MSD ignition recomendation...

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Richard McLaughlin

1974 Duster 340
Joined
Oct 10, 2016
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Location
New Brunswick
Hello,

I have a duster with a 73 340..

Someone suggested I put a msd ignition in it...

There are many on there site...

Which one would best suit a 340?

Looks like the digital 6al is a good one..

Thanks!
Richard
 
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The 6al is what most run.

Why was it suggested you buy msd? Car running ok?

I'm running only the rtr dist. So far it's been great. Cleaned things up nice too. No box or ballast on the firewall/fenderwell.
 
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People suggest all kinds of things. I wouldn't plan my actions on the opinion of one person.
I would do some more searching and reading up before getting out the plastic.
 
440 500+HP...Enough said???
MSD6AL
20170506_232051.jpg
 
The 6al is what most run.

Why was it suggested you buy msd? Car running ok?

I'm running only the rtr dist. So far it's been great. Cleaned things up nice too. No box or ballast on the firewall/fenderwell.
Car Is running good. Just thought it would be a good performance upgrade over stock. No?
 
The MSD is a nice controller, and I like triggering them directly off a factory magnetic distributor. But your not going to get 20-horsepower worth of difference or anything of that sort--especially if your car is already running fine. It will smooth out the idle and the rest of the entire range--not by a huge margin, but it is noticeable. If you get a 6al (not a 6a), you will get a rev limiter function, which is nice to have. 440Dart1970 above is using one of the older analog units, and they work just fine and can be found used for around the $100 mark. You don't "need" the new digital model. I found an analog used one for my '67 Plymouth lately, and it was a nice upgrade over a Pertronix igniter. MSD's can drive nearly any coil (but not all), and they have a lot of neat add-ons.

But if your satisfied with the function of your car currently, then there is no urgent need. However, if you drive it hard to the point of floating the valves, you may want to look for any system or add-on that provides a rev-limiting function. I have a feeling you don't do that.
 
depends.. theres a lot of fast running guys running a finely tuned stock electronic system...
 
its not hard.. hold on i'll post a couple articles for ya.. explains it well. better then i can anyway..lol..
 
If you do it by ear......advance it little by little until it starts to ping when under acceleration, then back it off. If you do it more scientific, use one of those timing lights with the dial on it. Im not sure what most are running at "full advance" but that means that at 3000RPMs or so the distributers curve is delivering the spark to the combustion chamber lets say 36 degrees BEFORE top dead center. So if the dial on the timing light is at 36, the engine is revved up to 3000, and the timing marks are flashing at TDC, you have your timing degreed at 36 fully advanced. If you have a timing light with NO dial on the back, then you can set it to say 12 degrees before TDC and take it for a ride.....if it doesnt ping under acceleration then you might advance it a bit more, and so on. Advancing your timing as such can create more heat in the motor at times so if you are having starting problems or heat problems then you may consider retarding the timing a bit (less degrees before TDC)

I have not really ever explained that one before so if someone has more to add.....Im learning too. Oh Abodyjoe was cutting and pasting at same time....what he said!
 
most of my small blocks end up at about 17* initial timing and 35* total timing.. i'm sure you'll end up in that area somewhere depending on your build.
 
no longer need to weld the slots up.. you can get one of these plates and adjust the advance where ya want it..

FBO Systems

View attachment 1715050674

I'd make sure that you have a good understanding of what you have, before calling FBO. It's a good plate, but you may not need it, or want it.
And Don will be glad to sell you the Store, if you don't know when to apply the brakes.
 
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