My 318....Is no more..... :(

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have you tried frying behind the eccentric to see if it wobbled or anything? have you tried pulling on the timing gear and see how much end play it has?

you can dip a white paper towel in the front of the oil pan and see if any metal flak shows up on it also.

you should pop the timing gears off,and pull the cam thrust plate and see if there is any noticable wear.
 
It seemed to be on there all the way..The center bolt was tight, I had to use an impact gun to get it off...The front seal doesn't look worn, no odd wear patterns...
 
I doubt it is the cause of your problem.....because once it is bolted down and the shear key is in place it cant really go anywhere.... but it still should not come off by hand.

anyhow, I wouldnt put your attention into that right now...I would keep looking to see where the cause of your problem is.

about the only thing you can do at the point you are at is to check the thrust plate.....to check the cam you will need to pull lifters wich means taking off the intake,to check bottom end means pulling the engine
 
OK, I'll pull the timing gear and thrust plate and see whats up...When I pry on it, it's tight, doesn't move...And I put a white paper towel in the oil pan, no metal flakes...

So looking at the timing gear, how do I get it off? There's really nowhere to use a gear puller...
 
pull the eccentric bolt and it should come off....the lower one should slide right off also.....then behind the gears is the thrust plate and has 4 bolts I think holding it down.
 
You might have to use a small pry bar to get it started...tap the excentric with a rubber mallet and it should come right off
 
Okay, I got the timing gear and thrust plate off...Still no evidence of cam movement or thrust plate wear...
 
mopardude318 said:
OK well I got the timing cover off...One thing that was kinda of weird was when I was pulling the harmonic balancer off..It came off by hand, it was a little difficult to do by hand, but as I grabbed it with both hands and wiggled and shimmied it off, I didn't have to use a puller...Is that bad?? Do I need a new one, and check the radius of the crank snout?

The timing chain is a double roller and was tight, didn't appear to be worn out, and the cam thrust plate behind the timing gear was tight, and it doesn't move forward. The eccentric was okay and so was the oil slinger..

And the harmonic balancer wasn't rubbing on the timing cover either...

So I guess the next step is to pull the cam...So I'm off to pull the manifold and rocker gear to get that cam out...

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There is no way that the balancer should come off by hand....I have always had to use my puller to get everyone off that I ever did..:read2:
 
My thoughts also bremereric!

Id pop the intake off,pull rocker shafts,pull pushrods and lifters and then slide the cam out and see how everything looks.
 
DusterDude72 said:
My thoughts also bremereric!

Id pop the intake off,pull rocker shafts,pull pushrods and lifters and then slide the cam out and see how everything looks.
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I have had the top side of a lifter break once before and the pushrod was barely hanging on top for life 8)
 
Got the intake off...Took me forever...Still can't really tell whats up...On my way out to get the rocker gear off and pull the cam...

Also if you look at the pic, you can see how the drivers side of the engine has newer pushrods, and a cleaner rocker shaft...Like just that side was rebuilt....weird...

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does the drivers side have a pcv valve and the passenger side does not?

that could be the reason for one side being cleaner than the other.

your not doing to shabby buddy...I think your holding a pretty good pace....just make sure to take your time and inspect as much as you can!
 
Well, I pulled the rocker arms off, pulled the lifters out of the way and got the cam out...it spun freely and the cam bearings look good...I have to dig deeper and pull the damn engine I think!!!!

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Could this be an issue of some water trapped in the block, and boiling before it has a chance to circulate? I can't really tell much from the sound clip. When it is reving up this would create more heat, and the noise is the water trying to get out of where it's trapped. Maybe it is causing a cylinder wall to bulge a little bit. Just a guess, but it really does look like one side of the engine is getting warmer than the other. Also, when my RR spun a bearing it didn't give me near as much time to trouble shoot. About zero. And as an asside, does an engine really need that much oil pressure?
 
What's wrong with 70 +psi? Perfectly normal for a High volume pump.

Well, since it's now apart......I have never in my time as a mechanic heard valvetrain do that and still have oil pressure that consistent, so I knew it wasn't in that part. What RPM's did you hit?
 
screw driver to the end of your ear works just as good....don't bother spending the money....a little late for that anyhow.

as for the 70 psi...I am assuming its a factory pump since it wasnt mentioned other wise.....and it sounded like it recently started pushing 70 psi....... or has it always ran at 70?

either way it sounds high.

normally at idle 25-40 psi is an average psi and at highway speed around 50 psi
 
70 is not high....at only 50psi, that means no higher than 5k RPM's with the rule of thumb being 10 psi per 1000 rpm. Mine hits 65 psi when hot, and 40 at idle. I constantly go above 5500 rpm getting on the freeway...
 
Well, that pic showing 70 psi was at idle, and during warm up, after it warmed up, it went down to about 35 or 40 psi at idle...I dont know what it ever was before I hooked up the oil gauge because the gauges never worked from the beginning...

redfastback...I have no idea how high ive been spinning it...cant be no more than 6 grand...im sure ive hit that mark though, but no more than that...the tach never worked either..lol
 
the rule of thumb is to give someone an idea of how low of an oil pressure would be safe at an idle.....saying that 1,000 rpm and having about 10 psi of oil pressure would be "safe" and not have to worry about engine failure....not necessarily 10 psi for every thousand RPM's as thats not the case with every engine.....depends on if its factory pump or high volume or high pressure or how many miles are on an engine ect...ect...

I am not saying that 70 psi is "too high" of oil pressure....what I am saying is that if he is running a stock pump than 70 psi sounds to high and that it could possibly be a spun bearing or something and an oil hole is plugged which could be raising the oil pressure.

In my personal experiences factory 318's and 360 on average run around 25-40 psi at an idle and at about 2,000-3,000 rpms they run about 50 psi of oil pressure and at the max with the pedal to the medal the most I normally see them run for PSI on average is about 60 psi.

these are not exact numbers and these are numbers based on stock oiling systems .
 
what viscosity of oil were you using? that could explain the high psi when cold and dropping down to "normal" at an idle.

not saying anyone is right or wrong I am just trying to go over everything and think of whatever I can and mention it to maybe help get one step closer to helping him solve his problem.

hate it when you get the problems that rack your brain LOL
 
tell us when the pan is off and 1 rod and main of your choice is pulled.

even if you find no sign of nothing, change the pump while yer there, and really look at the oil pump drive or the chance of windage tray noise[if equipt] or trans pump bushing failure.
and how much crank end play there is.
 
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