Moroso water pump.......

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Cudafever

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When i first started having overheating problems, was when i ditch the fan, fan clutch, and fan, for one of these moroso belt driven electric water pumps (Moroso 63750)
I have keep it and just delt with it becouse of the .10 in et that it gave me.
I never diven on the street any more and so i have just put up with the short drive time and lots of cool down time.

long story short,....I was reading an artical about how chry waterpumps actuly quit pumping water around 4500 rpm and how to make then flow to 6000. He also talked about the ratio and those that turned over 6000 should us a differant ratio so that it didn't turn the water pump over 6000 rpm.

This got me thinking about my electric water pump drive........... they sell a larger pulley, that incresses the water pump speed, that I install long a go.

Why all this Bla Bla Bla?

Well i have a snap-on tool that you can tell the rpm of anything by simply installing a refective piece of tape and it will give the rpm.

So one reflective tape on the electric motor that drive the factory water pump thru a belt. and a 2nt on on the water pump.

Any guess as to just how FAST that water pump was turning............:shaking2:

Nope not even close!!!!!!

950 RPM! AND THAT WAS WITH A FULL CHARGED BATTERY!
No wonder it take me so long to cool down the eng. I have been blaming my issuse on the electric fans and it's that d a m pump!

O and by the way the electric motor only turn 1900 rpm

Here is a picture of it.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B000CON23Q/ref=dp_otherviews_z_2?ie=UTF8&img=2&s=automotive"]Amazon.com: Moroso 63750 Electric Water Pump Drive Kit[/ame]
 
That was the first thing I replaced when I bought my car in 2000. I use the Moroso electric pump and have never had an issue.
 
So the Mechanical pump was spinning at 950rpm? Usually spins what the idle is no? But the moroso helped? And it dropped your et .10? Nice!

Your post is kind of confusing for me anyways. I can't tell if you stated with a Moroso or went to it. Or if you had and then added the bigger pulley. Please help sorry haha
 
Cudafever said:
When i first started having overheating problems, was when i ditch the fan, fan clutch, and fan, for one of these moroso belt driven electric water pumps (Moroso 63750)
I have keep it and just delt with it becouse of the .10 in et that it gave me.
I never diven on the street any more and so i have just put up with the short drive time and lots of cool down time.

long story short,....I was reading an artical about how chry waterpumps actuly quit pumping water around 4500 rpm and how to make then flow to 6000. He also talked about the ratio and those that turned over 6000 should us a differant ratio so that it didn't turn the water pump over 6000 rpm.

This got me thinking about my electric water pump drive........... they sell a larger pulley, that incresses the water pump speed, that I install long a go.

Why all this Bla Bla Bla?

Well i have a snap-on tool that you can tell the rpm of anything by simply installing a refective piece of tape and it will give the rpm.

So one reflective tape on the electric motor that drive the factory water pump thru a belt. and a 2nt on on the water pump.

Any guess as to just how FAST that water pump was turning............:shaking2:

Nope not even close!!!!!!

950 RPM! AND THAT WAS WITH A FULL CHARGED BATTERY!
No wonder it take me so long to cool down the eng. I have been blaming my issuse on the electric fans and it's that d a m pump!

O and by the way the electric motor only turn 1900 rpm

Here is a picture of it.
Amazon.com: Moroso 63750 Electric Water Pump Drive Kit
Click to expand...

So the chry waterpump stops pumping at 4500 rpm ? So if I cruise at 85-90 mph I have no water flowing through the pump ? Or is it the clutch fan that stops spinning at 4500 rpm , that would make moire sense
And @6000 plus , well don't keep my motor spinning @ 6000+ for very long
 
Cudafever said:
long story short,....I was reading an artical about how chry waterpumps actuly quit pumping water around 4500 rpm and how to make then flow to 6000. He also talked about the ratio and those that turned over 6000 should us a differant ratio so that it didn't turn the water pump over 6000 rpm.
Click to expand...

what? im pretty sure my water pump is pumping water then entire time my engine is running regardless of the RPM.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
It's a mechanical, belt driven, pump.

If the engine is running, it's pumping water, at all RPMs.
Click to expand...

X2

take one of those water pumps off and grab the blades and the part where the fan and pully bolt up. try twisting. its pretty clear its solid all the way through. it will be spinning any time the engine is. I would venture to guess at 4500rpm the pump reaches it maximum flow and stops increasing in flow. not stops entirely.
 
Your going about this backwards. First off, factory pumps wern't designed to run at 4500+ rpm's. They are the most efficient at low speeds. Performance/race pumps are actully built to slow circulation at high r's. Slower is better, more dwell time for the coolant to pick up heat from the engine and more time in the radiator to dissapate it. Radiator capacity, fan diameter and cfm are the determining factors for cool down speed. Also, depending on the thermostat used, it will become a restriction the cooler it gets. What are your expectations? if your hot lapping, the only way to cool quickly is to drain and refill. Speaking of electric fans, many will run both ways depending on how the're wired. Make sure it's turning in the proper direction.
 
69MOPE said:
Read here http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70569
Click to expand...

Yes thats the one i got my info from......read it and make up you own mind if the pump quits pumping water a 4500 rpm

It's good to here some one had good luck with this water pump!!!


As far as my confusing post Sorry....
I when from the factory pump/clutch and fan to a the elect water pump alu radiator and duel electrice fans

Was reading sandborn post and it got me thinking about what rpm my electic water pump was turn and deside to share what i found.
 
jerry6 said:
So the chry waterpump stops pumping at 4500 rpm ? So if I cruise at 85-90 mph I have no water flowing through the pump ? Or is it the clutch fan that stops spinning at 4500 rpm , that would make moire sense
And @6000 plus , well don't keep my motor spinning @ 6000+ for very long
Click to expand...

73AbodEE said:
what? im pretty sure my water pump is pumping water then entire time my engine is running regardless of the RPM.
Click to expand...

1968FormulaS340 said:
It's a mechanical, belt driven, pump.

If the engine is running, it's pumping water, at all RPMs.
Click to expand...

OldmanRick said:
Your going about this backwards. First off, factory pumps wern't designed to run at 4500+ rpm's. They are the most efficient at low speeds. Performance/race pumps are actully built to slow circulation at high r's. Slower is better, more dwell time for the coolant to pick up heat from the engine and more time in the radiator to dissapate it. Radiator capacity, fan diameter and cfm are the determining factors for cool down speed. Also, depending on the thermostat used, it will become a restriction the cooler it gets. What are your expectations? if your hot lapping, the only way to cool quickly is to drain and refill. Speaking of electric fans, many will run both ways depending on how the're wired. Make sure it's turning in the proper direction.
Click to expand...

Oldmanrick you got me thing about the rotation and the fact that my water pump could be turning the wrong way as well......... had to go double check. Well there not! but it was a vary good thought!!!!

yes you can spin a pump to the point that it quits Pumping. it called cavitate. basically bubbles cause by a high vac on the suction side of the pump caused the water to BOIL. NOW, before any body else decide to throw the BS flag out on this one. Heres a video the shows my point. It's a short video:D

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EN2_IibETns"]VI. Boiling water at room temperature - YouTube[/ame]

If you can make room temp water boil at 27" of vacuum.......It would take vary little vacuum on the suction side of the water pump to cause it to boil aka cavitate at running temp.............
 
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