Mounting Calipers back of Rotor

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Oklacarcollecto said:
Complete left spindle and all other parts excluding the ball joint installed on the right. Right on the left. Then locate longer brake hoses. There is more than one thread that gives more details in you use the search. I have seen the brake hose part number and application they are using in other threads.

If you swap spindles only the bleeder will be on the bottom of the caliper.
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I use 73+ b body hoses
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Would you please post a picture? I can't vision this in my head.
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Ok, here you go. As you will notice, the F-body brake lhose is attached to the caliper by a banjo fitting and hollow bolt. That fitting has a little bit of hard line that transitions to rubber line that attaches to the car's hard line. I had to tilt it up to keep it from binding when I made turns. Photo is from the back looking forward with the left wheel turned to the right.
caliper.jpg
 
Mopar engineers designed a caliper for rear hung applications. The bleeder is on top and the hose inlet is on the bottom facing to the rear.

I covered this topic in depth in my B-body book. I see so many hacked up brake swaps where people use the wrong caliper and have messed up hose routings that I figured I needed to show people how to do it correctly.
 
are there any other advantages other than "slightly" better weight distribution that would make this swap worth-while to the average joe?
 
dusterdan said:
are there any other advantages other than "slightly" better weight distribution that would make this swap worth-while to the average joe?
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I can't imagine the weight distribution changing in any noticeable way at all. The difference between running with half a tank of gas vs a full tank would be much greater. If you can't tell the difference in handling after you fill up, you'd never notice this. The center of gravity of the caliper isn't even moving the entire diameter of the rotor, you might be moving the caliper all of 8". Might not even be that far.

As far as other advantages, the biggest one that I can think of is clearance for the front sway bar on the pre-'73 cars, the '73+ calipers tend to interfere with the end links. But that's only if you keep the pre-'73 K member and sway bar.
 
what little there is to gain if any I cant see it.there are other things you could do that would do more..I'm still trying to figure out why you would want more than a 50/50 wgt.transfer..unless your building a 1/4 mil.wheel stander :eek:ops:LOL......Artie .................................... referring to post #31
 
72blunblu said:
i can't imagine the weight distribution changing in any noticeable way at all. The difference between running with half a tank of gas vs a full tank would be much greater. If you can't tell the difference in handling after you fill up, you'd never notice this. The center of gravity of the caliper isn't even moving the entire diameter of the rotor, you might be moving the caliper all of 8". Might not even be that far.

As far as other advantages, the biggest one that i can think of is clearance for the front sway bar on the pre-'73 cars, the '73+ calipers tend to interfere with the end links. But that's only if you keep the pre-'73 k member and sway bar.
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A-body hoses have the hard line built in to reach the line mount on the rear of the frame when the calipers are on the front. F body do not because the caliper and the hose-mount on the frame are both on the front.
 
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