Motor plate question

[max512wedge]

A little info: Using a motor plate on my 512 Victor headed engine in my 72 duster with 2 inch Tti headers and I have to raise engine about a 1/2 inch higher to fit. question 1). Can I just bolt the motor plate to the uni frame as I don’t want to weld it in as the engine bay is all painted and pretty. 2) if I can bolt it in how would you recommend doing it. 3) the motor is about 685 hp with maybe 150 shot down the road. Thanks guys

 

[-Boosted-]

Following.

 

[ch1ll]

Is this the first time you had a high horse power engine in your car?

 

[max512wedge]

Is this the first time you had a high horse power engine in your car?

Yes sir I’ve had some 400 hp cars before but nothing like this. This will be my fastest and first time on a track. I’ve stopped light raced years ago when someone would pull up next to me. I probably overdone it hp wise for my first street/race car but heck we only live once.

 

[67Dart273]

However you configure it, I would want the plate on top of the frame or bracket so you can "set it down" rather than arguing with bolts alignment on a hoist. And be sure the plate is in FRONT of hardware, / bracket, rather than behind, or you won't (necessarily) be able to lift it up and over, to pull it out, without separating the trans first

 

[Just Send It]

However you configure it, I would want the plate on top of the frame or bracket so you can "set it down" rather than arguing with bolts alignment on a hoist. And be sure the plate is in FRONT of hardware, / bracket, rather than behind, or you won't (necessarily) be able to lift it up and over, to pull it out, without separating the trans first

Sage advice right here in Bold. I've seen guys put the plates behind the brackets and it was like threading a needle to lower the motor back in.

I'm not 100% on the receiver brackets having to be welded to the body. I'm interested in the answer as well. I swear I've seen some that were bolted before.

 

[Locomotion]

The motor plate should be no less than 1/4" aluminum. Not sure about the thickness of a steel plate but it would be stronger than aluminum.

MUST HAVE limiters to keep the engine/trans from moving back & forth on acceleration & braking.

Trans mount in good shape? Might be better to go poly but definitely not solid.

Rechecked the driveshaft angles after lifting the engine that 1/2"?

Not sure about a mid-plate. It would involve more work with converter, headers & starter and R&R everything. But with the HP and speed involved, I'd feel better having it over-engineered rather than under. It can help reduce twisting.

As for the receiver brackets, I think welding the brackets and spreading them out over the side covering a bigger area of the frame would be best. That unibody 50+ year old frame isn't all that thick, possibly rusty on the inside and not designed for all that HP.

Got roll bars going to the front of the frame to reduce twisting?

Got pics to help us see what's going on so we can better recommend what you might need to do?

 

[MOPARMAGA]

A little info: Using a motor plate on my 512 Victor headed engine in my 72 duster with 2 inch Tti headers and I have to raise engine about a 1/2 inch higher to fit. question 1). Can I just bolt the motor plate to the uni frame as I don’t want to weld it in as the engine bay is all painted and pretty. 2) if I can bolt it in how would you recommend doing it. 3) the motor is about 685 hp with maybe 150 shot down the road. Thanks guys

https://arengineering.com/products/bracket-kit-motor-platesYou
You can use these & make spacers that go on your frame.
Mancini and Hughes sell them.

 

[33IMP]

Both of my cars with motor plates have the frame mounts welded on. But, I don't see why you couldn't bolt an angle mount to the frame, with a couple grade eight thru bolts on each side going all the way thru the the front subframe. I'd double nut or cotter pin the bottom of the thru bolts.
My one car has an old hurst front mount setup, (steel) and a steel mid mount plate, with an add-on trans crossmember that probably isn't necessary..... but I built one anyway.
My mopar has a pair of elephant ears that I made, and they work..... but if I was doing it again, I'd buy the AR engineering one piece plate.

 

[ch1ll]

With that kind of horsepower and torque, I would be looking into reinforcing the frame, cage, down bars, and subframe connectors. Especially in a unibody car of that age.

Nice looking engine.

 

[MHEAD]

How and where do you guys install the limiters?
Guy at the track told me he ties back the two eyelets at the back of the trans to the cross member.
Any pics guys?