My car won't stay on

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HannahHex311

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Santa Rosa, California
I have a 72 duster with a 225 slant six. It has a little problem that I haven't been able to figure out for almost two years and I know it is probably something very simple. When I turn the car on, it sounds like it is okay and it is running but as soon as I let go of the key, it just dies. I only know the very basics about cars, so I asked around and I was told it could be the ignition switch, so I replaced that. No luck. My uncle was pretty confident when he said it could be the ballast resistor, but that didn't work either. I'm out of ideas and desperate to get my poor car running again, if anyone can help that would be awesome.
 
Ballast resistor - jump it out and see if it stays running... if it does replace the ballast!

Every time I have had that problem that is what it is -
 
You need a ballast resistor. By 2 keep a spare in the glove box.
 
Your'e not getting power to the ignition with the key in the run position. Trace it out with a test light availible from any parts store.
 
ramcharger is correct. Either the "Run" position of the ignition switch is not receiving power (bad switch), or the wiring off the "Run" position is at fault (harness/connectors).
 
Ballast resistor, careful though, there are at least 3 different ohm resistance ballasts out there and make sure you're using the right one. I even go so far as to check the actual resistance with an ohm meter before installing.

Terry
 
Hannah, all these guys are on the right track. When you energize the starter by turning the key on the ignition to the "start" position, you take the ballast resistor out of the circuit. When you release the switch to the "run" position you put the ballast back in the circuit. If you`ve replaced the ballast resistor and the ignition switch already then you should start looking for the reason why you are not getting power to the run position of the switch. Check the connections in the back of the switch but also at the bulkhead connector. The center one (I believe) is the one that has the ignition switch connections going through it but it wouldn`t hurt to check them all. There should be a fusible link there too but if it went bad I don`t think you`d even have what you`ve got. Let us know what you do find.
 
he said that he replaces both the switch and ballast though? i had that problem with my pickup, ended up being the ecu.
 
replacing parts is not the way to go. Get some reading material and read up on your start and run circuits. Once you understand what is going on then you can get the proper test equipment (a dvm or cheap circuit tester will work) to actually troubleshoot it right down to source. There is a ton of info right here on FABO.
 
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