More Disc brake swap questions

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bbeep71

bbeep71

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I've looked at many articles for early disc swap and have some questions.
1. Car is 1966 barracuda V8(360) with 10" drums all around with dual M/C conversion
2. Parts are from 1975 dart 6cy. with manual disc brakes(1 piston slider)
3. I know upper control arm is replaced(big ball joint) and 75 spindles need 75 lower ball joints.
QUESTIONS
1. Some say don't relieve tension on torsion bars. Some say just relieve tension on torsion bars and others say relieve tension and move bars back a few inches. What is correct?
2. Will the stock 66 suspension tie rods connect to the new 75 lower ball joints or do I need 75 tie rod ends?
3. Will the M/C push rod now being used for the dual M/C be correct for new disc/drum M/C?
4. Do I need special disc brake 14" rims to fit the new brake setup?
Please advise
 
1. Yes, use the adjusters to take tension off the torsion bars. Otherwise the suspension will unload when you break the taper loose on the ball joints, and that can be violent depending on how much tension is on the bars. Regardless, you'll have to loosen the adjusters to put the suspension back together. You don't need to pull the bars out of the sockets if you back the adjusters all the way out, but sometimes it can make it easier to put things back together.

2. ***edit*** sorry, I may have messed this up. The tie rod ends on a '66 are a different part number. Not sure if it's the taper for the ball joint that's different, I'll have to check.

3. The manual push rod in there now should be fine. There are different lengths for manual and power, not disk vs drum.

4. The center register on drum wheels is smaller than on disk wheels, so yes, if you have drum wheels now you will need later disk wheels with the larger register to fit over the disk hub.
 
Last edited:
A Body Disc Brake Swap 101

Read this.

You can also remove the upper control arm by supporting both the car and using a jack under the Lower control arm to further unweight the sprung tension blunblu speaks of. This can actually help you remove the upper arm when the upper control arm bolts are out, as you can SLOWLY lower the jack under the lower arm when the upper bolts are out and this will sort of pull the upper control arm out of place. I think the link talks about this.

Yes your tie rod end will work, but after you seperate it from the existing set up it will likely Be damaged. The later tie rod ends will also work, and are half the price of the older ones. Change all four and sleeves if you are doing this. It's worth it and cheap. Old style end must be used with old style sleeves and the same applies for 73 and up units. The tapers are the same blunblu.
 
4mulas said:
Yes your tie rod end will work, but after you seperate it from the existing set up it will likely Be damaged. The later tie rod ends will also work, and are half the price of the older ones. Change all four and sleeves if you are doing this. It's worth it and cheap. Old style end must be used with old style sleeves and the same applies for 73 and up units. The tapers are the same blunblu.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I didn't think the taper changed. But all of my cars are '70+ and when I saw it was a different part number I didn't want to mess anybody up. The tie rod end part number change is '70, so, '63-'69 is listed as ES319R and ES319L and '70-'76 is listed as ES401L and ES401R.

Totally agree on the tie rod end, the boots will need to be changed if nothing else because it's hard not to damage them during removal even if they're brand new. And if it's going to be apart and they haven't been changed recently now would be the time to change them.
 
72bluNblu said:
Thanks! I didn't think the taper changed. But all of my cars are '70+ and when I saw it was a different part number I didn't want to mess anybody up. The tie rod end part number change is '70, so, '63-'69 is listed as ES319R and ES319L and '70-'76 is listed as ES401L and ES401R.

Totally agree on the tie rod end, the boots will need to be changed if nothing else because it's hard not to damage them during removal even if they're brand new. And if it's going to be apart and they haven't been changed recently now would be the time to change them.
Click to expand...

Thanks, without looking them up I couldn't remember but thought the change in tie rod end part number was '73 but I stand corrected, it was 1970. So to the OP just change all four with the later '70 and up tie rod ends.
 
When i rebuilt my front end i used 75 new yorker tie rod ends and sleeves. They worked great half the price and twice as big.
 
Yes c body stuff works too when it comes to tie rods.

The only time you have to be concerned about from going early A to late A is if you change the centerlink too. Then you must use the associated idler and pitman arms that go with that link.

Also be ware of which way you mount your calipers when doing a conversion. If your early A has a factory say bar you must mount your 73 and up calipers to the rear. Simply do this by reversing the spindles from side to side. When you do this buy flex hoses from a diplomat or equivalent, they should be 15" long. I also recommend calipers from the same as the inlet is on the bottom and bleeder on the top (easier to bleed) whereas the dart one have both the inlet and bleeder entering the caliper on the top when mounted.

Good luck
 
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