My Cooling Improvement Project (hopefully)

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RustyRatRod,

I had the area from the lower radiator support to the K frame closed up in the past with little or no apparent change.

I do have plans to try it again now that I have done tese other mods.

Herb
 
I sent my F.A.S.T. XFI back today to have the IAC drivers repaired. After I got back from the UPS store, I pulled the MSD throttle body and F.A.S.T. Dual Sync Distributor.

I have temporarily replaced the throttle body with an old 850 Holley and the distributor with my old MSD billet distributor so that I can drive the car and play with the cooling issues.

I also pulled my AAR Sixpack hood to install a front hood seal.

While I had the hood of I went for another 14 mile drive, the temp was 89*.
The car is far more responsive now than it was with the EFI and only got up to 195* and to 200* when I stopped and let it idle for a short time. When I got back on the road the temp went back down to 190*/195* range. This tells me that I still have an air flow problem and also what I already knew that the XFI tune is way off.

If I could get the car to run and cool this well with the EFI, I would be a happy camper.

Herb
 
I'm on the same path as you but using some different parts. I am using a Griffin 1-86242-X radiator which has 2 rows of 1.5" tube. Currently using a Spal dual 11" fan setup but it leaves too much core uncovered. Im gonna hit a Road Course in June so friday im ordering a Derale 16833 fan setup. Right now cruising around in traffic is wont get above 185 on an 80 degree day. Im also using a stock 180 degree thermostat. If you want me to report back in June after the event how it handled the abuse let me know i'll be glad to add to your thread what I find.
 
Before you guys spend alot of money on fans try this 116.00 dollar one.

F8RZ-8C607-GE.jpg


You need 24" of core side to side. It pulls 30 amps with both fans on high and 16 amps with both fans on low. It's for a Ford Contour SVT.
 
The fan clutch is weak,they are for a jag with a plastic fan I have tried 3 new ones and all
Are weak, I run one on my 68 RR because it is very short but, wish I could find something else, I also made a front spoiler to funnel air into the bottom potion of the rad! It works great and you could see the temp gauge drop instantly as you take off from. Light on a hot day!
 
The fan clutch is weak,they are for a jag with a plastic fan I have tried 3 new ones and all
Are weak, I run one on my 68 RR because it is very short but, wish I could find something else, I also made a front spoiler to funnel air into the bottom potion of the rad! It works great and you could see the temp gauge drop instantly as you take off from. Light on a hot day!
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
The fan clutch is weak
Click to expand...


Believe it or not I told my buddy the same thing yesterday.

I have already made an adapter on my metal lathe to adapt the clutch fan assembly to the water pump hub. I want to use the same fan without the clutch and see how it works.

I will take a photo of my "Home-Brewed" fan adapter and post it in the AM.

I also have a seven blade mopar fan that bolts to the water pump, but the blades are almost flat on ut compared to the clutch fan.

I have plans to try it in the AM.

I really do not want to go to electric fans unless it is a last resort.

Herb
 
[quote="Dart67";1969983913]Believe it or not I told my buddy the same thing yesterday.

I have already made an adapter on my metal lathe to adapt the clutch fan assembly to the water pump hub. I want to use the same fan without the clutch and see how it works.

I will take a photo of my "Home-Brewed" fan adapter and post it in the AM.

I also have a seven blade mopar fan that bolts to the water pump, but the blades are almost flat on ut compared to the clutch fan.

I have plans to try it in the AM.

I really do not want to go to electric fans unless it is a last resort.

Herb[/quote] your saying to use the clutch setup with the existing light weight fan but "locking" it so it works as a straight direct drive fan? As a side note I used a 5 blade, and a 7 blade and both are about the same, the extra blades on the 7 would just turn slower due to the week clutch. I also used a direct drive seven blade but it uses to much hp and makes a lot of noise and was just very very slightly better but not worth it with hp and noise issue
 
What do you guys think about these....factory air extractors that came on the 5.9 Jeep Cherokees? I think it could help the hot air flow out of the underhood area. I like the way they look.......and I'd bet they would help.

7719870033_large.jpg
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
your saying to use the clutch setup with the existing light weight fan but "locking" it so it works as a straight direct drive fan?
Click to expand...

Not with the light weight fan, I do not have one.

I am talking about the mopar factory seven blade fan that mounts to the clutch.

It will be like a direct drive fan when done.

I am not worried about a few HP, the car has way more then I need for the street.
Now, if I was going to the track every weekend that would be a different story.

I just want to be able to drive and enjoy the car.

I am far closer to that point now then I was when I started ths project.

As I stated a couple of post back the temps are toreable now, I would just like to see the a little lower.

Watching the temps on a code reader, My 03 5.7 Hemi Ram runs down the road all day at 217* with no problems.

Herb
 
cudavert,

Not a bad idea.

But I already have a pretty big hole in my hood.

Cooling #1 61-1.jpg




Herb
 
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Here are the photos of the adapter that I made to adapt the clutch fan to the water pump.

I used a piece of 1/4" thick steel plate and drilled all the mounting holes then chucked it up on an arbor in the lathe and turned the diameter.


