NEED HELP ASAP on ignition

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the wire that is broken is blue with redish or brown stripe going to electronic ignition box that was comming out of socket N in the bulk head connector but if that wire burnt then wouldnt there be a short or something to fix first? idk
 
Yikes. Well you have found the essence of the problem. Did you get my note, the FACTORY diagram for the ENGINE BAY has the bulkhead labeled wrong

The INSTRUMENT PANEL wiring diagram should be correct

So bouncing between the MyMopar diagrams:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72ValiantA.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72ValiantB.JPG

and the 72 shop manual, and ignoring the lettering on the engine bay diagram bulkhead connector, we seem to have this:

START WIRE coming from start relay to bulkhead seems to be DARK GREEN/RED going to L in bulkhead. Changes to yellow at interior and goes straight to switch connector

BYBASS (IGN2) BROWN comes from coil side of ignition resistor and goes to Q of bulkhead, then goes to ignition switch connector BROWN

IGNITION RUN, (IGN1) DARK BLUE comes from switch side of coil resistor, goes to N of bulkhead and to ignition switch.

Does the harness "look" hacked, retaped or repaired? Could be miswired How long did you have the key to "start" when the brown got hot? How hot? "just warm"? or did it seem dangerous?

One warning---- NONE of the above circuits are FUSED. The only protection between the battery and ignition switch is the main fuse link out at the bulkhead, and if you short something, you can do a lot of damage and "meltage" before that link blows.

It would be wise at this point to unclip the sections of the bulkhead connector and inspect and repair them.

Read this MAD article for an overview of the what and why

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
 
mwls73duster360 said:
the wire that is broken is blue with redish or brown stripe going to electronic ignition box that was comming out of socket N in the bulk head connector but if that wire burnt then wouldnt there be a short or something to fix first? idk
Click to expand...

That should be the "ignition run" wire and should be hot (from the key) in "run"

In your car this may go to several places. It supplies

The ignition resistor/ ignition system

the blue field wire at the alternator

the IGN terminal of the regulator

electric choke if used

On some cars, some smog doo--dad, dist. retard solenoid or idle solenoid. You may not have those.
 
Will check things more and fill you in when I get home today I was told by a guy at the parts store to run a test wire from the positive battery to the resistor and jump the starter relay he said that the car should start and won't fry my coil ?
 
You should be able to run a clip lead from the starter relay battery stud to the coil +, jump the relay and it should run FOR A TEST

This will bypass the coil resistor, and you don't want to run it for more than a minute or it will overheat the coil You can tap your hand on the coil and check

Sounds like you are on the right track here finally.

Once again, the thing which is wrong in the posted shop manual, is the labeling of the bulkhead connector on the ENGINE side. If you go by the labeling on the instrument panel diagram, you should be OK.
 
So with it turned to run the red black and blue show power brown gets hot when I try to start it and heats up pretty quick but doesn't show any power from brown when just turned to run
 
You need to chase down where that brown goes. It should not get hot

What kind of ignition?

Mopar ecu with 2 pin ballast?

Mopar ecu with 4 pin ballast?

Other aftermarket?

Does the wiring look hacked/ repaired?

Below is a simplified diagram. If you have a 2 pin ballast, ignore the top left terminal which isn't there, and imagine the bottom left terminal is part of the bottom right terminal

The colors in this diagram may not match yours

The "dashed brown" should. As you can see it only goes from the switch, to the coil+ side of the ballast. You should be able to trace that pretty easily

NOTE something I didn't think about is your coil may be bad/ shorted. You have another coil you can try?

Notice that they call these out as "ignition 1" (run) and "ignition 2" (bypass) which is what Mopar calls them.

(Thanks to whoever originally posted this diagram, it's pretty good)
 

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