to eat all the teeth off the ring gear :eek:ops:

Removed it from the truck and got a different Mini Starter (one for a '94 1500 with a 5.2L), the bendix was the same size as the older large starters, bolted up fine (had to remove the wiring adapter to clear the frame in my truck) and I haven't had an issue with it since I installed that one.
 
Ah, that is good to know! That could be the problem. Luckily with these TTIs, I should be able to pull the starter without any issues.
 
Step one in ANY electrical diagnostic is to charge or replace the battery. Since you gotta do that anyway to drive it, and you gotta do that to properly diagnose it, that is what I would do.

A "Start" function on the charger is boost to a weak battery, not a dead one. If the battery doesn't have the juice, the starter may not have enough "go" to effectively shove the drive into the ring gear.

Also, it's tough on starters. It can weld the contacts.

Batteries are easier to replace than starters on most older vehicles...
 
Yeah. I didn't want to buy a new battery until I was close to getting it started. Now that I'm this close, it is time to invest. The battery will be another tough decision. I really want to keep that time correct look with one of the sealed reproduction batteries online (green tops just look right), but I may just go with a Sears Diehard Gold (or whatever equivalent) with a battery topper. It will be about the same price either way. Just don't know the quality of the re-pros.
 
Bought a new group 24 battery from NAPA today (they got good reviews). Crossed my fingers and turned the key- Engine turned over perfectly!!!! All that worrying today!

Thanks! It must take a good 12 volts for it to pull into the flywheel. Now get my radiator and my driveshaft and I'll be ready to start it for the first time!!!!
 
Some of those starters came with a oversized mounting hole. Mine did and I had to use a bushing on the one bolt. I don't remember if it was the lower stud or the top bolt. It came with the starter. Loosen it up and see if you can move the starter in and out on the one bolt. This is a easy check and can be fixed without removing the starter if this is your problem. Mine did the samething and I removed my header tube and starter and I wouldn't have had to. Steve
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top