Cooling #1 62-1.jpg



The center hole is 5/8".

The holes for the water pump are 5/16".

The holes for the clutch fan are tapped for 5/16-24 bolts.

The bolts that I used to attach the adapter to the fan are old 1/2" x 5/16-24 torque converter bolts.

Cooling #1 62-2.jpg




The fan can be mounted on either side of the adapter.

This gives a depth adjustment of about 3/8", 1/4" adapter thickness + 1/8" fan thickness.

Cooling #1 62-3.jpg




I am going to mount the fan on the radiator side of the adapter for my trial.

Herb
 
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bremereric said:
Before you guys spend alot of money on fans try this 116.00 dollar one.

F8RZ-8C607-GE.jpg


You need 24" of core side to side. It pulls 30 amps with both fans on high and 16 amps with both fans on low. It's for a Ford Contour SVT.
Click to expand...

ya but how thick is it? i only have about 2 1/2" between the core and the water pump pulley
 
younggun2.0 said:
ya but how thick is it? i only have about 2 1/2" between the core and the water pump pulley
Click to expand...

3.3" to the motors, If I remember right they are about 3" to the plastic ribs. I'm going to use these with my small block. They are actually 95-00 Contour/Mystique and the Cougar with the 2.5 V6.

You might be able to clearance the ribbing enough to get the pulley to clear.
 
This sucks!!!!!!!!!!

Just as as was making headway and being able to cool and drive the car, this happens.

I got the car all back together this AM and was looking forward for going on a drive with the top down.

I started the car up to leave and POW, BANG.
I shut it down and this is what I found.

Cooling #1 65-1.jpg




The whole hub assembly, pulley and fan came off of the water pump shaft at startup and went thru my NEW Wizard Cooling Radiator.

Cooling #1 65-2.jpg


Cooling #1 65-3.jpg




I am waiting for a call back from Wizard to see if they can get me a replacement shipped the first of next week.

I talked with them and by the time I pay for shipping back and forth and labor and a replacement core that I will have more than what a new radiator would cost.

Herb
 
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serious ouch. Sorry that happened.

I did not see your rsponse.. Had you tried running a 180 degree thermostat??

My car runs cooler with the 180, than a 160 as well. Radiator fluid seems to have more time to cool in the rad before the thermostat opens up again.
 
Those light aluminum fans are not for direct drive. Did it start to bend? Or was it out of balance?
 
i also am wondering if the plate you welded to the back side of the impeller blades on the pump threw it out of balance and caused a vibration. or perhaps the adapter you made had the fan out of balance or had it off center slightly?
 
younggun2.0 said:
i also am wondering if the plate you welded to the back side of the impeller blades on the pump threw it out of balance and caused a vibration. or perhaps the adapter you made had the fan out of balance or had it off center slightly?
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking also.....
 
younggun2.0 said:
i also am wondering if the plate you welded to the back side of the impeller blades on the pump threw it out of balance and caused a vibration. or perhaps the adapter you made had the fan out of balance or had it off center slightly?
Click to expand...

The water pump that had the plate welded to it was not the one that failed. After welding on it the seals leaked even though I had cooled it between welds, so I had replaced it with another 8 bladed impeller pump.

The plate does not or has very little effect on the balance. I had a six impeller pump on the car for years. As a matter of fact it will probably be the pump I put back on.

The pump shaft shows signs that the hub had been spinning on it for quite some time.

That may very well be why the temps were erratic at highway speed.

This is just more of my "if it weren't for bad luck, I would have no luck".

Herb
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
Those light aluminum fans are not for direct drive. Did it start to bend? Or was it out of balance?
Click to expand...


It is not an aluminum fan, It is a steel fan.

It did not start to bend. I started the car and the hub came off.

After inspection, as I stated in the post above, it appears to have been slipping for quite some time.

I am extremely fortunate and happy that it happen in the shop at startup.

If it had come off going down the road it may and most likely would have gone thru my fiberglass hood.

Herb
 
Mind sharing what brand that WP is so we can all stay away from it? Sucks, sorry you had to deal with that.
 
[quote="Dart67";1969982786]Bill,
...
With the IAC not functioning the car is very hard to drive due to idle problems caused by having no throttle follower.

When coming off a crusie condition on slow down or at a stop light. The throttle close to quick and the engine will die.

Herb[/quote]

I can sure sympathize with you. I paid ~$600 for a new Holley Pro-jection TBI in 1996 for my 383, thinking it would give me the driveability and fuel economy of newer cars. I found the system barely worked, due to minimal sensors. It might have been OK for drag racers, but for street driving requires constant tweaking of the mixture settings, even with O2 feedback. After that expense and effort, I couldn't go back to a carb, so have driven with it since, always with the ECU box in reach. At least F.A.S.T. is stepping up and I hear their system works great when all parts function.
 
I'm kinda having the same problem with my 383 Duster. I can drive around town all day at 190-200. As soon as I hit the highway temp shoots to 230+ and I hear water gurgling in the heater core. I'm wondering about that 'water moving to fast' theory. I'm running a 190 stat and a 3500 cfm electric fan.
 
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