moulding holes--How to weld
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Harbor freight has a piece of copper on a handle For this. hold it behind the hole and weld. The weld won't stick to the copper.
Crap, never thought about HF having anything like that. I ended up at the local hardware store buying the smallest piece of copper sheeting I could get away with.
gtsdon
Well-Known Member
Find a nail that has the same size head as the hole you are welding up. Hold on to the shank during welding and cut it off when you are done. Less welding = less heat related warp.
if its a trim moulding hole then its not that big ....I tried getting behind the holes and you just cant unless you have two people on it and even then.
I ended up just putting the mig wire across the hole and arcing it easy ....and made what looked like cross hairs with the mig wire by just arcing the wire across the hole, then filled it in by pushing the molten puddle to the hole edge ...didn't really need to get behind it and after grinding and sanding, cant even tell it was ever there.
main thing is patience ...each hole is going to take awhile if you want to minimize warping and get it filled in complete
I ended up just putting the mig wire across the hole and arcing it easy ....and made what looked like cross hairs with the mig wire by just arcing the wire across the hole, then filled it in by pushing the molten puddle to the hole edge ...didn't really need to get behind it and after grinding and sanding, cant even tell it was ever there.
main thing is patience ...each hole is going to take awhile if you want to minimize warping and get it filled in complete
Where I could hold the copper in place it worked great. Where I couldn't, I did what Rani said, work slowly and built it up, filling it in. Like she said, the key is PATIENCE.
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Genius!!!!!!!!
In stead of hunting for copper sheet I just took a 6" piece of copper tubing and flattened it out. Then I bent a 90* angle in it so I had a handle. Works perfectly.
I also have a few chunks of aluminum. That works just as well.
Just a tip. If you can, try to weld from the back side and have you copper on the finish side. If you hold it nice and tight to the metal the weld will be nice and flat and you'll have less finish work (grinding) to do.
Ted
I also have a few chunks of aluminum. That works just as well.
Just a tip. If you can, try to weld from the back side and have you copper on the finish side. If you hold it nice and tight to the metal the weld will be nice and flat and you'll have less finish work (grinding) to do.
Ted
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
Most copper tubing is copper coated steel. Tried that once and the weld penetrated through the copper and welded the tubing to what I was fixing.
Like stated before use a 16 penny raw steel nail and tack weld around the head allowing the metal to cool before each tack. Done!!!
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
little 3/4 x 3/4 piece of steel and just spot weld it
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I don't know where you've been buying copper tube, but I certainly would not say "most." Nothing I've bought that was bought "as copper" is steel.
64 SRT8 Dart
Well-Known Member
I wish the p/o of my car had taken the time to do this...he used green tape and bondo....
It's all coming out now...couldn't see it when I bought the car but he did the whole car this way...including emblem holes.
It's all coming out now...couldn't see it when I bought the car but he did the whole car this way...including emblem holes.
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
Good ol Home Depot copper water line! Believe it or not! Been there, done that.
Best bet is the Harbor Freight copper welding spoon, done!
I use brass rod stock. I/2" diameter, hold the end of it over the hole and tack away.
I have to fill the moulding holes in the rocker panels and they are inaccessable from the back. I was just going to try and work from the edges in to fill them. The nail idea is excellent. I already had the flattened copper pipe to use for the holes at the bottom of the front fenders.
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