Msd ignition 6al with pro distributor

[1967 Dodge Dart]

Hello, I am trying to wire this 67 dart someone converted it to electrical and I got it with all kinds of wires cut. Do I need the resistor hooked up with the msd ignition? Can I get rid of the resistor all together? Also the wires are cut to voltage regulator the one coming from alternator is there and hooked up but the other one is just dangling where would this go?
Thank you in advance

 

[67Dart273]

I don't understand "which wire" you are talking about. Color and or photo will help

Go over to MyMopar and download a service manual. You may have to settle for Plymouth vs Dodge

Also go to the "wiring" section and download the 2 page aftermarket diagram. These are not as complete, and don't show all options and connectors, but can be easier to follow

Here is the deal with MSD

You don't need the ballast. If you jumper around the ballast, you can use the original coil + wire to feed the "small red" on the MSD which is a "power on" wire. Main power is the big black (ground) and big red (power) You want to fuse the big rid and hook that direct to battery power such as the big stud on your starter relay. Be careful that is "hot" at all times

When you get the ballast wiring identified, you want to make certain that the VR IGN terminal is still powered with key on as well as the ballast connection. One end should be dark blue, the other end two wires together, I think a blue and brown. The brown is important it comes from the key "coil bypass" circuit known as IGN 2 So you must end up with the dark blue and brown together

This is because the key switched "run" power GOES DEAD during cranking, and the brown is what powers ignition for starting. Originally, that brown bypassed the resistor and fed full "hot" power to the coil during cranking.

Ground the "big black" from the MSD to a good ground. Make CERTAIN you have a good ground from the battery or block to the body. One good way to do this is to look at your front pass. head where the alternator mounts. These same holes in the head are on the firewall side of the head on the drivers side. Bolt a short "starter" cable (like used on Ford) about a foot long to a short bolt in the back of the head, and bolt the other end to something good and tight on the firewall--like the master cylinder mounting studs

 

[67Dart273]

VR wiring is simple on these

The VR MUST be grounded. MUST

It has one terminal IGN for ignition, hookes into the dark blue switched 'run" wire coming from the key

The green hooks to the opposite terminal and goes to the flag 'push on" field terminal on the alternator

The large black hooks to the alternator stud, and goes in through the bulkhead to the ammeter and back out to the battery

BE CAREFUL the big alternator BLACK wire is NOT FUSED and is ALWAYS HOT with power

Mopar VR. Notice the left side terminal in this photo SAYS IGN and is a push on "flag" terminal. That goes to the dark blue "ignition run" from the key

The terminal on the right, the screw terminal, hooks to the green field wire and goes to the alternator FIELD connection, which is a push on "flag" terminal on the alternator.

 

[1967 Dodge Dart]

I don't understand "which wire" you are talking about. Color and or photo will help

Go over to MyMopar and download a service manual. You may have to settle for Plymouth vs Dodge

Also go to the "wiring" section and download the 2 page aftermarket diagram. These are not as complete, and don't show all options and connectors, but can be easier to follow

Here is the deal with MSD

You don't need the ballast. If you jumper around the ballast, you can use the original coil + wire to feed the "small red" on the MSD which is a "power on" wire. Main power is the big black (ground) and big red (power) You want to fuse the big rid and hook that direct to battery power such as the big stud on your starter relay. Be careful that is "hot" at all times

When you get the ballast wiring identified, you want to make certain that the VR IGN terminal is still powered with key on as well as the ballast connection. One end should be dark blue, the other end two wires together, I think a blue and brown. The brown is important it comes from the key "coil bypass" circuit known as IGN 2 So you must end up with the dark blue and brown together

This is because the key switched "run" power GOES DEAD during cranking, and the brown is what powers ignition for starting. Originally, that brown bypassed the resistor and fed full "hot" power to the coil during cranking.

Ground the "big black" from the MSD to a good ground. Make CERTAIN you have a good ground from the battery or block to the body. One good way to do this is to look at your front pass. head where the alternator mounts. These same holes in the head are on the firewall side of the head on the drivers side. Bolt a short "starter" cable (like used on Ford) about a foot long to a short bolt in the back of the head, and bolt the other end to something good and tight on the firewall--like the master cylinder mounting studs

Thanks for the info. Can you message me your number and I can text you the Pictures my phone wont upload them to this page. The person that had it before me has a hack of wiring job going on. I bought a wiring diagram and have matched some of the wires up but since I am going msd just wasn't sure of all that was needed and what everything is. I can take pics of all this stuff and hopefully get it figured out. I know the amp meter wire melted at some point is why the wiring was all hacked up so its not even hooked up now.
Thank you for responding

 

[67Dart273]

Sure........get the service manual downloaded from MyMopar and then call me. I'll send you a message

By the way don't text photos. My phone is a flip. I'll give you my email when you call

 

[1967 Dodge Dart]

Sure........get the service manual downloaded from MyMopar and then call me. I'll send you a message

By the way don't text photos. My phone is a flip. I'll give you my email when you call

 

[67Dart273]

OK slight change in plan. Someone has installed a 70/ later voltage regulator so the alternator MUST have 2 insulated field wires. This system started in 1970 The wire on the "top" of the upside down V shape of the VR connector goes to the dark blue ignition, and the green to the right goes to the alternator field (either one) and then the remaining alternator field ties back into dark blue "switched" ignition

 

[1967 Dodge Dart]

OK slight change in plan. Someone has installed a 70/ later voltage regulator so the alternator MUST have 2 insulated field wires. This system started in 1970 The wire on the "top" of the upside down V shape of the VR connector goes to the dark blue ignition, and the green to the right goes to the alternator field (either one) and then the remaining alternator field ties back into dark blue "switched" ignition

 

[67Dart273]

That looks OK. Be sure that the red has +12 with key in "run" The big black should go to the big black going through the bulkhead. Not sure at this point why you have a loose end?

