My 67 Formula S Resto. thread

[68383GTS]

Here is my 67 Formula S 273 4 speed car I bought in Dec,2010.I towed it home and I got caught in the big snow storm we had just before Christmas.It took me about 16 hours to get it from Pittsburg,PA to East Peoria,IL.
The car came from CA around 2005 or so.The car has very little rust issues and is real solid.The car was also owned by two different FABO memebers Robb and 66Wagon.The only major parts I need at the time a trunk lid,a front passenger floor patch,and the top section of the drivers quarter panel or a full panel.
The resto will be slow as time and money allow.I hope to have the whole car in paint by winter,but I would be happy to have the whole car in primer and some paint under the hood by then.
I plan on doing the work myself with the help of my Uncle who paints cars for a living.I have done alot partial restos. and my Uncle and I restored a 68 Coronet when I was 15.
So I will need advice as I go.Here are a few pics as I got the car.Oh ya it is a total basket case.
Going to start tomarrow with removing the doors and suspension.Now I need a welder,sandblaster,paint guns,and materials...

Jim

 

[68383GTS]

more pics....

 

[skypower]

Looks like a nice piece to start with. have fun with your project.

 

[68383GTS]

more pics...

 

[68383GTS]

more...

 

[memike]

I am so glad you found yourself a dandy solid 67 Barracuda S fast back 68383GTS :shock: I am sure you can get this S model back into shape.
I bet you have many folks stoping by to take a peek at a car that old and not rotted to the ground yet.
Enjoy this one :notworth: I am subscribed :thumblef::heart:

 

[68383GTS]

and more pics...

 

[bvt69dart]

I'm also subscribed!

 

[varlo]

Can't wait to see some more progress ......cuda fastbacks are one of my favorites

 

[68383GTS]

Any ideas on removing the under coating from the backsides of the inner fenders?Last time I used a small blue propane torch and a scraper.Has anyone ever used the spray on under coating remover?If so how well does it work?

 

[68383GTS]

I removed the suspension and cross member Sunday.The nephew scraped seam sealer..Next thing to do is to remove the under coating on the back side of the inner fenders.Then remove the gas and brake lines.Then its time to spend alittle money...

 

[momoparman]

Get a cheap heat gun on it and it comes off like butter.

Mop

 

[68383GTS]

The drivers rear quarter panel was damaged years ago and replaced.So the outer wheel housing and trunk extension still has some damage.Is the Duster-Demon wheel housings the same?Can I use Duster-Demon trunk extensions?I plan on buying AMD metal.Also the door jamb striker post has the typical damage,does anyone make a repo door jamb stiker post?

Thanks,Jim

 

[efriedrich]

AMD makes wheelhouse for 67-69 Barracuda's. As far as trunk extentions you wiil have to use the ones you mentioned and and trim them to fit. I don't know about the striker post's but their is a member on here named barracudakid that parts cars he could probably help you out.

 

[stokey04964]

man that's going to be a cool looking car. Glad to see you have some help. Better than any video game!! Good Luck

 

[momoparman]

You can get brand new striker posts.

Check e-bay....http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967...tZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[RedFish]

You can get brand new striker posts.

Check e-bay....http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967...tZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The 40 buck price tag is for ONE striker post !
That's about 500% mark up of the 1969 price.

 

[cuda20]

nice solid looking 67

 

[momoparman]

The 40 buck price tag is for ONE striker post !
That's about 500% mark up of the 1969 price.

And a cheeseburger used to be $0.18 at McDonalds...yes everything has gone up in price since 69...:-D

He was looking for a new striker...this is one option...expensive option but this is a critical part that is important if you want your doors to close nice and line up.....don't you think.

Mop

 

[RedFish]

Not really, The door hinges are the critical points. The door should like up without a striker post. The post just holds it closed and insulates the bounce.

 

[momoparman]

So if your striker is worn out and sloppy it won't have an effect on how your door closes or lines up?

Hmmmm..I'l let my buddy with the worn out striker posts know that he only needs to worry about the hinges. Even though they are in great shape and have no sag. His door pulls down when it hits the worn out striker...and now it's starting to crack around the post because of that.
I think it is all important and all need's to be in good shape to close properly and line up.

But to each his own.

Mop

 

[RedFish]

So if your striker is worn out and sloppy it won't have an effect on how your door closes or lines up?

Hmmmm..I'l let my buddy with the worn out striker posts know that he only needs to worry about the hinges. Even though they are in great shape and have no sag. His door pulls down when it hits the worn out striker...and now it's starting to crack around the post because of that.
I think it is all important and all need's to be in good shape to close properly and line up.

But to each his own.

Mop

Your just being silly. If the striker is worn out or the body is cracked around it the damn hinges went first and caused it. Install a quality pair of hinges is a much better investment than a 40 dollar bolt.
My apologies for ever posting to this thread. I dont give a rats *** what he pays for parts. My only intention was to point out for anyone clicking the link, the price is for 1 and not a pair.
I've been trying to kick the FABO habit recently and some of you are making it easier to do.

 

[momoparman]

It's OK we all want to be right and not all things are the same.....I'm not being silly...the post is bad on his car and the hinges are not and it just started to crack around it. He has had this car for 6 years so this is a slow thing comming. The striker is not in the correct location anymore and may have been that way from the start or soon after....as in it not being in the right place put stress on it over it's life....I don't know why it was like that but I do know that it all matters together....hinges, strikes, bumpers, whatever it all has to be in good shape for the door to close properly. As in close by NOT slamming it and not POP open when the handle is engaged. I am well aware that the door will line up without the striker as his lines up perfectly until it engages the strike.

Why didn't he replace the strike sooner? How would I know? He has many half finished projects in his life....this is one of them.

Thin skin today? C'mon can't we have a minor debate anymore without it resulting in hurt feelings?

Mop

 

[68383GTS]

It the door jamb its self that is damaged.It has a stress crack,poor repair around the striker post area,and the quarter on that side was replaced long ago ,and there are nasty looking welds where the quarter panel meets the jamb.
I think I am going to pull off the quarter,replaced the outer wheel housing,trunk extension,door jamb.And the reweld the quarter panel back on right.

 

[68383GTS]

Here is what I got done today.The drivers rear quarter panel was replaced very early in its life.I did not like the way it was welded on so it removed it.There is also some damage to the outer wheel tub,door jamb post,and trunk extension.All the damaged metal will be replaced and the quarter panel will be put back on.
I NEED A DOOR JAMB POST IF ANYONE CAN HELP.

Jim