Mustang II front suspension/67' cuda

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ateam

A motor can
Joined
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Winchester, CA.
I didn't find any threads on this subject, so here goes. The Alterkation set-up appears real nice, just too nice for my budget. I bought a "Heidt" crossmember, with correct width for my rails. Should make 60.5" hub/hub. PST tubular uca's,specific for cuda. Wilwood forged spindles, front steer, with 15:1 power rack. QA-1 coil-overs, possibly with remote control valving. This should allow use of rear sump, 3G pan. Should save approx. 200 lbs. vs stock ps. and oem suspension. Anybody ? Thanks, ateam.:burnout:
 
ateam said:
I didn't find any threads on this subject, so here goes. The Alterkation set-up appears real nice, just too nice for my budget. I bought a "Heidt" crossmember, with correct width for my rails. Should make 60.5" hub/hub. PST tubular uca's,specific for cuda. Wilwood forged spindles, front steer, with 15:1 power rack. QA-1 coil-overs, possibly with remote control valving. This should allow use of rear sump, 3G pan. Should save approx. 200 lbs. vs stock ps. and oem suspension. Anybody ? Thanks, ateam.:burnout:
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take lots of pictures!
 
I have thought about this also.....How are you going to reinforce the frame to handle the loads from the coil over?...........Wish you were in TX or I was in Ca, we could do two at the same time..........take lots of pictures
 
I seriously thought about doing this, I see no reason why it wouldn't work just fine.
 
better measure your track width(outside tire to outside tire) or hub to hub(I think its a little wide for our A body application)...I looked at this a while back and came to the conclusion I wanted my tires INSIDE the fenderwells....just sayin'...
 
In making your decision, I think it's important to remove all of the personal opinions and look at the facts. The rustang II suspension has been used for decades very successfully in most any application you can think of. I think that if it is done properly, it will be a good addition to your car. However, if it is not done well it can be just as bad of a liability.
 
oh yea...I forgot to mention....In the first 5 or 6 pages of the Height catalog there is a treasure trove of info regarding basic front end geometry for the Rustang front end set-up.....It was very helpfull to me.....I would strongly urge anyone (except Bill Reilly...he is wayyyy ahead of these basics...but we gotta start somewhere) building a front steer set-up to check it out.
 
383Duster said:
I have thought about this also.....How are you going to reinforce the frame to handle the loads from the coil over?...........Wish you were in TX or I was in Ca, we could do two at the same time..........take lots of pictures
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To handle the coilover loads, I'm thinkin, "S&W's Race Cars" #13-350,(front sub-frame supports), DOM.13/4" od. x .120" wall, 46" L on horizontal run, 17" long on 45 deg.,down-leg. $85. pr.If I go 8 point cage,(first choice), I'll butt-weld these to load spreader plates, on firewall, and weld to fenderwells/shock mounts. I savvy needed geometry, on the order of 20% anti akerman,(road course work). Tubular upper arms have positive caster built-in.A arm supplier said "stockers can't get enough". ateam.::thumbup:
 
Some good ideas you have, but the factory upper a-arms CAN get plenty of positive caster, and what is "20% anti-ackerman" you NEED some akerman in the suspension, it doesnt make any diff if its road course, oval track or street....People often try to re-engineer the mopar suspension, the only thing most of em ever do, is gain header clearance, or lighten there checkbook....
 
Plus, I think your little mustang II spindles wouldnt hold up to the side load we experiance with our A body ones..in oval track/road course use... They are pretty little......
 
replicaracer43 said:
Plus, I think your little mustang II spindles wouldnt hold up to the side load we experiance with our A body ones..in oval track/road course use... They are pretty little......
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Stock spindles, you might be right. I bought "early a" drum brake spindles, for using the Willwood brake conversion, too scary for me! The Wilwoods are 2" taller and forged 4130 material,(3x on strength). "replicaracer43", how much positve caster did you get with stock uca's ? Chassis rake was ? Full Akerman doesn't allow for tire slip angles,(difference of wheel steering angle vs tread angle on pavement/dynamic turning). "Full" means the steeering arm angles, as veiwd from overhead, would meet at centerline between rear track . 20% anti Akerman would mean their angles would be spread outward 20% of rear track width, from centerline. Correct amount of Akerman, can assist on "turn-in", going into a turn,(innner wheel toes out). Having too much scrub radius,+/-, will tend to magnify the effects of Akerman, and can push the tire past it's effective slip angle potential too soon.Cheers, ateam.
 
