Need help lost brakes

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1973dusterkid

1973dusterkid

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Ok so before I pulled the /6 out of my 73 duster the brakes were working great even for 4 wheels manual drums they worked great.I swaped to a 360 and we took the master cyalnder off and it set for a few weeks.We kept the rear drums but replaced them with all new parts.The front was still good so we just adjusted them.Also we replaced the rear with a 8 3/4.Now we blead the brakes twice but still have a soft pedal and poor brakes.What could it be.We dont have any notable leaks.
 
Probably you have air in master cylinder after it sat out disconnected, and needs to be bench bleed. Before you yank the master cylinder out for a bleeding try this little trick:
Pop the cover off master cylinder, and make sure both bowls are topped off with fluid.
Using your hand, slowly pump brake pedal down no more than 1/4th of its travel, and release it. Slowly repeat this genital action while a friend observes the fluid in bowls looking for bubbles. Continue until bubbles no longer can be produced.
Re bleed all wheel cylinders & calipers starting with most distant from MC working to closest. Do not fully depress brake pedal to floor during bleeding procedure, and keep fluid bowls topped off.
 
Glad you all in joyed the lingo!

This is the way I generally talk in person, but I try to keep the written gibberish to single meaning in a family setting… So much for that effort, I did refrain from saying rhythmic.

Nice B & BH toon featuring the national phallic… Good job.
 
wjajr said:
Glad you all in joyed the lingo!

This is the way I generally talk in person, but I try to keep the written gibberish to single meaning in a family setting… So much for that effort, I did refrain from saying rhythmic.

Nice B & BH toon featuring the national phallic… Good job.
Click to expand...

It's OK. I'm from Maine so I understand, LOL.
 
1973dusterkid said:
We try it but did not work
Click to expand...
What was the "it" that you tried?
If a new MC, most come with a plastic "bench bleed" kit inside. You screw those in the output ports and loop the tubes back to the reservoir, fill with fluid, and keep pumping the pedal slowly until no more bubbles come out. Then connect to your vehicle tubing and bleed the wheel cylinders. If just changing the MC, you often don't even need to bleed at the wheels since the brake fluid just sits at the top of the tubes with no space for a bubble.

Anyway, the MC shown would work, it is just a question of what piston diameter you want. Smaller gives an easier pedal, but more travel. The one shown is for drum-drum brakes, which sounds like you might still have, though not clear why you removed the MC.
 
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