mopar purpleshaft

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cuhemida

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hey guys im putting a purpleshaft in my small block now my problem i hear 2 different stores about installing the lifters

1: DON'T fill the lifters before installing

2: fill them just like you would any hyd lifter but i hear thats bad for the cam (im told it will wipe the cam)

i hope you guys can help

Tom
 
Correct, do not fill the lifters. Install them with the lube on the base and the cam lobes only. Not the sides of the lifters. Try not to get it on the lifter bores when you install them. Dont turn the engine over much, and then have the engne fire immediately.
 
Here is the advice that was given to me when I installed mine from another member that helped me in the past.

Quote "Well....it's not recommended to pump-up the lifter while submerged in oil prior to install, and there's no need to soak the lifters for 24 hours. Soaking them essentially does the same thing as pumping them up in that it removes all the air in the plunger.

The problem with pumping them up and then preloading the lifter is that if the lifter is slow to bleed then it will keep the valve off the seat until it does bleed, and when you fire-up the engine and oil pressure hits the lifter it's even harder for the plunger to bleed that 1-1/2 turn preload you set.........and the valve sits off the seat and possibly hits the piston. Not to mention the engine runs like crap because half the valves are not sealing. (personal experience).

So here's what I recommend: Wet, dip, role, dunk.... the lifters in oil, the same oil you are going break the cam in with. I suggest Rotella 30w.

Take up the slack until you feel resistance spinning the lifter and turn the adjuster 1-1/2 turns (as per the Mopar engine book). Tighten the adjuster nut to 25 ft.lbs. make sure you have lubricated the pushrod tips and the valve tip along with the pivot hole in the rocker.

Now if you want to put some oil into the lifters prior to start-up, and it's not absolutely necessary, then do what I do. Use an electric drill and a priming shaft to prime the engine. As you are priming the engine with oil pressure turn the crank nice and slow at least two full turns. Do this after you've assembled the rockers, pushrods, and lifters. This fills the lifters with oil and doesn't pump them up so as to lift the valve off the seat". Unquote.

On another note, quality with the mopar cams seams to be hit and miss .... especially with the lifters. After my 484 went flat, I installed a solid roller to avoid this issue. Some say that it is the oil, I have heard good things about the "Joe Gibbs" oil, or even ZR1 Valvoline. Others will chime in shortly and add their comments and recomendations. Good luck!!! Andrew
 
The comp cams catalog has the preload procedure listed. I've always soaked my lifters(hyd), with the either rocker arms, adj& non adjustables and never had a problem.
I'm running a MP solid now, and to start the chime in, I use the compcam break in additive with every oil change..
 
ive never soak them (thats back in the day b s ) lube them put them in prime the engine break in the cam an ride :cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
an the diesel oil you but for big trks still has all the old zink an other stuff in it . some of which has been out the window in the new oils for autos . just went over 750,000 miles an still no issues .(big trk) run it my dart all the time . mech cam 284 /528 purple shaft
 
Not to hijack this thread but Dartman,..how do you like that cam ?? 284/.528 mechanical. What is the rest of your combo with it. Thanks.
Terry
 
the cam is fine . it like a light switch 3000 up pulls very hard . no track time but feels real good .im running a good bit of compression cyc pressure (195) work over x heads 340 torker 2 intake 1" spacer 750 dbl pumper msd . just need to go to a manual shift valve body to get rid of all that throttle pressure linkage .thought about the cable set up but for a couple $ more a valve body is the way I'm going . as far as a convertor you need one for this cam 3000 to 3200 .ive talk to a couple of people on that . one place wanted 750$ for a convertor out of my league i m running a 170 6 cyc convertor in it for the time being works alright an will get one but have to back working more just like every body .
 
Why a purple shaft there are MUCH better cams on the market now...
 
why a purpleshaft for starters i got the cam and lifters new still in the boc for $50.00 so why not lol and im building a street driver with a 518 overdrive trans with 3.27 gears in the rear looking for mid range and fuel mileage and like i say the price was right
 
i also want to thank all the guys that helped here its nice to be in a group of builder that will share what they know with others keep up the good work your all doing in here
 
dartman340ta said:
an the diesel oil you but for big trks still has all the old zink an other stuff in it . some of which has been out the window in the new oils for autos . just went over 750,000 miles an still no issues .(big trk) run it my dart all the time . mech cam 284 /528 purple shaft
Click to expand...

Thats becoming less true. The new diesel oil specs have forced the oil manufacturers to remove zinc from the formulas. Plus a lot of diesel oils also carry a car rating. If it has a car SM rating then it has the same levels of ZDDP as any SM rated car oil.

Shell Rotella's latest diesel oil is one that has reduced levels of ZDDP.
 
cuhemida said:
why a purpleshaft for starters i got the cam and lifters new still in the boc for $50.00
Click to expand...

Wow,thats cheap but it was cheap for a reason,when you want to step up to cams with much better designs go with Lunati,comp..those purpleshafts are old outdated designs...
 
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