More fuel gauge problems

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1973dusterkid

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Ok so I put all new gauges in my car they are aftermarket equus gauges.I got the fuel gauge that was for mopar 73 empty 10 full and when my gauge shows a little under 1/4 tank I have no gas at all bone dry is it the sending unit.How can I test sending unit (ground it out?)
 
Ok so I put all new gauges in my car they are aftermarket equus gauges.I got the fuel gauge that was for mopar 73 empty 10 full and when my gauge shows a little under 1/4 tank I have no gas at all bone dry is it the sending unit.How can I test sending unit (ground it out?)

Could be

the voltage limiter......replace with one of the fancy new 'lectronic ones

Could be the gauge. after you replace the limiter, test the gauge with known test resistances. Hook 'em one at a time in place of the sender

Go to Rad Shack and buy some "power resistors."

L = 73.7 Ohms (empty)
M = 23.0 Ohms (1/2)
H = 10.2 Ohms (full)

Check the connections on th PC board at the cluster, and check the nut/ stud connections at the temp and gas gauge.

If all this checks out, empty the tank and measure the resistance of the tank sender, should match within a few ohms of the posted resistances.
 
I dont have a limter I have this

dfuster003.jpg


dashnew001.jpg
 
they are aftermarket equus )

I'd get ahold of Equus. Also, many aftermarket fuel and temp gauges actually have THREE terminals. They are known as a "bridge circuit." So the third terminal must have a good ground at the gauge.

Don't the destructions show resistance readings for the sender for empty/ full, etc?

Might have to bend the arm on the sender some, don't know.


Years ago, I had a SW fuel gauge in my old Landcruiser. Worthless. had no needle damping and sloshed around so bad, the only time you could "read" it was when you were parked, and it wasn't accurate, to boot. After about 4 tries, I finally got "empty" set reasonably, but 1/2 and full were never close. This is a simple, rectangular tank, so it should have worked. "We" weren't impressed.
 
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