need help /6

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jivemother33

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well i am trying to get this 64 dart to run been sitting for years . got clean fuel, blue spark , comprestion , will not run , a few pops here and there . seems like timing or something , tryed T O P DC wired it up then evin tryed 180 out just to see . nothin . fresh battery also but it does not turn over realy fast . would the points be messing with me ? what should the gap be on the points ? any ideas would help
 
i would pull the distibutor out and check the plastic gear on it. they sometimes crack and chip off teeth and you can never get the timing right. we went through this with my dads dart. just an idea. good luck!
 
Not /6 specific, but I had a car once that I could not get to run, it just died one day (as I pulled in my driveway oddly enough!) After chasing points, cap, rotor etc. my Dad told me to change the condenser. I didn't think it would help, but... $1.69 later I was golden.

Pull the cap off the distributor and make sure the rotor is turning. Clean the contacts on the under side of the cap (use to kill my VW Bug when the aluminum (??) contacts got coroded). I don't know the point's gap, but usually about the thickness of a matchbook cover will get you running.

Dad always said it takes 3 things to make a car run, air, fuel and spark, and 80% of the time it's spark that's making it not run. Of course, that means that at least 20% it's carb! Check the air bleeds on top of the carb (usually under the air cleaner flange, really small and can get blocked. Usually won't stop it from starting, but will keep it from idling.

HTH, Ken
 
I'd also make sure that the carb is squirting gas. If it is, and you have compression, and a spark I'd try a new distributor. They're cheap, and it's good insurance. Good luck.
 
Frogpriate should get you on the right track. Report back on other findings. Maybe a carb problem. Watch out for parts store remans (they are usually JUNK )
PM me if you really get stuck.
Frank
 
Look for the simple easy stuff first as outlined above. Keep in mind also that I've read where the balancer ring can spin and not be correct. If you have not, check top dead centre at the piston and then compare to the balancer mark to see if it is way off. If it is, then you can put your own degree marks on the ring and get timed enough to get it going.

Also check for leaks at the manifolds.

Best of luck.
Cheers
 
A bad ballast resistor will give that "pop once in a while" condition.
 
Point gap is .020 and spark plugs are gaped at .035
I just looked the settings in my old 1966 to 73 Chilton's.
 
RedFish said:
A bad ballast resistor will give that "pop once in a while" condition.
Click to expand...

if it is bad u will still have some spark?
well this is what i got , new starter pos cable,points ,condenser ,turns over great ,but all it does is pop throgh carb its squiting gas . just seems like timming to me, dont know ....
 
one more thing with the plugs out i should be able to turn motor over buy hand? if i cant what up with that ?
 
where are you grabbing it? Is there a tight spot or just really hard to turn? My 73 takes some umf to turn it over without the plugs, doable with both hands pulling on the a/c belt, there is a lot of metal to move :) oh and I'm a 90lb weakling :lol:

If it's a manual... take it out of gear :lol: :lol:
 
Turning an injun by the belts can get your fingers hurt. Use a tool on the crank bolt.
If its been sitting a long time it may have rust in the cylinder walls, stuck rings, and not be easy to turn by hand. The starter should spin it much faster though.
 
Timing could be bad points, a worn out distributor bushing making the dwell wander all over the place, or a stretched/worn out timing chain.
Yank the distributor and see how much side to side slop there is in the shaft - should be none. Before yanking it out, pop the cap, disconnect the battery, and try rotating the engine by hand by pulling on the fan AND watching the distributor rotor. If the motor spins but it takes a little for the rotor to turn, the chain is shot.
 
dis. seems tight set the gap on plugs and points ,gear on dis is good shape . the motor only has 58,000 on it , it turns over pretty fast , i did notice the coil get realy hot when u crank on it ,cant touch it , i jumped the ballise resister . how about seting the dist. when u take it out it can go back in a bunch of ways cause of that gear , but as long as i set number one at top dead center i should be good to go . this is kickin my butt
 
Since this engine has been sitting for years, you need to squirt some oil down the cylinders before you try to start it. Also pull the valve cover and turn the motor over and watch the valves, are any of them stuck?

Its true, you need spark, air and fuel but also compression. Get your timing back straight for sure and let any stuck valves soak in oil over night, then a light tap or two and squirt a little oil down the cylinders before you try to start it, hope this helps.
Dietz
 
+2,099,786,343 on pulling the valve cover i fought mine for 2 months(i was 15 ) and same thing turned over fast would try and kick over once in a while but never "fire over" and my buddys dad told me to pull the valve cover and there it was 7 yes that isnt a mis print 7 push rods bent,6 valves were stuck and btw congrats on the getting a 64.
 
i will pull the valve cover tommoorrow . its not my 64 its my bosses dad just tryin to get it going for him . its a 4 door but its in great shape for sitiin for years no rust at all dash seats all in great shape evin the washer bag is in great shap .
 
took valve cover off cyclinder # 1 intake valve stuck down , wacked with hammer came up, pushrod was bent but that was the only problem i saw . what is the valve adjustment specs ? it lokes like this things got solid lifters
 
intake .010
exhaust .020
Adjusted "at temp" which might be a problem as the thing wont start....set 'em and reset 'em once you get it running
but I run .011 and .021 respectively

any insight on why it was sitting for years?? might make the troubleshooting a little easier.
 
intake .010 exh .020 hot (engine hot)but you can set them cold and get it going then reset.good luck. and a bad ballast will usually give you a run while cranking with the key and quit when you let off the key.it only works when you are in run.
 
before you start it spray some PTFE in the springs onto the valve to loosen it up in the seal and hope she fires
 
Dont forget the 123 cyc and 456 are mirror images on valve layout . This gets a lot of folks.
Frank
PS slantsix.org has a GREAT write-up on how to do the alignment use the search function.
 
thanks for the info guys , i will set them up when i get a chance . i dont know the story on y the car sat for so long .i will keep u al posted thanks again
 
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