replicaracer43 said:
Plus, I think your little mustang II spindles wouldnt hold up to the side load we experiance with our A body ones..in oval track/road course use... They are pretty little......
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Aluminum, beefy and 5 on 4 1/2" bc. Big bearings, 1.5' and .787" id's. I will bush the Willwood spindle to fit larger Mazda bearings. Wilwood or Speedway hats for 12+" rotors. RX 7 front calipers on rear, possibly Wilwood 4 piston, on front. ateam:thumbup:
 
SPC Performace lca's, for coilovers, 13.25" pivot length with .625" pivot bolt dia.Wilwood dropped spindle is 8.175" overall height, approx 5 deg kingpin angle. Backing plate/caliper mounting hole cl's are 3.5" sq. Dia's for outer bearing .864", inner is 1.376", Beefy"! Hub-hub width appears approx 56.5", with RX 7 hubs. Final purchase will be wheels ,with correct offset, to fit the wheelwells.:thumblef:
 
A team, I am very interested in your front suspension build. I am building a 67 cuda with a 5.7 hemi and I would like to change the front suspension to make more room for the 5.7. I have been looking at options but budget is the issue for me as well. It sound like you have done some research on these parts. Have you done a price break down in comparison to the Alterkation system? If you have can you post the prices and source location for the part? Thanks for thinking outside the box, just as you believe I think there must be a more affortable way to change to front steer and better brakes. Thanks Canadian Cuda
 
Canadian Cuda said:
A team, I am very interested in your front suspension build. I am building a 67 cuda with a 5.7 hemi and I would like to change the front suspension to make more room for the 5.7. I have been looking at options but budget is the issue for me as well. It sound like you have done some research on these parts. Have you done a price break down in comparison to the Alterkation system? If you have can you post the prices and source location for the part? Thanks for thinking outside the box, just as you believe I think there must be a more affortable way to change to front steer and better brakes. Thanks Canadian Cuda
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Thanks, "Heidt" crossmember for tubular, lower, non-strut A-arms, $350. "SPC performance,dom. tubing, lower arms, $194. ea. "QA-1" coilovers, $159. ea,(modular remote dampening control, extra,tba.). "Wilwood" items, Mustang II, std. height, frt/rear steer, spindles, approx $250/pr. 2" dropped approx. $300./pr. 11.75"x 1.25" rotors,$31 ea. 4 piston, forged alum calipers,$126 ea,alum hats, $80 ea.For .810" thick rotors, You can use Mazda RX 7, 4 piston alum. calipers, 6.25" bolt centers. RX 7 aluminum hubs, need bushing for inner bearing/seal, and Mustang II outer bearing.Tubular, direct fit, upper A-arms,(67' a body), with ball joint and heims, approx $350/pr. 15:1 ratio, rebuilt/upgraded power rack,"Unisteer"pn 8010430, $242,stock mopar pump ok. US dollars.Prices are from Jegs and Doug Herberts. Hope this helps, ateam.:thumblef:
 
Per Wilwood, kingpin angle is 7.2 deg. I'll be aiming for zero scrub radius. According to one rebuilder, conventional worm/sector pumps,(mopar), can be adjusted to reduce high pressure output. "Unisteer" said 1,400 psi., with their rack is ok. They have optional valves to adjust "sensitivity". ateam :cheers:
 
wow this will be awesome i sure would love to see some pictures of everything and progress
 
rapidtransitric said:
another thread with no pictures?
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"Nine Thumbs" suggest using imagination. But seriously, I'm waiting on rotors and calipers from Wilwood. They got shipped from 80 mi. away to "Herbert" in NC. and then they go to me. Why ??, they don't drop ship.If this isn't enough, now I have to fit a centrifugal blower, in there. I'm gonna need more rear tires/lol. ateam:evil2:
 
Got hubs and calipers. Need to make caliper mounts. Plan is to use 14" oal., "Proma Star" shocks, by QA 1. Mock-up, in the car is next. ateam.
 
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