More Stroker Pictures and some questions?

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northeastmopar

northeastmopar

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Having trouble getting the valve covers to sit without hitting the intake. I don't know what the fix is. It is an Edelbrock Air Gap and Mopar valve covers> Any ideas on how to join them without leaks. I have no gaskets under them right now, so I don't know if I should double up the gaskets or grind something? You can look closely and see the space under the valve covers on the intake side? Anybody else use these valve covers? Also, I have 8MM wires and was wondering how I place wire looms on these valve covers? With the bolts being recessed and going down thru the top, are there wire looms that bolt up somewhere to keep the wires away from the yet to be installed headers?
 

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i had to grind my valve covers also with a similar head/intake combo. You have to 45 degree the bottom of the flange to clear the intake casting... i suppose you could also clearance the intake...however with everything assembled like that, i wasn't about to throw aluminum shavings all over the place. I recommend taking the valve cover gasket and try to get it to lay flat in the correct location. this will give you an idea of where you are hitting metal to metal, as the gasket won't sit correctly, and you can also picture the gasket being your thick v cover flange. helps with the visual.
 
i'd mark the intake, pull it, use a die grinder to remove the problem areas, touch it back up with black paint.

i would not grind the valve covers, as they can be leak prone. since it's aftermarket heads you might be ok, but if it were me i'd pull the intake and trim the high spots
 
moparlover said:
i'd mark the intake, pull it, use a die grinder to remove the problem areas, touch it back up with black paint.

i would not grind the valve covers, as they can be leak prone. since it's aftermarket heads you might be ok, but if it were me i'd pull the intake and trim the high spots
Click to expand...

I may be able to just grind the intake in place if I tape off and cover the head with plastic. It is just very slight touching in only two areas about an inch long. I agree there is probably more to grind on the intake than the valve cover. I guess the best thing is to first get a couple of nice thick valve cover gaskets and see just how much I need to remove.
 
Make a notch in the valve covers........ Piece of cake

Be careful too using the big thick valve cover gaskets. They don't seal up well at all. I glued 2 together before so I didn't need to do the notch and they leaked like a stuck pig. The valve cover rails had a lil tweek in them. Cork have never leaked on me. They are more forgiving when you whoop de doos in the valve cover rail. It was the same covers you are using too.
 
I had this problem. On my 428 X block with Batten heads I had to cut the intake. Also on the 428 with Indy heads I had to cut the intake. Most of the time the gaskets make up the difference. I use the silicone over steel and keep using them for years. With a Bigger 700 and up solid roller your always checking clearance to detect lifter failure before its to late.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I had this problem. On my 428 X block with Batten heads I had to cut the intake. Also on the 428 with Indy heads I had to cut the intake. Most of the time the gaskets make up the difference. I use the silicone over steel and keep using them for years. With a Bigger 700 and up solid roller your always checking clearance to detect lifter failure before its to late.
Click to expand...


Should I go with those Mopar Performance impregnated rubber with the steel center? Are those the gaskets that are 3/16" thick? I was going to try those first to see if they will make the covers clear the intake runners before I start up the die grinder.
 
Looks like your intake is already set....... Cut the valve covers. Job done in less than 5 minutes. Takes longer to mark them than to cut them.
 
Mad Dart said:
Looks like your intake is already set....... Cut the valve covers. Job done in less than 5 minutes. Takes longer to mark them than to cut them.
Click to expand...

Ya, but first I wanted to try and get the best fitting and thickest valve cover gaskets possible. I am looking at Mopar Performance gaskets. I think they are 3/16" thick. I am waiting on replies from anyone using these thick gaskets. They say they are cork impregnated rubber with a steel gasket running thru the center. Maybe with these I will solve the clearance issues rather than cutting into the valve covers. I was even thinking about adding a second gasket to the Mopar gaskets by gluing them together with a rubber cement?
 
You can glue two together and I have done that before. It looks kinda funky though and when I did mine they leaked at the rail using the same valve covers you have. Put a straight edge on the rails of those covers and make sure their not twisted. Mine were fine and did not leak until about 5 minutes into break in on the Dyno then they started spewing oil like crazy all over the motor, headers etc. we aborted the run , cleaned it up and luckily the Dyno operator had a different set od covers so we swapped them out. Scary cause we were breaking in the cam a BIG "solid flat Tappet" we were worried the cam may go flat cause of the short aborted run but luckily all was fine.
I could not imagine cleaning up a big *** mess like that with the engine installed in the car while breaking in the cam on a new motor. It must have pumped 2-3 quarts of oil out. Was an easy clean up on the Dyno.
 
Problem Solved. I installed the FelPro double rubber impregnated cork with the steel gasket in the center. These are like 3/16" thick. They are expensive but they got the covers to sit up plenty enough to clear the intake. I glued them to the cover with permatex gasket cement and was hoping to leave the gasket to head surface dry so I can remove the valve covers in the future without ruining the gaskets which go for almost 50 bucks. Hope that will work. As for the gasket showing, I just took some flat black engine paint and painted the gaskets edge flat black. Blends right in. Should I pu a luight coat or motor oil on the gasket to head surface to get a good seal?
 
okay i may be talking out of my butt but try this i am not sure how much you need to grind but loose the cork gasket both front and rear of the intake and just use the blue or black goo, gasket silicone in place of the gasget and see if it sets the in take down just enough to clear the valve covers. i have never used the the cork intake gaskets. hope this helps
 
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