sharpie
workin' stiff
I am moving down to SoCal at the end of June - I need my Demon gone by then. I think $4000 is an extremely fair price. I just need it out of here. Here's the listing:
It started as a six-cylinder/auto/7.25 rear end car, but I replaced it with a 1998 5.9L Magnum from a Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited. The new engine is mated to a 904 transmission that shifts strong and spins a 1968 Coronet 8.75 rear end with 10x2.5 drum brakes that have been rebuilt. The rear end is an open 2.94:1. It has a brown bench seat interior, power steering, and column shift.
Both the rear end and the front suspension have been converted to big bolt pattern, and the front brakes are Wilwood with 11.75" rotors and 4-piston Dynalite calipers. It also has a new Wilwood master cylinder and adjustable proportioning valve. Other upgrades include a new dash panel with Autometer electric gauges and Detroit Speed and Engineering LEDs, professionally shortened and balanced driveshaft (by Driveline Service of West Sacramento), rewired engine wiring harness, and a fully-repainted engine bay. The white wagon wheels are temporary and any 15x7 or 15x8 mopar wheel will fit in the wheel wells.
I upgraded and rebuilt the 5.9 over the course of a year. The short block was machined by Mother's Machine Shop in Fair Oaks, CA. The stock crank and connecting rods turn SpeedPro hyper pistons and Sealed Power rings. The cam is a Hughes 1418ALN custom-grind camshaft with a Comp Cams double-roller timing set, lifting a stock 5.9 Magnum valvetrain sitting on Racing Head Service 5.9L Magnum heads. Hughes Engines valvesprings and retainers hold the valves. An Edelbrock 625cfm 1405 Performer Series carburetor sits on an Edelbrock Air Gap intake, and exhaust is a set of Hooker long-tube Competition headers and out back a Summit Racing true dual 2.5" exhaust system. The car was dynod on the Mustang Dynomometer at Evil Genius Racing in West Sacramento, and made approximately 350hp (@5500RPM) and 390lbft (@4200RPM) to the crank (274hp/312lbft to the wheels).
There are some rough spots on the car: the entire spare tire well was rusted out, so I cut out the affected area and riveted in a galvanized sheet as a temporary replacement. It should be easily removable with a chisel or a drill, and a new AMD trunk floor will weld right in. The tail panel had been crunched a little bit, so I pulled the area as best I could with my stud welder and painted it green to match the rest of the body. It's far from perfect, but it gets the job done. Finally, there is some bubbling paint on the driver's side rear quarter wheel lip. In general, anyone with welding and minor bodywork skills could repair the damaged areas easily.
Additionally, the interior is not in the greatest condition, but I have been replacing items and taking measures to clean it up as I have time.
Recent upgrades:
Removed the dash pad because it was rotting and cracking.
New remanufactured steering box made the steering tight and the tracking straight.
Wired an iPod/media player connection into the car, using an amp in the trunk and a connection next to the driver's seat. Plays through two brand-new 6x9 speakers in the package tray.
I know I bought the car during the boom, but I believe my work has paid dividends at least $200 more than the original price I paid for it. I have other pictures; all you have to do is ask. There are extra parts for it too.
Call 530-400-3045 or email [email protected].
I also have quotes from multiple transporters ranging from $800 to $1300 from my city across the country to Vermont, so that's a good indicator of shipping costs. Thanks for looking.
It started as a six-cylinder/auto/7.25 rear end car, but I replaced it with a 1998 5.9L Magnum from a Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited. The new engine is mated to a 904 transmission that shifts strong and spins a 1968 Coronet 8.75 rear end with 10x2.5 drum brakes that have been rebuilt. The rear end is an open 2.94:1. It has a brown bench seat interior, power steering, and column shift.
Both the rear end and the front suspension have been converted to big bolt pattern, and the front brakes are Wilwood with 11.75" rotors and 4-piston Dynalite calipers. It also has a new Wilwood master cylinder and adjustable proportioning valve. Other upgrades include a new dash panel with Autometer electric gauges and Detroit Speed and Engineering LEDs, professionally shortened and balanced driveshaft (by Driveline Service of West Sacramento), rewired engine wiring harness, and a fully-repainted engine bay. The white wagon wheels are temporary and any 15x7 or 15x8 mopar wheel will fit in the wheel wells.
I upgraded and rebuilt the 5.9 over the course of a year. The short block was machined by Mother's Machine Shop in Fair Oaks, CA. The stock crank and connecting rods turn SpeedPro hyper pistons and Sealed Power rings. The cam is a Hughes 1418ALN custom-grind camshaft with a Comp Cams double-roller timing set, lifting a stock 5.9 Magnum valvetrain sitting on Racing Head Service 5.9L Magnum heads. Hughes Engines valvesprings and retainers hold the valves. An Edelbrock 625cfm 1405 Performer Series carburetor sits on an Edelbrock Air Gap intake, and exhaust is a set of Hooker long-tube Competition headers and out back a Summit Racing true dual 2.5" exhaust system. The car was dynod on the Mustang Dynomometer at Evil Genius Racing in West Sacramento, and made approximately 350hp (@5500RPM) and 390lbft (@4200RPM) to the crank (274hp/312lbft to the wheels).
There are some rough spots on the car: the entire spare tire well was rusted out, so I cut out the affected area and riveted in a galvanized sheet as a temporary replacement. It should be easily removable with a chisel or a drill, and a new AMD trunk floor will weld right in. The tail panel had been crunched a little bit, so I pulled the area as best I could with my stud welder and painted it green to match the rest of the body. It's far from perfect, but it gets the job done. Finally, there is some bubbling paint on the driver's side rear quarter wheel lip. In general, anyone with welding and minor bodywork skills could repair the damaged areas easily.
Additionally, the interior is not in the greatest condition, but I have been replacing items and taking measures to clean it up as I have time.
Recent upgrades:
Removed the dash pad because it was rotting and cracking.
New remanufactured steering box made the steering tight and the tracking straight.
Wired an iPod/media player connection into the car, using an amp in the trunk and a connection next to the driver's seat. Plays through two brand-new 6x9 speakers in the package tray.
I know I bought the car during the boom, but I believe my work has paid dividends at least $200 more than the original price I paid for it. I have other pictures; all you have to do is ask. There are extra parts for it too.
Call 530-400-3045 or email [email protected].
I also have quotes from multiple transporters ranging from $800 to $1300 from my city across the country to Vermont, so that's a good indicator of shipping costs. Thanks for looking.
and craigslist. I don't think that interior pics would help though lol.
