My Magnum OBD1 to JTEC OBD2 conversion

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Guitar Jones

aka Angry Johnny
Joined
May 24, 2004
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I did a lot of searching and didn't really find anyone that has done this without the $1000 Hot Wire Auto harness so here it is. I used the 3 JTEC connectors from a 99 1500 4x4 automatic truck and spliced them into a 93 5.2 Ram Charger harness at the 60 way connector. I didn't change any sensors on the OBD1 engine or the harness. I obtained the data link connector from the donor truck as well. I did the conversion in the RC to get it up and running and then it will all get swapped into my 74 W200 crew cab stick truck. So if you have an OBD1 Magnum swapped into your A body and want to be able to flash the PCM for engine modifications (cam, intake, heads, stroker cranks and even forced induction) this will work for you. This way you can keep the factory injection system with it's diagnostics and readily available parts.

A note on the JTEC connectors, they are labeled in the FSM as C1, C2 and C3, they are all 32 way connectors. If you are looking at the PCM, connectors facing you and at the top the connectors are labeled right to left, not left to right. So C1 is on the right, C2 is in the middle and C3 is on the left.
To document this conversion I'm going to post the JTEC connector number then the cavity numbers underneath on the left. The wire color and circuit, then the corresponding SBEC 60 way connector cavity on the right with the wire color only if it's different. Once you remove the plastic covers you can see where the cavities are numbered at the end of each row, this includes the 60 way connector as well so it's pretty easy to figure out. Just take your time, do one wire at a time and double check that you are cutting the correct wires.
C1
2 LG/BK FUSED IGNITION OUTPUT TO 9 DB
4 BK/LB SENSOR GROUND TO 4
7 BK/GY IGN COIL DRIVER TO 19 GY
8 GY/BK CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL TO 24
10 YL/BK IDLE AIR CONTROL #2 DRIVER TO 60
11 BR/WT IDLE AIR CONTROL #3 DRIVER TO 40
15 BK/RD INT AIR TEMP SENSOR SIGNAL TO 21
16 TN/BK COOLANT TEMP SENSOR SIGNAL TO 2
17 VT/WT 5V SUPPLY TO 6
18 TN/YL CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL TO 44 GY
19 GY/RD IDLE AIR CONTROL #1 DRIVER TO 39
20 VT/BK IDLE AIR CONTROL #4 DRIVER TO 59
22 RD/WT FUSED B+ TO 3 RD
23 OR/DB TPS SIGNAL TO 22
27 DG/RD MAP SENSOR SIGNAL TO 1
31 BK/TN GROUND TO 11
32 BK/TN GROUND TO 12
C2
2 VT/TN INJ #7 DRIVER TO 17 DB/TN
4 WT/DB INJ #1 DRIVER TO 16
5 YL/WT INJ #3 14
6 GY INJ #5 TO 38 PK/BK
10 DG GENERATOR FIELD TO 20
12 BR/DB INJ #6 TO 58 LG/BK
13 GY/LB INJ #8 DRIVER TO 18 RD/YL
15 TN INJ #2 DRIVER TO 15
16 LB/BR INJ #4 DRIVER TO 13
27 WT/OR VSS SIGNAL TO 47
31 5V SUPPLY TO 7
C3
1 DB/OR AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH RELAY CONTROL TO 34
3 DB/YL ASD RELAY CONTROL TO 51
12 DG/OR ASD RELAY OUTPUT TO 57
15 PK/YL BATTERY TEMP SENSOR SIGNAL (have to add sensor, I have not done this yet but doesn't seem to affect charging)
19 BR/WT FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL (I think you can splice this to C3 cavity 3 otherwise it sets a fuel pump control code but I did not)
20 PK/WT EVAP SOLENOID CONTROL TO 52 PK/BK
22 BR AC SWITCH SENSE TO 27
23 LG/WT AC SELECT INPUT (splice this wire to the DB/OR wire at the AC low pressure cut out switch)
24 WT/PK BRAKE SWITCH SENSE TO 29
27 PK/DB SCI TRANSMIT TO 25 PK (also splice to cavity 7 of data link connector)
28 WT/BK CCD BUS- (add to cavity 11 of data link connector) not sure if you really need this or not.
29 DG SCI RECIEVE TO 45 LG (also splice to cavity 6 of data link connector)
30 VT/BR CCD BUS+ (add to cavity 3 of data link connector)
To finish off the data link connector you'll need fused B+ to cavity 16 and grounds to cavities 4 and 5.
I don't know if the data link connector works yet, I don't have a scanner at home. Hopefully I'll remember to bring one home from work tomorrow.
Also be sure to get the VIN from the donor truck if you want to flash your PCM.
I used a PCM from a 99 5.2 automatic 4WD truck but since the 74 is a stick I expect it to set a few codes. If you want to use a RH trans you'll probably need to use switches for the O/D and TCC or the other methods with pressure switches and such. The JTEC PCM does have outputs for O/D and TCC but without it able to read the governor pressure sensor and output sensor I don't know if it will work. I don't know if they ground the solenoids or feed them by drivers so research that before trying.
Those wires are
C1
11 OR/BK FOR TCC SOLENOID CONTROL
21 BR 3/4 SHIFT SOLENOID CONTROL

JTEC1.jpg


JTEC2.jpg
 
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The data link connector works just fine. I had a couple transmission solenoid codes (not unexpected) a fuel pump relay control code (also not unexpected) a ROM ID code (?, not a big deal) and a couple others I don't recognize. I was able to clear them but since I don't have a MIL I'm not worried about any of them.
 
The data link connector works just fine. I had a couple transmission solenoid codes (not unexpected) a fuel pump relay control code (also not unexpected) a ROM ID code (?, not a big deal) and a couple others I don't recognize. I was able to clear them but since I don't have a MIL I'm not worried about any of them.
Steve,
First you made the bible on oiling mods for all of us to use and now this. Thanks for all your thought and time put into both efforts!
Dan
 
Steve,
First you made the bible on oiling mods for all of us to use and now this. Thanks for all your thought and time put into both efforts!
Dan
Thanks Dan.

It has been brought to my attention that two other guys that have done manual trans conversions on a Dakota and Durango originally equipped with the JTEC automatic PCM have run into fuel cut problems. I'm not totally sure of this yet but I believe this stems from the park/neutral sense wire in the C1 connector cavity 6 (BK/WT wire). The SBEC also has a park/neutral sense wire but I did not connect them. I'm thinking these guys grounded the wire from the starter relay to the neutral safety switch so the relay would work without disconnecting it from the PCM. This would make the PCM think the vehicle is in park/neutral all the time thus providing the fuel cut at around 4000 RPMs. I'm going to look into this hopefully this weekend.
 
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