MSD & Ballast Resistor Question

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KP

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I have had my Ballast Resistor in-line with my MSD box since I installed it 4 years ago. A friend of my has (had) the same configuration and his MSD box started to miss fire. At first he did not know it was the box until he replaced all the spark plugs, wires, installed a new MSD distributor and finally the box… He contacted MSD to ask them what may have caused it to miss fire because normally the boxes tend to just die. MSD ask him if he had taken the Ballast Resistor out of line and told him they can cause this issue. Has anyone ever heard of this?

KP
 
Yes, Pertronix boxes do not use them and I don't think MSD does either. Call MSD tech support to be sure.
 
Anyone Here Have Their Ballast Resistor In-Line With Their MSD Box?
 
If it's routed wrong through the ballast it could cause a problem is what I'm saying.
Jump the lead to the ballast feed in and see what happens.
 
Anyone Here Have Their Ballast Resistor In-Line With Their MSD Box?

The MSD wiring instructions show the ballast resistor in the circuit. BUT, it is only for the trigger wire that turns it on/off. The trigger does not require much current and will work reliably with the ballast in the circuit.

I jumpered the two ballast resistor connectors together and elminated it just to get rid of a potential point of failure.
 
You need to understand how a MSD or CD or Capacitor discharge system works:

The capacitor in the box takes the 14V from the battery and converts it to 400-440V. When triggered the 440V is fired at the coil, the coil then converts it to 10,000 to 40,000 volts or whatever it takes to force the electrical charge to jump from the electrode to the ground strap on the spark plug.

If you reduce the Voltage by way of a ballast resistor you'll only get 6V to the box and everything is cut in 1/2. When under full load this low voltage will cause a misfire.

Now bear in mind that with any ignition system whether it's a CD or ECU it will only build enough voltage to jump that spark so it doesn't matter if you run a ballast as long as you never build high cylinder pressure and dense fuel loads within the combustion chamber (which create high resistance) to resist the output of the coil.

For example, at light cruise a mild street motor with a plug gap of .035 may only need 10-12KV to jump, the wider the plug gap the higher voltage required so if you gap them at say .050 it may take 25,000V to jump.

Now a car with about 13:1 compression at WOT and 7000 RPM with a gap of .045 will take 34,000V to jump with Cylinder pressure at around 3000PSI (We test with nitrogen Tank)

A simple way to explain a ECU or stock Mopar Electronic system…the ECU has a dwell or recharge time built into it, so between each signal sent by the pick-up coil in your distributor the coil receives a re-charge, when triggered by the transistor in the ECU the coil releases the voltage stored and fires the plug. Each type of coil has a very specific job to do, one is basically and inverter and one is a storage unit, they can be interchanged but will not work to there potential when used on a system they aren’t designed for.

So here's where all the advertising is sort of misleading..... "80,000V Ignition"...why? If we already know that most of the cars owned by people on this site will only require a maximum of 34-38KV then why do we need a 80KV system? Truth is You Don't, it doesn’t matter what the system is capable of, that spark will jump when the voltage gets strong enough to jump to the ground strap, excessive opening up of plug gaps only over loads the coil and shortens it’s life.

There's a lot more to all this then I have time to explain in a quick reply but I will close by saying IMO and after many years of testing ECU type Ignition on various engines most cars that run MSD or any other CD ignition is just plain overkill. It's all about resistance within the combustion chamber and how much voltage it takes to get that spark to jump and too get it hot enough to ignite the fuel.

With today’s high quality fuels that contain more additives and alky than gasoline a wider plug gap and an ignition system capable of producing a hotter spark is important but a CD ignition is seldom necessary to achieve that. I know of several cars that run 10 flats in the ¼ mile with an ECU and good coil. Of course these are not Mopar ECU’s and coils and they don’t run at 6V with a 1.2 ohm ballast. It’s all about the recharge time and of course more voltage in = More voltage out.

So the answer to your question is “No, you do not run a ballast resistor with any CD Ignition System”
 
Anyone Here Have Their Ballast Resistor In-Line With Their MSD Box?

yes, I do. But after reading some of this and conversations I've had with people before I'm thinking maybe I shouldn't lol my car never really has run perfect or really close to it. . . hmmm
 
Anyone Here Have Their Ballast Resistor In-Line With Their MSD Box?

No, you are suppose to bypass them when installing an MSD box since the MSD requires a minimum 12 volts. You will get this kind of miss firing when you get a low battery also.
 
WIRE FUNCTIONS​
These are the two heavy gauge wires (12 gauge) and are
responsible for getting direct battery voltage to the Ignition. The
ignition has an internal fuse so no fuse is necessary.
This wire connects directly to the battery positive (+) terminal or to
a positive battery junction or the positive side of the starter solenoid.​
Note:​
Never connect the alternator.
This wire connects to a good ground, either at the battery negative
(-) terminal or to the engine.

Connects to a switched 12 volt source. Such as the ignition key or switch.I stoped hear because MSD do not tell you to connect the switched wire to the Ballast Resistor .This switched wire needs 12 volts.The wire that comes from the +switch to the Ballast Resistor go,s to the red small wire at the MSD box.Not after the Ballast Resistor.Why reinvent the wheel.
 
WIRE FUNCTIONS​
These are the two heavy gauge wires (12 gauge) and are
responsible for getting direct battery voltage to the Ignition. The
ignition has an internal fuse so no fuse is necessary.
This wire connects directly to the battery positive (+) terminal or to
a positive battery junction or the positive side of the starter solenoid.​
Note:​
Never connect the alternator.
This wire connects to a good ground, either at the battery negative
(-) terminal or to the engine.

Connects to a switched 12 volt source. Such as the ignition key or switch.I stoped hear because MSD do not tell you to connect the switched wire to the Ballast Resistor .This switched wire needs 12 volts.The wire that comes from the +switch to the Ballast Resistor go,s to the red small wire at the MSD box.Not after the Ballast Resistor.Why reinvent the wheel.


I think this is where some guys get mixed up. They think just because they have the 12 gauge wires hook directly to 12 volts they forget to bypass the ballast for the switch wire which also needs a minimum 12 volts, it will work but can cause false symptoms when it doesn't get a full 12 volts.
 
I have the MSD6AL on my daily driver '68 Dart/ 383 engine.

MSD Blaster II coil, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor, MSD wires.

I run through the OEM Ballast resistor.

Never any issue whatsoever in 4 years of street only miles...
 
I have the MSD6AL on my daily driver '68 Dart/ 383 engine.

MSD Blaster II coil, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor, MSD wires.

I run through the OEM Ballast resistor.

Never any issue whatsoever in 4 years of street only miles...


Thank You! Mine has been on my 71 Duster for at least 3 years...

KP
 
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