I got a 67' Valiant with the /6 (170) super6 intake. My car won't start unless I spray fluid starter, once the starter fluid burns out, it shuts off. I adjusted the the screws on the carb, making it idle higher. It idles high. If I hit the gas while the car is not in gear, it shuts off. Once the car is running, it runs good, just sounds louder, but once I have to slow down to 15mph or less/ or even stop, it shuts off. I have to hold the gas padel and brake at the same time so it wont shut off. When the car shuts off, the oil light truns on. The oil level is where it needs to be at. I was told be "mechanics" my timming is off, my fuel pump is bad, and possbile the carb is gunk'd up. My car was running fine before I took it to the shop to have the brakes done, but once I picked it up, she was kinda "struggling" once I hit the gas. I had the spark plugs changed, the wiring, and rotary cap. I changed one wire at a time, so I know my plugs are in order, plus I also checked the firing order and the placement of the first spark plug. I really don't want to go and buy new everything, when I could be simple thing.
Need help: engine turns off on it's own
- Thread starter jefroa
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FISHBREATH
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Geeze, it sure seems that the shop buggered something if it ran like crap after they did the brake work. Do you have power brakes? They could have caused a vacuum leak at the diaphragm if they were fiddling with the master cylinder.
Rice Nuker
Let the Coal Roll!
adding to what fishbreath was mentioning. check all vacuum hoses. be sure the carburetor is tight to the intake manifold. be sure the manifold is tight to the head. LIke fishbreath said, the power brake booster may simply have the hose off or damaged.. A
n easy way to identify a vacuum leak.
First of all you should do this while the car is not too heated up so the exhaust manifolds are not all hot as heck. .. I would have a fire extinguisher present for the far off chance you ignite something.. I have done this a hundred times with no issue, so the chance of fire is slim to none..
While the car is running, spray a little mist / burst of wd-40 or spray lube (you can use starter fluid but be careful as it may want to ignite if it hits a hot exhaust manifold)
at various locations such as base of the carb where it mounts to the intake, where the intake mounts to the head, around the vacuum hoses that run round the under hood area.
you want to have the car running while doing this, close to idle as possible and at a steady rpm. If there is a vacuum leak it will suck the atomized spray lube thru it down into the engine which will rev up the engine noticeably, due to the air and "fuel" (spray lube) sucked thru the vacume leak.
n easy way to identify a vacuum leak.
First of all you should do this while the car is not too heated up so the exhaust manifolds are not all hot as heck. .. I would have a fire extinguisher present for the far off chance you ignite something.. I have done this a hundred times with no issue, so the chance of fire is slim to none..
While the car is running, spray a little mist / burst of wd-40 or spray lube (you can use starter fluid but be careful as it may want to ignite if it hits a hot exhaust manifold)
at various locations such as base of the carb where it mounts to the intake, where the intake mounts to the head, around the vacuum hoses that run round the under hood area.
you want to have the car running while doing this, close to idle as possible and at a steady rpm. If there is a vacuum leak it will suck the atomized spray lube thru it down into the engine which will rev up the engine noticeably, due to the air and "fuel" (spray lube) sucked thru the vacume leak.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Ditto, but if you don't have a power brake car, there is probably some crud stopping up the idle circuit in the carb. One way to test is to dribble a little gasoline into the carb while the engine is running and see if it smooths out and the idle comes up. If it does, you either have a vacuum leak or plugged idle circuit. A cleanout and new kit will take care of the carb. Checking for vacuum leaks like descibed above will rule that out. If it drives fine once you're under way, it won't be the fuel pump. The timing wouldn't have changed overnight but it's easy enough to check anyway.
Sorry for not saying it before, the car wasn't lucky to get power brakes. I checked the carb this weekend, I notice it was missing a nut where the carb goes on the manifold. I put one on and tighted up the rest of since it they were all lose. Before I took the car in, it wasn't like that. I know that cause a buddy was showing me how a electric choke works. He adjusted the some likages that were comming lose. I'll check the mainfold if its lose to night. As for the carb, I opened it up it looked pretty clean. I would have my friend check it but he moved to another state.
player1up
Well-Known Member
I've personally had those nuts come loose before, and man the car will run like shizzola when they do. The nuts can go from loose to gone really quick. I found one when I was working on mine, watched it vibrate right off while holding the throttle open with my hand. Why would the brake guys mess with the carb? No reason to do so. Did they mess with it? The world may never know. If you are suspecting them, then you already have a reason or a feeling that you shouldn't trust them....
Maybe this comment..."
I was told be "mechanics" my timming is off, my fuel pump is bad, and possbile the carb is gunk'd up."
If they know what the issue is, you may not want to take it there again. ( because they caused it )
If they don't know what the issue is, you don't want to take it there again. ( because they are guessing ) How do they KNOW the timing is off? Did they check it while they were working on the brakes?
Something sounds odd about this whole thing.
If it wont stay idling then it's most likely a vac leak or plugged idle circuit like Cudamark said. A loose carb will cause a huge vacuum leak
Maybe this comment..."
I was told be "mechanics" my timming is off, my fuel pump is bad, and possbile the carb is gunk'd up."
If they know what the issue is, you may not want to take it there again. ( because they caused it )
If they don't know what the issue is, you don't want to take it there again. ( because they are guessing ) How do they KNOW the timing is off? Did they check it while they were working on the brakes?
Something sounds odd about this whole thing.
If it wont stay idling then it's most likely a vac leak or plugged idle circuit like Cudamark said. A loose carb will cause a huge vacuum leak
How did the car start when you picked it up from having the brakes worked on? Was the brakes done by a "brake shop" or general mechanics? It seems to me a carb issue.
First I would check all the vacuum lines, ensure they are not cracked or loose. Make sure all are connected. then I would check the idle mixture needle screws. maybe clogged with trash. I would pull them out spray WD-40 or the like into the hole. Then insert screws in all the way then back out 2 full turns. That should get you started.
You say the oil light comes on when the car shuts off. I would think because the key is still in the "on" position but there is no oil pressure so the light will come on.
This is just my .02 worth and where I would start. Hope you find out soon and good luck.
First I would check all the vacuum lines, ensure they are not cracked or loose. Make sure all are connected. then I would check the idle mixture needle screws. maybe clogged with trash. I would pull them out spray WD-40 or the like into the hole. Then insert screws in all the way then back out 2 full turns. That should get you started.
You say the oil light comes on when the car shuts off. I would think because the key is still in the "on" position but there is no oil pressure so the light will come on.
This is just my .02 worth and where I would start. Hope you find out soon and good luck.
Maybe they are just trying to generate more work for themselves.
She Devil
Work in Progress
what area are you in? Might be someone on here close to you who'd be willing to take a look
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