Be careful with all this. NONE of this is fused except for the main fuse link, and it may not "blow" before some of the wiring is burned/ melted

 

[1967 Dodge Dart]

That looks OK. Be sure that the red has +12 with key in "run" The big black should go to the big black going through the bulkhead. Not sure at this point why you have a loose end?

So I am assuming the big black at some point melted the bulk head connection, It is completely burnt on both ends of the bulk head connector. I was going to try and wire it back and solder it to the the same wire and bypass the bulk head connector on that wire. I guess my debacle is that the wiring is not the same as what diagrams show and I am used to gm products which have internal voltage regulators and 1 wire hook ups for distributors. So this Mopar stuff is a learning curve.

 

[67Dart273]

The ammeter is for sure an issue as is the bulkhead connector. Read this article. Even if you don't do this mod, or if you don't do this mod as they lay out, this article is a very good overview, and the diagram is a great simplification of the main power distro

Catalog

You can buy the terminals used in the connectors, they are known variously as "Packard 56 or 58"

When replacing the female ones make sure they are correct and look exactly like the old ones with the "wrap around" at the sides.......

See here

Links to reasonably priced electrical terminals and housings.

 

[67Dart273]

Here's a couple other things to be aware of, part of which I glossed over

On GM or Ford, many years the ignition "run" goes "DEAD" during cranking. The power to the ignition system is provided during crank by the "I" terminal on the solenoid, or with Ford, the fender mount relay

Mopar does that different. The key switch has the usual "ACCESSORY" output, and the usual "START" output, but it has IGN1 (run) and IGN2 (brown bypass)

The IGN1 goes dead during cranking and is ONLY hot with the key in the "run" position. This is the dark blue "run" circuit which goes from the key, out through the bulkhead, and powers the Ignition system and the VR / field wiring of the alternator

The IGN2 at the key is "hot" IN START just like the yellow start wire EXCEPT that these are two different switch contacts and different circuits, to prevent "feedback" problems

So this IGN2 originally went to the coil + side of the ballast resistor, and supplied full battery V from the key during start

With an MSD or other system NOT using a ballast, you need to jumper the IGN1 and IGN2 together

 

[1967 Dodge Dart]

Here's a couple other things to be aware of, part of which I glossed over

On GM or Ford, many years the ignition "run" goes "DEAD" during cranking. The power to the ignition system is provided during crank by the "I" terminal on the solenoid, or with Ford, the fender mount relay

Mopar does that different. The key switch has the usual "ACCESSORY" output, and the usual "START" output, but it has IGN1 (run) and IGN2 (brown bypass)

The IGN1 goes dead during cranking and is ONLY hot with the key in the "run" position. This is the dark blue "run" circuit which goes from the key, out through the bulkhead, and powers the Ignition system and the VR / field wiring of the alternator

The IGN2 at the key is "hot" IN START just like the yellow start wire EXCEPT that these are two different switch contacts and different circuits, to prevent "feedback" problems

So this IGN2 originally went to the coil + side of the ballast resistor, and supplied full battery V from the key during start

With an MSD or other system NOT using a ballast, you need to jumper the IGN1 and IGN2 together

So I did notice that they have the brown and the bluewhite wire soldered together. Not sure why. I wish you were closer I would just pay you to come and figure out this mess.
Thanks for all the info

 

[67Dart273]

Keep at it I can talk you through this. I'll be kickin around tomorrow. I get up around 7AM will be ?? 10? your time?

One other thought the diagram you have is NOT factory, rather an aftermarket diagram. Nothing wrong, but it will be hard if the two of us are not looking at the same ones. So if you get the ones downloaded I posted earlier will help We can be "on the same page"

 

[1967 Dodge Dart]

Keep at it I can talk you through this. I'll be kickin around tomorrow. I get up around 7AM will be ?? 10? your time?

One other thought the diagram you have is NOT factory, rather an aftermarket diagram. Nothing wrong, but it will be hard if the two of us are not looking at the same ones. So if you get the ones downloaded I posted earlier will help We can be "on the same page"

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[67Dart273]

A POST car to boot!!! Good goin!! What we talked about with windshield gaskets...........bear in mind that front/ rear glass in a post car is DIFFERENT than a hardtop. If you go with 68/ later gasket/ chrome, that might even make it easier to find because "I think" the 4dr sedan stuff is same size as 2 dr post.

Enjoyed talkin with you. Its barely into the 50's F up here in the N end of Idaho, a BIG cooldown, and we are now "below" average temps

 

[1967 Dodge Dart]

A POST car to boot!!! Good goin!! What we talked about with windshield gaskets...........bear in mind that front/ rear glass in a post car is DIFFERENT than a hardtop. If you go with 68/ later gasket/ chrome, that might even make it easier to find because "I think" the 4dr sedan stuff is same size as 2 dr post.

Enjoyed talkin with you. Its barely into the 50's F up here in the N end of Idaho, a BIG cooldown, and we are now "below" average temps

well it’s alive and running had to rebuild carb. And thermostat must be stuck as it gets hot and radiator is still cool. Thanks for all the info.

 

[1967 Dodge Dart]

well it’s alive and running had to rebuild carb. And thermostat must be stuck as it gets hot and radiator is still cool. Thanks for all the info.

Where is this red wire on back of alternator supposed to go?