Name this engine noise, can't be good!

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yellow rose said:
Have you verified the thrust main isn't out? Had it happen more than once.

Also, had a friend wreck his B body car years ago. He wanted to put a new converter in it. I said and I quote "make double damn sure you use RED LOCTITE on those cheesy assed converter bolts...they WILL come loose and bite you in the can if you don't".

Converter is in and all is well. Looking at the plugs, I can see the engine wants more ignition. So, I order a box for him.

Two days after the box goes on, a knock develops. He thinks it's the box. So we bolt the old ignition back on. Still knocking.

Then he decides a bolt got dropped into the carb. How he figured that I've never discovered. This is 1991 and he still, to this day has never explained that bone headed thinking.

Now, both heads are off. I swing by his house after work and he has the pan off and half of the Pistons and rods out. I'm thinking WTF is going on? So I climb under the car and start looking. Nothing is wrong.

So I say to him turn the crank a couple of times so I can have a look. Turing the crank by hand I can hear the clunk. It's coming from the converter. The little bolts are loose. Like socks on a rooster. WTF???

To this day, he swears up and down he used red LOCTITE. We all know he didn't, because when I told him to use it and asked if he had any, he said no but I'll get some. I offered to loan him mine but no, he wanted his own. When he didn't ***** about the cost of a little tune of red LOCTITE I should have known he didn't use it.

So how did the car get destroyed? Easy. It was all apart and sitting in his garage. Where the washer and dryer were. They were on an inside wall, so the exhaust for the dryer went up the wall, across the ceiling and to a vent on the outside of the garage.

His wife told him the exhaust hose had fallen off the dryer, but he blew it off. A few months later he went out and went to out it back together. It was one giant pile of rust. Every machine surface was rusty, and I mean junk rusty. The master cylinder and everything else cast iron was covered in rust.

At that point, he sold the car for next to nothing. What a waste.
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Yes lazy will bite you in the *** every time.
 
rustyfish said:
Yeah, I know there's an exhaust leak. Manifold pretty sure.

So I got under there and one of the flex plate bolts was hand tight. I did the best I could with a open end wrench and the vast majority of the chatter has gone away. Guess it would be nice to get those fully torqued, but good enough right now.
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Guess it would be nice!? LOL.... It loosened once and it'll do it more easily the 2nd time. Read about the red loctite story!
 
Did you look at the flex plate closely? A lot of times the bolts will back out and the flex plate will crack.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Did you look at the flex plate closely? A lot of times the bolts will back out and the flex plate will crack.
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I inspected it as best as I could and didn't see any cracks. I drove again yesterday for about 35 minutes with no further noise, but like someone said above, I'm concerned about it backing out again without being able to torque it properly. Have to get back under and give it another go, but rather not tear all that stuff out for access.
 
If you take a box end wrench and file/sand the face so there is no chamfer left, it will sit flush against the flex plate and get more purchase on the bolt. I use blue loctite with no issues, but I run aftermarket converter/bolts/flexplate. So the connection is the best it can be before the loctite. Never had one back out yet.
 
rustyfish said:
I inspected it as best as I could and didn't see any cracks. I drove again yesterday for about 35 minutes with no further noise, but like someone said above, I'm concerned about it backing out again without being able to torque it properly. Have to get back under and give it another go, but rather not tear all that stuff out for access.
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Yeah it's a pain but you need to do it. Also, get you some blue locktite and put on those bolts and tighten them up good. They won't back out again........hopefully.
 
furrystump said:
If you take a box end wrench and file/sand the face so there is no chamfer left, it will sit flush against the flex plate and get more purchase on the bolt. I use blue loctite with no issues, but I run aftermarket converter/bolts/flexplate. So the connection is the best it can be before the loctite. Never had one back out yet.
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Cheers to more custom made wrenches for Mopar! How about holding the flex plate/torque converter still? Screw driver in the teeth?
 
With the inspection cover off. My flex plate has additional holes for different converters. I throw a small screw driver in a hole and turn it until the block stops it or breaker bar on dampener pulley to tighten them, but to loosen them, because Mr. Murphy REALY likes me that will just loosen the dampener bolt! So screw driver it is!
 
Vice grips clamped hard on the ring gear in the inspection area or in the starter hole, and then the crank turned and jammed against the block, works good too.
 
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