need help /6

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well got the valve train in specs i think .. well its tryin to run fires a few times just wont roll over maybe the carb , i dump fuel down it desent realy make a differance . still seems like timming , move the plugs wires around , move them all forward one it dose nothing , back one it turns over realy hard like to much advance . i dont know lol
 
How much wiggle "Wear"do you have on your rotor button
Your distributor may need a new bushing like another member has said.
It still sounds like a bad coil to me, I went though this with my 63, It would start and run good for about 5 minate and then I would shut it off and go back to start it and nothing, I pulled a coil off my truck "318" and it started and ran like it never did, And I never had another problem starting it after that. balllist resister will go at anytime so keep a new one in the clove box.
And don't forget that the plugs will fail after to much gas and wire's are VERY important, Are you getting a constant spark at each plug , Pull them all out and have someone crank it over with the key and look at each plug for a good constant spark at each plug, This will keep you from burning up a starter and get a good look at all six plugs firing, Be careful and make sure there is no gas to catch on fire. I know this is aggravating , I have been there before.:angry7:

A friend of mine built a brand new 289 and they could not get it to start for days, I went to there shop and checked every thing and pulled the plugs out and used an old oil can and put just a tea spoon of oil on top of each cylinder and they thought that I was crazy put the pluges back in and it started right up, The boys could not believe it, low compretion on dry rings :toothy10:

I hope and pray you find the problem soon and hear the / singing :cheers:
 
still kickin my butt new coil wires and plugs , still nothin just couple of fires. i am going to check the compresstion on each cylinder see what i get , what kinda numbers should i be lookin for ?
 
I pulled my duster out of a field where it had been sitting for about 4 years, and prior to that sitting in another field for 5.

I was having some of the same problems you were. I got wheezy turnover and some shake, but not much else. The carb was spraying, but filthy and dusty, so I used a boatload of carb cleaner, and finally some ethanol starting fluid sprayed into the carb during startup managed to get it to finally kick over and start.
 
My Valiant has been sitting in a pasture since 1983. It would sputter and try to fire, but not quite catch.
Changed points, plugs and starter, finally got it to catch and barely run for about 5 sec. then it smoothed out and ran great. I think the valves were carboned up and after sitting for so long, the stuff would hold the valves open. It just had to run and clear its throat.
Outside of changing the hoses and fuel lines, I haven't even opened the carb yet. Of course; I don't leave town with it............yet.
 
The numbers you gave on the compression test aren't good. The rule of thumb I was always taught was all cylinders should be within 15 lbs of each other No one ever really has been able to tell me what kind of compression to expect just to make sure all cylinders are within the 15 lbs of eachother. Now granted you can get them to run good with a little more difference but 60 lbs difference from cylinder 6 and cylinder one means you definitely have a compression problem. You need to look at cyl 6 first and figure out why its at 60 lbs. Try squirting oil down the cylinder and then do another compression check if i remember right if it goes up more than 10 lbs I think it is you have problems with the rings if it doesn't you have a problem with the valves. If checking the cylinder with oil checks out fine check for bent pushrods on cyl 6 if they are ok then adjust the valves right and if you still have that low of compression you probably have a burnt valve. The popping out of the carb usually means you have an intake valve problem though (as long as the exhaust valve is opening properly that is) Hope this helps Justin
 
For a slant that been sitting out in a field that ok. It should run with those numbers. Remember spark fuel air.......If you KNOW you have fuel(and its good fuel) then it has to be SPARK ,ill assume you are getting air.(check by holding the butter fly open on the carb and looking down with a flashlight to see the bottom of the intake manifold)
Did we check the dist being 180 degrees out? Look and make sure the vacumn advance pod is towards the front of the engine not the rear. Most of mine POINT from 3 to 6 oclock.
Let us here back on this.
Refresh my memory is this points or EI?
Frank
 
a little recap , new points ,cap,rotor,wire plugs , had bent push rod on number 1 , all others looked good , adjusted valves, dist pod pointing to front , got clean fuel, spark , new starter, batt. , i am going to fill cylinder with air see iv got a burnt valve
 
Most slants will run on 5 cycs, no problem (ive even raced and won on 5).:bootysha:
OK
1.Have you verified the dizzy is turning??? Have some one turn it over while you have the cap off and watch the rotor.
2.The next thing I would check would be the timing chain. If its worn or has jumped you will have problems.
3.Have you shot a little starter fluid down the intake? Did it start?(I think i remember you put gas but this is not the same) If it will start this way you have a bad carb.
4.PM me your phone number and Ill try and talk you thru this.:read2:
Frank
 
dizzy is turning , the motor only got 50,000 on it ill try the startin fluid .do u thing the timming chain jumped with that low of miles ? i am going to play with it today hopefully ill get it Frank with out calling u lol
 
I've even taken a hammer to the valves to "pop" them and had good luck with that.
I've had um run on 3 cyls with 3 thrown rods and the bearings sqealing while the engine was trying to lock up......never did though.
 
mikeys toy said:
I've even taken a hammer to the valves to "pop" them and had good luck with that.
I've had um run on 3 cyls with 3 thrown rods and the bearings sqealing while the engine was trying to lock up......never did though.
Click to expand...

Yikes.

I love these indestructible /6's.

The mind of a slant six -

"Oh, I'm horribly damaged.. But yeah, I'll run for a while longer."
 
Slow spin on a fresh battery is usually a ground issue. Check ground, also wiring through relay to starter.
Possible dud starter.
Also possible is excessive internal friction. Symptom of internal friction/drag, starter gets hot faster than normal.
 
i think 66acuda has it right.
a freind of mine had tried everythink in the book to make his /6 run right, all it did was sputter and puke. i checked relationship of TDC piston on #1, TDC timing mark on balancer, and where the dist. rotor is pointing. sure enough the dist. was way off where it should have been.
the timing gear was stripped, i think some of them are made of nylon and can wear out easy. might be worth checking.
 
got timming cover off it looks good , when the timming marks point at each other the piston is up but not on the power stroke . were is the piston at when the marks point at each other ? i pic would help . when the cam gear is pointed out to spark plugs the piston is up
 
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