NEED HELP ASAP on ignition

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mwls73duster360

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putting in a universal ignition in a 72 duster i need to know what wires are what like the color codes and where to put them
 
What kit are you putting in, are you removing point ? or this
 

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mine quit working so i bought the 10$ cheap universal ignition from the parts store i need to know what wires go where there is a there are four post on my new one three are labeled bat,ign,acc the one in the middle has no label
 
6
ok it looks like this i just need to know what wires to hook up to it my ignition is bad
 
6
ok it looks like this i just need to know what wires to hook up to it my ignition is bad


if your car was electronic igniton it will plug right in, if not your points went bad and they gave you the wrong parts

post a picture of what they sold you
 
it is electronic igniton i have a 360 in it i tested my whole system i know its the ignition switch just dont have time to pull the colum apart right now so im puting this one in only thing is i dont know what the stock wires color code is i just need to know like ( blue wire goes to acc,red to batt...ec)
 
That switch will not work properly for Mopars, because the ignition switch bypass is right in the switch.

I suggest you buy the RIGHT switch for the car, and if you don't have time to change it, disconnect the connector down under the column and just "hang" the new switch there temporarily.

Are you SURE the switch is bad? What makes you think so?
 
i need to make it drivable by tomorrow is the only reason im using this type of switch i plan on it only being temporary and getting the right one but i need to get to school in the morning
 
and i used a wire tester and checked everything in the system the key wont turn the car over or send out any power like its suppose to i had my brother who is a 20 plus year mechanic walk me through testing everything but he dosent know the wiring off the top of his head for this year and i cant find a ignition wiring diagram anywhere
 
You don't know how to jumper the starter relay?

Here are "usable" diagrams from MyMopar

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=28

But you need to make SURE it's using 72 wiring, as 73's have some differences

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72ValiantA.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72ValiantB.JPG

But better yet you can download a complete Plymouth shop manual free right here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309

Link to the 72 shop manual

[ame]http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/1972%20Plymouth%20Chassis%20Serv%20Man.pdf[/ame]

How did you check this? How do you know it's not the starter relay or the neutral safety switch?

Your starter relay should look like this, not necessarily mounted in this attitude

The key to checking operation is the two "push on" terminals.

Download the shop manual I posted and look on page 8-147, I posted part of it below:

(wiring diagram index page 8-144)

In the drawing, find the starter relay, towards bottom left, and look at the BOTTOM RIGHT terminal, wire h2-16 DGN/R. This is dark green, red stripe NOTICE that it goes up and goes into the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR. Clip your meter or lamp to this wire and see if it's hot when twisting the key to "start."

IF YES, Put your meter on the OTHER "push on" relay terminal, with wires hooked up as per normal. It does not matter which wire goes to which "push on" terminal.

Twist the key to start. If the relay does not click, you may have voltage on that terminal. If you do have voltage, it means the NEUTRAL SAFETY switch is not grounding, or if you have a stick, the CLUTCH SAFETY switch is not working.

Which do you have?

Unhook that wire, take a clip lead and ground that relay terminal. Be CERTAIN the car is out of gear and try the key. It should crank. If not, you may have a bad starter relay.

Try jumpering the starter by jumpering across the only two bare terminals (the two largest) on the relay. The starter should crank


Post back with results.

Hacking up your wiring with oddball switches is NOT the way to fix this.

mopar-53-54-55-56-57-58-59-imperial-starter-relay-new_170579962271.jpg
 

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i checked the starter relay like you posted and neutral safety seems fine and the other gets power when i turn the key i may have a bad relay but i did arch it over and it tried to start the thing is im not getting spark and when i grounded the relay were the neutral safety is it still wouldnt turn with the key this all started on the way home yesterday it just died going down the road like i shut the key off and wont start back up
 
o and it is a 72 i thought it was a 73 because the pics they posted when i was going to go buy it they put a 73 grill hood and front bumper on it at some point
 
if it was just the starter relay wouldnt the car start if i turned the key over and jumped the starter
 
Are you saying it does not? (crank?)

How are you jumpering the relay?

Look at the photo I posted. See the two largest terminals? These are the two to jumper. If you jump those, and it won't crank (be CAREFUL that it's out of gear) then the problem has nothing to do with the relay, ignition switch, or the neutral safety, because by jumping the relay you have BYPASSED all of that.

So try that, will it crank? No? What does it do, exactly? Starter click? Once? Multiple clicks?
 
it cranks over fine when i jumped it but im getting no spark off the plug wires so i tested the power to the coil and there is nothing and i jumped it with a screw driver
 
Hotwire 101: Put in N or Park, get a piece of 10G wire with 2 alligator clips on the ends. Clip one side to battery+, other side to coil +, blip carb once.. now jump between BAT and SOL with a screwdriver or wrench until it starts.. blip carb with throttle lever, Jump in and at least get it out of the dudes driveway! Ignition Circa 1967.....youll cook coil pretty fast this way.
 
it cranks over fine when i jumped it but im getting no spark off the plug wires so i tested the power to the coil and there is nothing and i jumped it with a screw driver

You did this with the key in "run" and get no spark?

Try as Pishta suggested to get power to the coil. You may have a bad ballast resistor.

This is troubleshooting 101. Now that you have the shop manual, get into the car, under the column, and access the ignition switch connector. The start, ignition bypass, and run wires are all right there

With the key in "run" do the gauges on the cluster deflect? DO you get an oil light? If so, it's probably trouble in the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR

Below is part of page 8-151, showing the ignition switch column connector

So get your meter or test light.

The top wire, S2-12Y (yellow) START should be hot when you twist the key to "start." It goes out through the bulkhead to the start relay

Third wire down, J2B-12DBL (dark blue) is the IGN1 or "ignition run" wire and should be hot in both "run" or "accessory"

Fourth wire down, J3-12BR (brown) IGN2 or bypass, should ALSO be hot in "start" This goes out to the coil + side of the ballast, and gives you 12V in "start" bypassing the resistor. THIS WIRE is why the switch you showed will not work properly, it has no provision for this circuit.

If all this checks out, the switch is not the problem, but rather a connector problem, or the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR

NOTE I'm sorry to say that the 72 manual has a MISTAKE where the yellow start wire goes through the bulkhead. (Unless I'm going blind) the engine bay diagramshows the start wire going through the bulkhead at "T" I believe this should be "L" and the engine bay shows L going to the horn relay.

Seems to be correct in the instrument panel diagram.
 

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lol i know how to hot wire it im trying to fix it its in my own driveway

Look you're not being very helpful with details so we can figure this out. We have no idea what your abilities or knowledge might be. We're tryin' to help you. Please keep that in mind, and if you have actually checked some of this, detail it so we know where you are.
 
im going to check those in the pic tomorrow i downloaded the manual and printed that page i wasnt trying to be a smart *** or anything sorry if it came off that way i just thought his comment was funny is all i really appreciate the help and will try to be more detailed as for my experience not a ton with wiring but i have been working on mopars since i was very young im 28 now i rebuilt my first motor a 318 when i was 8 in my kitchen just never had to do much wiring
 
ok so tested the wires they all seem to be hot when you said they should how ever upon turning the key over like trying to start it the brown wire got hot quickly and i cant see the dark blue wire comming out of the bulk head on the firewall under the hood
 
i looked at the N socket on the firewall and there is only a small piece of wire sticking out and its bare so im asumming i need to put in a new j2b-12bl blue wire from the bulk head to the electronic ignition box. the wire thats melted is blue with redish or brown stripe comming out of socket N on bulkhead and going to electronic ignition box
 
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