Need Advice Installing IVR into 65 Dart Cluster

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zephyr

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I have the instrument cluster out of my 65 Dart, and I have the IVR-3 I bought 3 years ago from RTE. RTE (redfish) is now retired. I have researched this but not found any reference for how to attach the IVR-3 to the circuit board of the 65 Dart. I understand that I'll first need to disable the points inside the fuel gauge. Also, I am completely illiterate when it comes to electronics so I really need to see a picture.

Here are pics of the board and IVR-3. Can anyone tell me where to connect these?

Thanks in advance
Vance Carriere
[email protected]

IVR 3.jpg


Guages.jpg


Circuit boars.jpg
 
I have instructions somewhere in garage.
I will look for them tomorrow and get you a copy.
CudaMike13
 
I just went to rte-eng.com and there is still all their info abt IVR3 and IVR4.
According to their website, they only cover 67 and newer Darts.
I will still get you copies of instructions and we can probably figure it out.
 
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The trace that both gauges are connected to is the 5 volt line.

I repaired mine with a TO-3 style 5 volt regulator I had in parts bin. I used ring terminals to connect with the speed nuts.
 
Not just any ring terminal will make a good connection beneath the pizzy stamped speedy nuts. Home Depot and others have the 10-32 hex nuts and internal toothed washers ( just like what is on the amp gauge. Another 2 dollars to spend). A ring terminal followed by a toothed washer and hex nut on top of the speedy nut is a better plan. The gauge stud is plenty long enough.
I dont understand why people add a solid state outboard regulator and continue to supply 12 volts to the fuel gauge after its no longer required there ( except for the fact that RTE told them to open the fuel gauge and disable the OEM limiter). The switched 12 volt wire in the round harness connector serves nothing more than the OEM limiter. Better to take that wire out of the round harness connecter and route it directly to the addon regulator.
If the 12 volts goes only to the addon regulator, electric tape is placed on the back of the fuel gauge to isolate that gauge can and OEM limiter from chassis ground,,,, opening the gauge to disable the limiter is not required. A 3 post gauge that does not get 12 volts and is not chassis grounded will only function just like any common 2 post gauge. 12 volts aint going there, 5 volts can't bleed to ground through the remnants of the OEM limiter.
 
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RedFish said:
Not just any ring terminal will make a good connection beneath the pizzy stamped speedy nuts. Home Depot and others have the 10-32 hex nuts and internal toothed washers ( just like what is on the amp gauge. Another 2 dollars to spend). A ring terminal followed by a toothed washer and hex nut on top of the speedy nut is a better plan. The gauge stud is plenty long enough.
I dont understand why people add a solid state outboard regulator and continue to supply 12 volts to the fuel gauge after its no longer required there ( except for the fact that RTE told them to open the fuel gauge and disable the OEM limiter). The switched 12 volt wire in the round harness connector serves nothing more than the OEM limiter. Better to take that wire out of the round harness connecter and route it directly to the addon regulator.
If the 12 volts goes only to the addon regulator, electric tape is placed on the back of the fuel gauge to isolate that gauge can and OEM limiter from chassis ground,,,, opening the gauge to disable the limiter is not required. A 3 post gauge that does not get 12 volts and is not chassis grounded will only function just like any common 2 post gauge. 12 volts aint going there, 5 volts can't bleed to ground through the remnants of the OEM limiter.
Click to expand...
I used the 12v stud to power my transistor. Thus, far the ring terminals are doing fine. I’m an electrician so I always have plenty of terminals, which is why I used them.
 
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