Narrowing b-body axles

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drewmac

drewmac

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I just got a set of 1966-67 b-body axles to narrow for my 1967 Barracuda 8.75. Now I have heard a lot on this forum about proper length to go for (28 " is what I think is the final word for bbp rear brakes) what I am concerned about is taper. These axles do taper near the end but after measuring it looks like I will be fine getting them cut and re-splined. As a final check I thought I would ask if anyone has used these exact axles to shorten.
:prayer:
 
If I remember right you need 28" of axle with no taper within the 28"s so they have room for the new spines. The axles that you should use are from C-Bodies and trucks.
 
Let me take a picture of the spline end of the axle. I have heard that c-body/ truck axles are best but these look like they will work. If not I will sell them I got a good deal.
 
B body axles are not long enough to cut down and respline if you want to do this you need C body axels.If your not sure about this call Moser Engineering at 260-726-6689
 
Ok here is a picture of the end of the axle. It needs to be shortened about an inch or a touch more. That would still leave about an inch and a half of space to spline the axle before the taper. Or do you need to have thicker part after the taper for the splines on the upper part of the axle?
 

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No go...

Take 3/4-7/8" off the end and that's where the spline needs to start. You'll be into the necked down area (taper) which is smaller diameter than the OD of splines required.

You'll be buying new axles. 68Dodge nailed it. The only axles that seem to not have the neck down are truck and C body pieces.
 
Great guys thanks so much. I will sell these and see about getting a set of c or truck axles. By chance does anyone know what year and model trucks or vans these would be in?
 
Wow! That is a great deal! Thanks for the info, might change my who plan. Thanks.
 
that is Doctor Diff ad...call him....and he will answer you questions concerning axles...

Service second to none.....
 
Yes I think this person needs to do a little more research. Looks like he wants to change to BBP and he will need to know what brakes he will be using as the axles are made per drum used. Call either doctor diff of Moser Engineering before ordering. I have always used Moser because they are close to me
 
BBP brakes used on our mopars all use the same flange standoff distance. The width of brake drum is taken up by variances in backing plates used.
 
i just installed a set of doc diff axles on the "twin turbo scamp" im working on and i really liked the product! very nice axles.
 
crackedback said:
BBP brakes used on our mopars all use the same flange standoff distance. The width of brake drum is taken up by variances in backing plates used.
Click to expand...

Could very well be all I know is that Moser always ask what brakes I was planning on using.
 
My initial plan for brakes is to do the1998-99 Jeep disc conversion outlined by Bluemissile here on the forum so my plan is to get a set of axles and cut them 28 5/16" long to accommodate additional width of the brake backing plates for that conversion. Now seeing the Dr.Diff deal above may change that but I still would like to have 4 wheel discs.
Honestly I saw a good deal ($75) for these axles and leaped before I looked.

So that leads me back to what year trucks/ vans have 8.75 rear ends?
 
I have a 67 fury rear axle i will be using the housing and center chunk from for my barracuda. I have not broken it all down yet, but will b selling the axles and 11x2 drum brakes off it. Are you interested in the axles. They are bbp with 1/2" 20 thread. One side is left hand thread not one of mopars better ideas . I have a new set of A body width axles for when i narrow the rear housing so i dont need these old ones.

Pm me if interested
Matt
 
dodge71demon said:
Maybe I'm old - slow and dumb but I just don't get the rear disc thing.
Click to expand...

eye candy is all it is mate. the rears only do 20% of your stopping anyways. i got 150 plus thousand miles on my old chevy pickup. never replaced the rear pads ever. bought it new too.

i was going to do rear discs, till i figured out what it would cost. i a built up a set of 78 cordoba BBP 10x2.5" drum brakes with finned severe duty kelsey hayes drums, and going BBP 11.75 cordoba rotors, with 2.75" diameters piston calipers in front. this will work well, and is all stock parts.

i would love to do the rear discs, just dont have the cash, and a properly set up and operating set of rear drums will work just as well.

i think the only advantage with the rear discs is ease of maintenance, simplicity over drums, and lighter weight, less fade with multiple panic stops (not real world).

stopping power is still about 20%, and a rebuilt drum setup is way cheaper with all new parts, plus parking brake is a bolt on setup, where as with discs you have to figure out how to hook it up depending on the caliper you use.

i prefer the bolt on cheap upgrade, with no guesswork myself.

Dont forget you will need a disc / disc master cylinder, or an adjustable proportioning valve to set up the front to rear line pressures, otherwise you may hit the brakes hard one day and the car can swap ends. With the jeep setup id recommend using the jeep master cylinder, and proportioning valve, id also measure the jeeps front caliper piston diameters. If they are 2.50" diameter id use the jeep master cylinder providing you are using stock A body discs in front. My cordoba setup uses 2.75" pistons up front which meant i had to buy a master cylinder with a bigger bore for the fluid.

You need to remember this as a rear disc caliper requires more fluid than a drum wheel cylinder to.operate properly. The bore on a disc/disc master cylinder will b different than a disc/drum master cylinder.

i got a brand new pair of race car weld on rear brake caliper brackets for GM metric calipers they fit a 3" axle tube. want $22.00 plus the ride. these will fit with the GM sliding pin caliper with integral parking brake.

just my .02 and some facts from my own research.

matt
 
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