My 408 Build

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69dodgedart360

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Well, after a compression test, 11 years and about 50,000 HARD miles, I am taking out my 360 and building a 408 stroker. I was looking at this kit and if anyone has any experience, I had a few questions.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-98113bi

To anyone that has experience building a 360 based stroker, I have read that sometimes you have to clearance the bottom of the bores. Is this true with Scat I-beam rods? Is there a particular rod or stroker kit I can purchase that does not require any block clearancing?

Is there any other things I should mention to the machine shop when I send them the block?
Thanks in advance.
 
I can only speak to the H-Beam rods I used...which did require clearancing on the bottom of two cylinders....no big deal though.

The only other screwy thing I ran into was I had to have a machine shop align hone the mains out beyond normal tolerances because the combination of the stroker crank, bearing, mains was too tight. Machine shop was worried about main bearing crush tolerances...but after talking to Hughes engines this is what needed done....ran it for 12 years with no issues.

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This is my notch done on a bridge port for a Scat 408 stroker kit with H beam rods I'm currently working on.

20170203_113418.jpg
 
Thanks for the info on the H-Beams, much appreciatedm I haven't heard of the align honing on the mains but,this is my first stroker motor. Anyone else run into that or similar experiences?
 
I was looking at this kit and if anyone has any experience, I had a few questions.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-98113bi

To anyone that has experience building a 360 based stroker, I have read that sometimes you have to clearance the bottom of the bores. Is this true with Scat I-beam rods? Is there a particular rod or stroker kit I can purchase that does not require any block clearancing?

Is there any other things I should mention to the machine shop when I send them the block?
Thanks in advance.

I used the forged kit from Scat and had my machinist internally balance it. It came with H beam rods and they didn't require any clearancing. Some blocks do, some don't.

Summit usually runs a 10% discount this time every year, that and no tax plus free shipping makes it pretty hard to beat their pricing.
 
The "I" beams usually clear , but the "H" beams will need some block work. The oil pump will need some attention too, the one main stud (if this is what you've chosen) will not clear as is, and the counter weight (under the oil pump) may also not have enough clearance.
 
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