mounting battery in trunk
- Thread starter Wire
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I would definitely vent it !. explosive fumes, 2. corrosion issues from the fumes.
mad accountant
Well-Known Member
Check out this page:
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tm-1.shtml
It's a kit with everything you need, but you can replace the parts in the kit with your own like I did. At the bottom is a diagram for wiring the solenoid into the system so the starter wire isn't constantly hot, the part labelled MAD ST#1 is just a Ford starter solenoid. Under the hood you can use the existing starter relay as your terminal block, unless you have lots of extra wiring for headlight relays and such. Make sure the battery is mounted in a vented box in the trunk.
There are plenty of diagrams posted in the electrical forum, too, but I stink at narrowing down a search without getting thousands of results so I've got nothing for you there. Someone else will probably post one.
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tm-1.shtml
It's a kit with everything you need, but you can replace the parts in the kit with your own like I did. At the bottom is a diagram for wiring the solenoid into the system so the starter wire isn't constantly hot, the part labelled MAD ST#1 is just a Ford starter solenoid. Under the hood you can use the existing starter relay as your terminal block, unless you have lots of extra wiring for headlight relays and such. Make sure the battery is mounted in a vented box in the trunk.
There are plenty of diagrams posted in the electrical forum, too, but I stink at narrowing down a search without getting thousands of results so I've got nothing for you there. Someone else will probably post one.
This was my solution, with a lot of help from Del. Note though that this diagram does not include a bypass of the stock amp gauge.
I used this cut off switch
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74102/overview/
This continuous duty relay
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74107/overview/
And this battery relocation kit. I needed a couple small lengths of battery cable to make it work, but that will depend on where you put everything. The long length in the kit was enough to run from the switch to the starter, but not long enough to have "extra" to use for the starter to starter solenoid, solenoid to CDR, or cut-off to the battery.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231-k/overview/
I used this cut off switch
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74102/overview/
This continuous duty relay
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74107/overview/
And this battery relocation kit. I needed a couple small lengths of battery cable to make it work, but that will depend on where you put everything. The long length in the kit was enough to run from the switch to the starter, but not long enough to have "extra" to use for the starter to starter solenoid, solenoid to CDR, or cut-off to the battery.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231-k/overview/
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
The box venting tube needs to be to the outside of the car (through the floor), to keep the acidic/explosive vapors outside of the car interior. Otherwise, make sure the trunk area is well vented to the outside.
A good start is the NHRA rules, which if you look around you can download.
Here, the "general" rules
nhra.com/UserFiles/file/General_Regulations.pdf
If the battery is in a plastic box, you must have a steel or aluminum firewall between the trunk and passenger compartment.
Otherwise, you can put the battery in a VENTED (NHRA approved?) steel box.
The battery must have a cutoff, and it must be in the hot lead, not the ground. The reasons for the complications in the diagram (Crackedback also has a good one) is so the alternator will not cause the engine to "run on."
In any case read the rules
Here, the "general" rules
nhra.com/UserFiles/file/General_Regulations.pdf
If the battery is in a plastic box, you must have a steel or aluminum firewall between the trunk and passenger compartment.
Otherwise, you can put the battery in a VENTED (NHRA approved?) steel box.
The battery must have a cutoff, and it must be in the hot lead, not the ground. The reasons for the complications in the diagram (Crackedback also has a good one) is so the alternator will not cause the engine to "run on."
In any case read the rules
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